Alternator

[Rhodeisland]

I’m new to this can I set up an alternator system without a inverter? I don’t plan on using 110 power

 

[John Frum]

I’m new to this can I set up an alternator system without a inverter? I don’t plan on using 110 power

Yes.

 

[John Frum]

Yes.

I bet you will have more questions.
Fire away.

 

[Rhodeisland]

I plan on using Anderson plugs for the truck trailer connections. The run from truck battery to trailer battery is 25 feet. I was thinking or 02 wire. Will this be enough

 

[John Frum]

I plan on using Anderson plugs for the truck trailer connections. The run from truck battery to trailer battery is 25 feet. I was thinking or 02 wire. Will this be enough

What is the charger amp rating?
This calculator will help https://baymarinesupply.com/bosns_corner_wire_sizes

You do require a dc2dc charger.

 

[Rhodeisland]

I plan on use the Renogy dc to dc unit. Was reviewed on the web site

 

[John Frum]

I plan on use the Renogy dc to dc unit. Was reviewed on the web site

There are several, which one?
Please provide a link.

 

[HRTKD]

Renogy has not been seen favorably lately. Quality control issues and even worse customer service. I would not use Renogy in my system at this time.

 

[MarkF]

I have a similar sized run to my travel trailer and went with 2 AWG marine wire directly from the starter battery, via 60 amp breaker, to a 175 Anderson with a chassis ground at the back of the TV. I went with a victron Orion TR smart charger, non isolated. The charge voltage is spot on to my new 272 CATL camper battery. Just finished it before a monthlong trip we’re on now!
Two issues I’m dealing with.
1. I had to pull the 12v fuse on the 7 pin plug due to back feeding to the TV (2016 Honda Pilot). I noticed an additional battery load (on the BMS app) when going down the road when the charger was off. I Pulled the fuse and it’s good now.
2. The victron auto detect works well but still having issues getting the settings adjusted. It still seems to shit off randomly making it tough to top off between short trips to new camping areas.

Only regret is the victron Orion charger is in a metal tub and can’t view the app going down the road.

BTW, I’ve already had a taste of Renogy customer support and likely never to buy their products again…

 

[Captjwteal]

I have a similar sized run to my travel trailer and went with 2 AWG marine wire directly from the starter battery, via 60 amp breaker, to a 175 Anderson with a chassis ground at the back of the TV. I went with a victron Orion TR smart charger, non isolated. The charge voltage is spot on to my new 272 CATL camper battery. Just finished it before a monthlong trip we’re on now!
Two issues I’m dealing with.
1. I had to pull the 12v fuse on the 7 pin plug due to back feeding to the TV (2016 Honda Pilot). I noticed an additional battery load (on the BMS app) when going down the road when the charger was off. I Pulled the fuse and it’s good now.
2. The victron auto detect works well but still having issues getting the settings adjusted. It still seems to shit off randomly making it tough to top off between short trips to new camping areas.

Only regret is the victron Orion charger is in a metal tub and can’t view the app going down the road.

BTW, I’ve already had a taste of Renogy customer support and likely never to buy their products again…

I was shipped a non isolated 12/12 30 Orion tri smart when I asked the dealer whether I needed isolated or non isolated running from my pickup truck to a bumper pull. When I did my research I was confused and sent said dealer an email asking about connections, he said I should run power from truck battery via my Anderson connector to input side of Orion and negative to camper chassis ground so I’m still confused and u seemed to have it figured out and frankly I don’t want to speak with him anymore as he only confuses me more ?‍. I’m just wondering where my negative from the TV battery though the Anderson goes? Anybody ? All YouTube are isolated it seems, at my Witt’s end and have to travel x country next week.
Thank you

 

[MarkF]

I ran a chassis ground from the rear car frame to the Anderson plug at the bumper, it was about 2 feet long. I used a chassis bolt available at any auto parts store.

I ran the RV’s Anderson plug ground wire to the RV chassis near the Orion unit and drilled another hole in the RV frame.

The Anderson RV ground wire and a second ground wire going to the Orion negative are attached to the frame. I
Used a bolt and nut here.

I used 5/16” bolts in both places. Be sure to Sand the paint to bare metal, have a proper sized lug on the ground wire and use a star washer to make good contact. I applied a bit of conductive grease to all the contact points and tightened down the bolts. I sprayed the bolt and frame with rust converter paint to finish it off.
Be sure to figure the wire size for your tow vehicle based on distance to and from the bumper to your battery.

 

[Captjwteal]

Thank you so much for that MarkF! I appreciate the detail. Can I assume you just ran the positive wire (I’m running Temco #2 welding wire) with a fuse (I’m using a 60 amp fuse) straight from the TV positive cranking battery post? I’ve already made connections and put protective coil wrap to run both positive and negative from TV battery to Anderson but I’ll redo that as you did on the ground side.
Thank you!

 

[MarkF]

you can run both wires from the starter battery to the Anderson if you wish. Just be sure to use the correct gage for the wire run. I got my tinned marine wire, lugs and heat shrink tubing from Battery Cables USA and was good quality cable. They also had 175 Anderson lugs for 7 AWG wire for the positive RV run and was easier to crimp for the smaller wire size. I used split black pvc cable protector and cloth cable tape Tom protect the wire like you and used 60 amp fuse near the starter battery and another 40 fuse near the RV battery (sized to my load needs). . Think you have it covered!