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Aluminum wire house hanging speakers drilled through a 10/3 wire feeding two outlets

k490

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Phoenix, Arizona
4 years ago I was hanging speakers drilling a hole to run the wire up into the attic and hit a power line causing 2 outlets to go out. We didn't use those outlets all that often this year decided to fix it. Tracing it out the cut wire came from a switch was controlling the red wire feeding top plug on one outlet. The black wire connected to the bottom plug. The black wire goes off to the other outlet which is not switched. This wire is 10/3 AL red goes to the switch black wire was bundled with 3 other 12/2 lines one that was hot coming from an outlet and one going down the wall no idea what it connects to. I turned power on with wire nuts removed only that one wire coming from the outlet below the switch activates my power pen detector. I went around on both sides of that wall all outlets work although I haven't checked everything.
The house was built in 1976 mostly 12/2 aluminum wire. I do have some 12/2 copper someone pulled into the attic at one time. Another issue is this house has a flat roof between the attic space and the main panel. This extra wire was pulled to a subpanel in the garage. The garage and master bedroom is all flat roof.
What to do about this I'm trying not to do bunch of drywall work, but I already put by leg through the ceiling on both sides of the wall at this point dry wall has to be repaired. I have a 250 foot roll of 14/2 copper and bag of 10 Alumiconn purple connectors to connect copper to Aluminum. I don't really care about having a switched outlet it's more of a hassle.
Wires leaving the Jbox where the switch was had two 12/2 entering one was hot came from an outlet below it. The other 12/2 leaving the switch in a downward direction was not hot with breaker on, but I can't find anything not getting power all outlets around the area on both sides of the wall are working with ckt breaker on.
Options.
  1. Buy 10/3 copper wire re-run down the wall buy new AL/CO rated switch the old one was a junky dimmer wasn't rated for AL wire. Reconnect in the attic in a metal Jbox with Alumicons screw box to 2x4. Ground box. Restoring the switched light socket.
  2. Cut dry wall open where 10/3 wire goes to first outlet remove 10/3 AL wire completely re run 14/2 all the way from where wall switch was use Alumconns cover with plastic cover plate. Is that legal connecting two outlets that had 12/2 AL between them to a 14/2 copper. I suppose it's possible someone plugs in two 15 amp room heaters on both outlets. The breaker is 15 amps.
  3. Connect 10/3 AL wire going to first outlet to existing 12/2 copper wire in attic goes to a sub-panel breaker.
Is it okay to transition from 10/2 AL to 12/2 co using Alumconns in a box. I know AL wire has lower ratings 12/2 15 amps 10/2 is 20 amps. 12/2 copper is 20 amps. Can I feed two outlets with 14/2 wire as long as breaker has 15 amp breaker. I would like not to have to buy more wire 10/3 or 12/3 wire is expensive. Should I just put the switch back the way it was and run a 10/3 down the wall and back to Jbox to the 10/3 AL wire.

10/3 Romax at home Depot is $94.00 for 15 feet.
 

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Is it okay to transition from 10/2 AL to 12/2 co using Alumconns in a box.
Yes

I would replace the broken section from switch to receptacle. If you don't care about the switch. Just use 12/2 copper. And put a blank plate on the switch box.

Maybe the unknown romex goes to an outside receptacle?
 
Yes

I would replace the broken section from switch to receptacle. If you don't care about the switch. Just use 12/2 copper. And put a blank plate on the switch box.

Maybe the unknown romex goes to an outside receptacle?
12/2 copper from the light switch where ill remove it and cover it with a plate. Then connect in a Jbox up in the attic copper 12/2 into the 10/3 Aluminum wire red and black all connecting to the black on the 12/2. strange they used 10/3 to feed these two outlets when no reason not to use 12/3 then down to 12/2 going to the 2nd outlet. I did find 12/3 on eBay 10 feet for $17.
 
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When my sister bought a house with aluminum wire I added copper pigtails and replaced all the recepticals with new ones. In the process I found 2 outlets with obvious signs of heat damage and one wire had 6 inches of insulation burned off. When checking the breaker panel there were several breaker screws loose, nothing crazy but some needed a 1/2 turn.

The house was from mid 70's and I did this work in the mid 90's. They sold the house after only a few years or I would probably have pulled new wires and replaced the main panel. I can't remember the brand but it was one with the longer skinny breakers.
 
When my sister bought a house with aluminum wire I added copper pigtails and replaced all the recepticals with new ones. In the process I found 2 outlets with obvious signs of heat damage and one wire had 6 inches of insulation burned off. When checking the breaker panel there were several breaker screws loose, nothing crazy but some needed a 1/2 turn.

The house was from mid 70's and I did this work in the mid 90's. They sold the house after only a few years or I would probably have pulled new wires and replaced the main panel. I can't remember the brand but it was one with the longer skinny breakers.
Did you use purple wire nuts only ones rated for pigtail those are expensive. Contractor offered to come in and use a crimping tool he wanted $50 an outlet. I have pigtailed a few outlets where I put in a GFCI outlet others I replaced the outlet with AL rated one never found a lose wire. I think this house built in 1976 has later version of alumium wire I'm told there was two different versions made older 1970 was worse. I had another house that was 1970 the lights did flicker in that house.
 
Yup I did use the ones specifically make for joining copper to alluminum. The only PITA was they are larger than standard and fitting them in the box was hard in some cases. When I did this a pack of 3 nuts was a couple of bucks and AL rated outlets were about $10 each so the pigtails made sense.
 
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Like to demo entire switch Jbox and remove all wire going to it pull a new copper wire up from outlet feeding that switch Jbox. That means more drywall work I suppose if I got better at doing drywalll I could just replace all the Aluminum wire.
 
Did you use purple wire nuts only ones rated for pigtail those are expensive. Contractor offered to come in and use a crimping tool he wanted $50 an outlet. I have pigtailed a few outlets where I put in a GFCI outlet others I replaced the outlet with AL rated one never found a lose wire. I think this house built in 1976 has later version of alumium wire I'm told there was two different versions made older 1970 was worse. I had another house that was 1970 the lights did flicker in that house.
When did builders start making small runs with aluminum wire for residential homes.?
How old is this house it is regular stick built construction? Or prefab?

The aluminum stove wiring in 1970s created a lot of fires as they aged and connections loosened - resistance made heat which caused fires. . Matter of fact aluminum service entrances - hook up use to be recommended for 10 year retorque due to aluminum wire loosening up account corrosions. Dissimilar metals were pita for aviation and there are rules and procedures. .
 
When did builders start making small runs with aluminum wire for residential homes.?
How old is this house it is regular stick built construction? Or prefab?

The aluminum stove wiring in 1970s created a lot of fires as they aged and connections loosened - resistance made heat which caused fires. . Matter of fact aluminum service entrances - hook up use to be recommended for 10 year retorque due to aluminum wire loosening up account corrosions. Dissimilar metals were pita for aviation and there are rules and procedures. .
House was built in 1976 bicentennial year. I remember celebrating Bicentennial in school was 8 years old when my house was built. Builders trying to penny pinch as usual. The house is slump block home with 2 flat roofs and a pitched roof in the middle. Almost every home built here in the 70's has 100% Aluminum wire. It's still used for stoves, AC, driers today I think NEC approves it's use for those appliances.
 
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House was built in 1976 bicentennial year. I remember celebrating Bicentennial in school was 8 years old when my house was built. Builders trying to penny pinch as usual. The house is slump block home with 2 flat roofs and a pitched roof in the middle. Almost every home built here in the 70's has Aluminum wire. It's still used for stoves, AC, driers today I think NEC approves it's use for those appliances.
I know. Sad why mentioned the stove wiring from 1970s. I normally pulled new copper in when redoing flip houses years ago. Most home in my area only used aluminum for electric stoves and service entrances. Not the entire house wiring. There is a coating that is suppose to be used for aluminum wiring at terminals. Wire sizing is different too.

I’ve noticed with some new home depot romex wire that mice are attracted and eating on insulation …. Which is a bad thing. They have most likely changed romex sheathing to a food based vegan type insulation vs old one mice and such left alone. New cars are very attractive to rodents that chew on wiring and rubber plastics - pleather seats.
Mice - rodents use to cause problems with old knob and tube wiring. I am amazed to see it still in operation for real old homes.

Wire is crazy high since 2019 prices. I’d be tempted replace whole run with copper. Be ashamed have mice chew on it.

Good luck.
 
15 feet of 10/3 is $100 at HD that is crazy pricing. Going to buy 250 feet of 12/2 for $100 shorter pay over $2.50 a foot. I found a 250 foot roll of 14/2 in the attic I must have bought years ago probably paid $29 for it.

I haven't had issues with rats we do have roof rats here seen them outside our home. Not sure why they don't get into the attics in the winter summer likely way to hot up there. Even in 85F weather my IR temp gun showed 115F inside of the plywood. Must be up near 200 F in July I need to put some venting maybe solar powered fans.
 
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I've been using this in my car and truck for years to keep the squirrels out of the wiring and timing belt. Had baby squirrels in the timing belt on the truck twice in a row, each time it jumped 2 teeth over as it ground them up. Second time I replaced the covers and RTV'd them in place to seal any cracks at all. The Grandpa guss is stinky and they hate it, but I have to replace it about twice a year. Just a couple of packs in the engine bay does the trick. For the house I get refills of the green poison sticks and toss them to all corners and in the middle. Kills the critters and if they are small enough you don't notice the stink.


Lucky me, I have a near full roll of 10/2 and 14/3 in the garage that I did one run off of. Probably paid $30ish for each.
 
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