k490
Solar Enthusiast
4 years ago I was hanging speakers drilling a hole to run the wire up into the attic and hit a power line causing 2 outlets to go out. We didn't use those outlets all that often this year decided to fix it. Tracing it out the cut wire came from a switch was controlling the red wire feeding top plug on one outlet. The black wire connected to the bottom plug. The black wire goes off to the other outlet which is not switched. This wire is 10/3 AL red goes to the switch black wire was bundled with 3 other 12/2 lines one that was hot coming from an outlet and one going down the wall no idea what it connects to. I turned power on with wire nuts removed only that one wire coming from the outlet below the switch activates my power pen detector. I went around on both sides of that wall all outlets work although I haven't checked everything.
The house was built in 1976 mostly 12/2 aluminum wire. I do have some 12/2 copper someone pulled into the attic at one time. Another issue is this house has a flat roof between the attic space and the main panel. This extra wire was pulled to a subpanel in the garage. The garage and master bedroom is all flat roof.
What to do about this I'm trying not to do bunch of drywall work, but I already put by leg through the ceiling on both sides of the wall at this point dry wall has to be repaired. I have a 250 foot roll of 14/2 copper and bag of 10 Alumiconn purple connectors to connect copper to Aluminum. I don't really care about having a switched outlet it's more of a hassle.
Wires leaving the Jbox where the switch was had two 12/2 entering one was hot came from an outlet below it. The other 12/2 leaving the switch in a downward direction was not hot with breaker on, but I can't find anything not getting power all outlets around the area on both sides of the wall are working with ckt breaker on.
Options.
10/3 Romax at home Depot is $94.00 for 15 feet.
The house was built in 1976 mostly 12/2 aluminum wire. I do have some 12/2 copper someone pulled into the attic at one time. Another issue is this house has a flat roof between the attic space and the main panel. This extra wire was pulled to a subpanel in the garage. The garage and master bedroom is all flat roof.
What to do about this I'm trying not to do bunch of drywall work, but I already put by leg through the ceiling on both sides of the wall at this point dry wall has to be repaired. I have a 250 foot roll of 14/2 copper and bag of 10 Alumiconn purple connectors to connect copper to Aluminum. I don't really care about having a switched outlet it's more of a hassle.
Wires leaving the Jbox where the switch was had two 12/2 entering one was hot came from an outlet below it. The other 12/2 leaving the switch in a downward direction was not hot with breaker on, but I can't find anything not getting power all outlets around the area on both sides of the wall are working with ckt breaker on.
Options.
- Buy 10/3 copper wire re-run down the wall buy new AL/CO rated switch the old one was a junky dimmer wasn't rated for AL wire. Reconnect in the attic in a metal Jbox with Alumicons screw box to 2x4. Ground box. Restoring the switched light socket.
- Cut dry wall open where 10/3 wire goes to first outlet remove 10/3 AL wire completely re run 14/2 all the way from where wall switch was use Alumconns cover with plastic cover plate. Is that legal connecting two outlets that had 12/2 AL between them to a 14/2 copper. I suppose it's possible someone plugs in two 15 amp room heaters on both outlets. The breaker is 15 amps.
- Connect 10/3 AL wire going to first outlet to existing 12/2 copper wire in attic goes to a sub-panel breaker.
10/3 Romax at home Depot is $94.00 for 15 feet.