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diy solar

An actual 600A 48V+ disconnect switch

timselectric said:
This is not a breaker. It doesn't provide OCP or short protection. It is only a disconnect for isolation.
Basically, a giant on/off switch.
But the 600a rating is what I needed.
Click to expand...
Yes, I shouldn't have said compare lol.

I'm curious to see how you mount it. Did it come with an enclosure or anything?
 
Lt.Dan said:
I'm curious to see how you mount it. Did it come with an enclosure or anything?
Click to expand...
no
Just a flange with two holes.
I did find a metal bracket on another site. But I will make my own. Just need to drill a whole and mount it in it. I will probably build a metal enclosure for it.
 
This is good for nothing.

Not UL listed.

No claims for AC power or DC power, just amps and volts.
Not to be used under a load.
No claims to prevent ARCing.

I use a 600 Volt DC disconnect switch, UL listed, 3 pole, 30 amps and works under load and safe to prevent arcing.

I suggest if you want a really excellent piece of equipment that you look for Schneider, Eaton, Seimens, Square D, etc. They make these switched products both indoor and outdoor rated, with single to multiple poles, large choice of amperages and fused and unfused. They meet all codes and they pretty much last forever. There are many places online that sell for large discounts off of retail too.
 
glandpuck said:
I suggest if you want a really excellent piece of equipment that you look for Schneider, Eaton, Seimens, Square D, etc. They make these switched products both indoor and outdoor rated, with single to multiple poles, large choice of amperages and fused and unfused. They meet all codes and they pretty much last forever. There are many places online that sell for large discounts off of retail too.
Click to expand...

Link one.
 

Most of the applications they show wouldn't be subject to NEC or UL.
It is a component without enclosure; I supposed a company building a larger assembly could get UL listing.

"1 The HVBD is designed to isolate at voltages up to 1500VDC. The HVBD is not intended for make/break switching above 100V."

"Designed for OSHA compliant lockout/tagout (LOTO)" perhaps implies it ought to be a UL listed isolator. If used on the grid, don't know what standards apply for vehicles.
 
glandpuck said:
if you want to pay me as a consultant, send a PM if Will P allows.
Click to expand...

You have yet to demonstrate you have anything worth paying for. You didn't even know the difference between UL9540A and UL1741 sending people off on fool's errands based on your recommendation. You're welcome. That was a freebie. No charge.

glandpuck said:
This is my switch: Square D VHU361RBGL 3P 30A Sfty Switch
Click to expand...

Fail. This is only a 30A switch. The goal of this thread is for a battery switch.

glandpuck said:
No claims for AC power or DC power, just amps and volts.
Click to expand...

Per you, there is also no AC or DC power rating for this switch.

Why are you here again? You are rarely actually helpful.
 
Skypower said:
That’s a nice looking switch. Just kinda wondering how does the action feel. Do you think the contacts move in time with the handle or does it have a “snappy” action like the contacts are in a hurry to change state.
Click to expand...
It feels solid. I believe that they move with the handle.
The handle has a sprung detent feel. But definitely not snap action contacts.
I don't think that I would operate it under heavy load.
It is hermetically sealed. So I don't think that it would support an arc for very long.
I just wanted a way to isolate the battery banks from each other and the rest of the system. For maintenance and testing.
And it needed to handle a lot of continuous amps.
 
Would I need a switch like this with SOK rack batteries?

I was planning on simply turning them off with the circuit breaker.

bad plan?
 
I forgot to mention that it's a double make/break switch. So, an arc would have to jump two gaps. In order to sustain itself. Which means that it's twice as unlikely.
 
glandpuck said:
This is good for nothing.

Not UL listed.

No claims for AC power or DC power, just amps and volts.
Not to be used under a load.
No claims to prevent ARCing.

I use a 600 Volt DC disconnect switch, UL listed, 3 pole, 30 amps and works under load and safe to prevent arcing.

I suggest if you want a really excellent piece of equipment that you look for Schneider, Eaton, Seimens, Square D, etc. They make these switched products both indoor and outdoor rated, with single to multiple poles, large choice of amperages and fused and unfused. They meet all codes and they pretty much last forever. There are many places online that sell for large discounts off of retail too.
Click to expand...
"Its precise arc shutdown offers 100% rated current breaking performance."
 
yabert said:
Based on this on the spec sheet I would say yes, but there isn't any breaking capability graph.
''The HVBD is not intended for make/break switching above 100V''
Click to expand...
Thanks for taking the time, much appreciated.

Does that mean that for all intent and purposes as a battery switch on a 48V system, both the HVBD and HBD series have the same value?

I ask because I found an HBD 200A for less than 100$. Although I'm still not entirely sure that it would be a better choice over a DC circuit breaker as a battery isolator given the price difference.
 
I have breakers for everything else.
I chose this switch for my 600a wiring.
A DC breaker would have been extremely expensive.
 
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