So I have been thinking about this idea for a while and many posts from @fafrd about GTIL's (grid tied inverter with limiter) have helped quite a bit. I still have a few questions for the group.
First, some background about my system. I have pulled a number of circuits from my main panel over to a critical loads subpanel and have that successfully running and self sufficient on solar power with 300Ah of 48V nominal LiFePO4. I now find I have a surplus of solar power at times and do not wish to move more circuits from the main panel to the CL subpanel.
To utilize the surplus production I have at times I plan to add a GTIL (powered from my batteries) to one leg of my 200 Amp main panel (US split phase) and perhaps add another to the other leg if this works out. I will use the common 1000W units found on Amazon and elsewhere, the model is SUN-1000GTIL2-M .
So, I'm aware of all the problems (early death) when running these flat out. I believe that I can program these to only run at 500W or perhaps as much as 700W (50-70% of rated power) . I hope that will greatly extend the life of the unit.
First question, can someone with experience on the Y&H 1000W GTIL confirm this limitation can be done in software?
Of course the limiting CT should keep the production below that level if that leg of my service consumption is below 500W or 700W at any time to prevent any export.
Second, these come in two variants. One has an operating range of 22-60V and the other has an operating range of 45-90V. My plan is to run these off my battery in the 52-56V range and not any lower. I hope this can be set in the unit but if not I will manually shut them off when I'm below 52V.
Second question, won't the 22-60V unit run more efficiently when fed with 52-56V as opposed to the 45-90V unit ?
Last question which is oddly specific and comes from this Amazon review:
Works good until it doesn’t.... when it stops working the way it should the tech support was determined to help... they replied every day.... the language barrier Got in they way to getting answers but I eventually got the info I needed and replace c1 capacitor 100nf smd that solved noise in the wavelength and the inverter raising and lowering wattage It was producing.... push pull effect..... less than 10 minute fix now it works good again.... So yea they will work with you to fix any problem.
IF anyone has had a failure, have you tried replacing C1 ?
Thanks in advance for any input.
First, some background about my system. I have pulled a number of circuits from my main panel over to a critical loads subpanel and have that successfully running and self sufficient on solar power with 300Ah of 48V nominal LiFePO4. I now find I have a surplus of solar power at times and do not wish to move more circuits from the main panel to the CL subpanel.
To utilize the surplus production I have at times I plan to add a GTIL (powered from my batteries) to one leg of my 200 Amp main panel (US split phase) and perhaps add another to the other leg if this works out. I will use the common 1000W units found on Amazon and elsewhere, the model is SUN-1000GTIL2-M .
So, I'm aware of all the problems (early death) when running these flat out. I believe that I can program these to only run at 500W or perhaps as much as 700W (50-70% of rated power) . I hope that will greatly extend the life of the unit.
First question, can someone with experience on the Y&H 1000W GTIL confirm this limitation can be done in software?
Of course the limiting CT should keep the production below that level if that leg of my service consumption is below 500W or 700W at any time to prevent any export.
Second, these come in two variants. One has an operating range of 22-60V and the other has an operating range of 45-90V. My plan is to run these off my battery in the 52-56V range and not any lower. I hope this can be set in the unit but if not I will manually shut them off when I'm below 52V.
Second question, won't the 22-60V unit run more efficiently when fed with 52-56V as opposed to the 45-90V unit ?
Last question which is oddly specific and comes from this Amazon review:
Works good until it doesn’t.... when it stops working the way it should the tech support was determined to help... they replied every day.... the language barrier Got in they way to getting answers but I eventually got the info I needed and replace c1 capacitor 100nf smd that solved noise in the wavelength and the inverter raising and lowering wattage It was producing.... push pull effect..... less than 10 minute fix now it works good again.... So yea they will work with you to fix any problem.
IF anyone has had a failure, have you tried replacing C1 ?
Thanks in advance for any input.
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