diy solar

diy solar

Budget Japanese campervan lifepo set up questions

BongoPete

New Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Portland
Hi,

Longtime lurker first time poster. I think I am about ready to pull the trigger on buying some pieces for my new mini camper.

The goal is to be able to power a few cell phone chargers, some LED lights, power blinds that are built in to the vehicle, electronics for a diesel heater, and the big one, a single induction hot plate (have not purchased, will probably get a 1500w max, but maybe just 1300w). I also have a powered cooler but it has it's own battery and should be able to be independent or close too.

Obviously, the induction burner is the big draw, and without it I could probably get buy with a 50ah battery and no inverter. I've read and seen mixed things re feasibility of induction cooktops on a set up like this but I think for my usage it should be fine. I won't be cooking gourmet meals or using it for an hour at full power, more like a few minutes to boil water or heat up soup. Maybe a tad longer some meals. I don't think I need shore power connection for now.

My planned purchases:
2 x 100ah mini lifepos (powerqueen/litime)- ~$560 from ebay I have also debated DIY building a 270ah battery but for the size of my van I think the pouch batteries make the most sense.
Renogy DCC50S DC-DC charger with MPPT- ~$230
TBD 2000w pure sine inverter -$? (This might not be enough with the induction but I think I will give it a shot first).
Eventually, adding a single solar panel, size TBD -$?

The Renogy claims it only charges lifepo above 32* so I think that should make up for lack of low temp cutoff in the batteries?
Renogy has an add on deal for their BT2 bluetooth adapter and their Renogy One monitor. I think this would only provide me charging data and nothing about what's in the batteries right? I should get a shunt for that? Do I only need one shunt if I have two batteries in parallel? Perhaps it would be best to get the BT2 for the DC-DC without the extra Renogy One and then a shunt? Advise for budget shunts is appreciated.

Obviously I will need other bits and bobs. Busbars and fuses and switches etc. But does the gist of the plan make sense or am I missing something crucial?

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20230618_002023219.jpg
    PXL_20230618_002023219.jpg
    448.2 KB · Views: 7
TBD 2000w pure sine inverter -$? (This might not be enough with the induction but I think I will give it a shot first).
In my electric camper van, I start 1500W induction cooktop with a 1000W inverter. I can only use the 4 lower settings out of 10, but it work.
No doubt you will be able to use similar cooktop with a 2000W inverter.
 
In my electric camper van, I start 1500W induction cooktop with a 1000W inverter. I can only use the 4 lower settings out of 10, but it work.
No doubt you will be able to use similar cooktop with a 2000W inverter.
That's great to hear. I figured modifying my usage could make up for some power constraints.
 
Back
Top