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Dual PowerQueen Budget Cabin Build

Kornbread

Solar Addict
Joined
Sep 16, 2021
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Started this project a couple years ago. Pops had a tiny Harbor Freight solar panel plugged directly into an old tractor battery to supply lighting for his hunting cabin, which is quite literally, his home away from home. He loves the outdoors!

It began with almost a full pallet of 255w Trina panels purchased for my shop system, and since shipping is so darn expensive, purchased 4 more Mitsubishi 255w panels to fill out the pallet. The plan was to eventually use them for Pop's cabin.

The first system was a true bargain basement build. Through online research and reviews, the first SCC was a 30amp Weize, ~$80, which turns out to be sourced from SRNE. The 100v max mppt allowed for the use of 2 Mits 255w panels in series with their voc of ~38v. giving a bit of cold weather safety margin. With the Mits 255w. the Weize's rated 400watts max pv into 12v is slightly overpaneled, but these panels are used and probably not yielding 100% rated capacity. The panels wired in series allowed us to use 12gauge wire for the ~50' home run. Keep in mind, this is pretty far out in the woods, but we did run the pv lines in conduit, but used regular schedule 40 water line because of the price difference vs the grey pvc conduit. We used a heat gun to make shallow bends in the pvc where needed. These 2 steps saved us decent coin without any real drawbacks other than more time consumed heating/bending pipe. A single WalMart Neverstart deep cycle marine battery replaced the old tractor battery. After roughly a year, the single battery was replace with a home made battery box and 2 new WalMart Neverstart deep cycles.

This combo performed flawlessly. The cabin could set empty for weeks but when needed, everything just worked.



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Fast forward to 23'. Still 2 Mits panels laying around the house that need a home and the cabin's propane heat (carbon monoxide and all that ... we had a friend and his son pass away because of a faulty heater) has always been concerning to me ... it sure would be nice, and safer, to go electric heat, sans generator of course.

Since the first SRNE had proven itself reliable and carried an economical price, a bit of research revealed that this Power Queen was also SRNE sourced. It's only 30amps, but 2 units gets you 60amps and a lower unit price,~$67 out the door.
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If you want bluetooth, the bt-1/PowerQueen can be purchased as a combo, or separately. The app isn't all that great but it works. There is a qr code in the manual for the app. The Renogy app also works.

Din rail boxes came from Amazon. Both boxes, 2 Chtaxi 16amp breakers for pv, 2 Chtaxi 40amp breakers for battery output, and wire glands were ~$140.
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Wire and lugs came from Temco. Good prices, and so far, decent quality. Not sure on the cost of all the cable and lugs as I have a lot of it laying around, but it does get expensive, and if you are on a tight budget, do not forget to factor in the copper.
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New DIY battery box with 4 new Neverstarts. Put the other older batteries in the boat. MRBF fuses $10, holders $8, and covers $2, from Mouser. Eaton rates the MRBF interrupt rating to 10,000amps @14v. Anderson plug $26. With the Anderson plug and battery selector switch/precharge circuit, the inverter can easily be removed when not in use and locked inside.

One the AC side; Jupiter 2000w pure sine wave inverter, open box $170. Heavy duty marine battery selector switch $25 for inverter power on/off/precharge. The precharge circuit is diy and built into the selector switch. It consists of a couple 20ohm 10watt sandcast resistors and a red diode, $2.
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This system has been up and running 4 months with no issues other than the Jupiter inverter not being able to start a skillsaw. Who knew a common hand tool would have such a high startup current.

Due to a job requiring major overtime, yesterday was the first cold bright sunny day we were able to stress test the system. A 1500w electric heater ran for several hours while fixing a pot of home made chili. On 1500w, ~130amps from the battery, the PowerQueens didn't stand a chance of keeping pace, but with the heater on low, ~57amps from battery, they managed to maintain and trickle a charge to the battery. The app reported 29.99amps, but a YouTube reviewer posted his 30amp PowerQueen reported 30amps but when actually measured, would not quite achieve its rated capacity. With the heater on high, the pair of PowerQueens output their rated capacity for several hours. 59.97amps to 60.13amps output confirmed with an Ames amp probe. Although the battery reports 37*, the actual outside temp was 28* and since these units are passively cooled, it may be possible they 'might' limit output in higher ambient temps. Both units reported a warning, 'solar panel excessive power', oddly the other unit reported 'solar power super power'.

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This is a very detailed posting and thorough; props to you on that!

I don't have much knowledge on the PowerQueen products aside from their batteries, but I do see a striking resemblance with the Renogy Rover series... as many others too. The only possibility I could think of is one controller is reading a different voltage and thinks it's being over-powered by the panels. I had a very similar thing with two identical PWM controllers on my house battery (also PowerQueen); throughout the day, one of the controllers will fluctuate their power by dropping down to 0.1A, then slowly rising back up. I've got no official answer why that happened, but my guess would be the above.
 
Can you do the maths for us. How much you pay for all marerials for how many kilowatts you are bringing in and max you can take out?

Nice system on a budget.
 
Can you do the maths for us. How much you pay for all marerials for how many kilowatts you are bringing in and max you can take out?

Nice system on a budget.
Quick and dirty from memory. May have forgot something and numbers are ballpark.

Mitts 255w panels, bought a pallet used. 4@~$70=~$280
MPPT chargers, eBay- 2@$70=$140
Din breakers and enclosures, Amazon - ~$140
LeadAcid WalMart Neverstart- 4@$100=~$400
Lumber for solar panel stands- mostly repurposed $50
Wire, lugs, fuses- cost shared among several projects, probably- ~$200
Jupiter 2000w pure sine inverter, eBay open box- $170
Heavy duty switch/precharge for inverter- $25

I'd imagine some things have been forgotten, but somewhere around $1400. Could have bought a nice gas generator and had money left over.
Anyhow, requires no gas, just sunshine. We tested them on a cold day and they output just a wink above their rated power of 425w each. I would expect them to maintain that until their temps rise and they scale back production. If we can find a small inverter style AC unit, we may test daily max production this summer, otherwise, I could not tell you what that number would be.
 
okay so:
  • 1020 watts solar
  • 400 amp hours of lead acid batteries (200 usable with lead acid?)
  • 2000 watts output
for $1,400 USD, all in.

My math right?

Asking because so far I have about $1000 invested, no inverter, one 200 AH LiFePO4, and 300 watts solar is all.
 
I'd imagine there's stuff I forgot but yeah, guess that sounds about right. Inverter was open box, panels were used and part of a larger order, first mppt was $80 but got a discount on the others $65, breakers and enclosures off Amazon, lumber was mostly repurposed from a porch, and I always have copper wire/lugs/crimper laying around from various projects.

Things I would do different. Larger inverter would be nice. Didn't know a skillsaw had such a high lra but most other hand tools work fine with the 2000w inverter. Since there can be large periods of time between visits to the remote cabin, there needs to be a better way to secure everything.

With cell prices falling so low, I almost went LiFePo4 but the lead acids are a no-brainer with no temperature worries.
 
I appreciate that. Yes, batteries and solar panels seem to be lower cost right now. I had lead acid for 2 weeks. Didn't love it so returned it. I've gotten more wattage out of the LiFePO4 in a week than I did in 3 days with lead acid, and they weigh less. Not sure what the ROI is, but even the battery I bought was $950 a year ago, $600 new now, and I paid $400 for open box used. So far super happy. I think if it dies - it may, it is a CHINS battery - I will go DIY battery next and do a huge setup. This is just to learn on before going full off grid house.
 
If going LiFeP04, it would have been a diy pack with insulated box and heat as winter temps often stay below freezing. Generally speaking, the more complicated the more possibilities for something to go wrong and this is dad's system, so it has to be super simple as I get very little time off work to do anything other than ... work. Very little time to run up to the cabin and check app settings and adjust things. Lead-acid battery care, he's had that down for decades.

Speaking of time. Have another pole mount, two new nhx inverters, and all the wiring/configuration changes to finish on this next home upgrade. No idea when it will all get finished as it feels like all I ever do is work, eat, sleep, work, rinse, repeat. Getting pretty burned out.

I would say to keep an eye on wire/wireing and fuses. I feel that part of the equation is a problem area for many as it takes a lot of copper to move any amount of wattage when working with a 12v bank.
 
I have some hefty lugs already purchased. Fuses, too. Copper wire is last - going to layout what I have already, maybe get the inverter first to mock up everything, then cut wire to length at West Marine and crimp at home. That's the plan anyway. Think they have a crimper you can use for free, too. Oh I'd like to have my inverter, too, first. All the stuff you would put on a panel in place prior to buying more panels or more batteries or the wire. Buying the wire is a low priority until I get the SCC and the Inverter I want. Just like you, very burnt out.
 
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