how did you get it out of safety mode?lv5048 is awesome. That is a great combo Jason. The only issue I have ever had was with the lv5047 low voltage cut off settings. If your bms trips low voltage before your lv5048, it may go into safety mode. Mine was stuck in safety mode for over a week!! So make sure you make these settings perfect and test it.
You need to make sure that low voltage cutoff for the lv5048 is at like 46-48v, and the cut off for your bms is at 44 volts or lower.
Besides that, its dead simple. Big heavy and awesome inverter.
String Inverters $2,480.00 Cables $117.81 Parts $32.29 Parts $89.55 Shelf $89.99 8 BYD Batteries $3,690.00 BMSes $396.00 12 Panels, eBay $999.96 Solar Panel system $7,895.60 w/Batteries
I emailed Ian and went through the settings together. There's a way to reset it. I think Ian mentioned someone else having that problem before. So make sure the cut off voltage is a bit high. I love putting mine at 48v to be on safe sidehow did you get it out of safety mode?
i have the lv5048 as well,thanks to your shed video.
48v-will do,thanks.I emailed Ian and went through the settings together. There's a way to reset it. I think Ian mentioned someone else having that problem before. So make sure the cut off voltage is a bit high. I love putting mine at 48v to be on safe side
~800ish, physical 880ah, and yes ~48v.What?! Wait... How many Ah is your battery pack? And is 48v right?
~800ish, physical 880ah, and yes ~48v.
Used BYD packs pulled from utility provider.How did you pulled that off? I'm getting quotes of around 4000 EUR for 16x200Ah CALB/WINSTON cells and over 4200 for the LG RESU 48v 126Ah or the BYD L7.0 48v (7.0kWh ~ around 145Ah).
800Ah are utopic for me...
I think I need to switch neutral as well, requiring a third pole, (although a two pole would possibly work but something tells me not to permanently combine the neutrals from two different sources as energy on the neutral would be present on both current generation sources even though one will always be disconnected), and I need 100 amps not 32 and the mechanics of the switch housing doesn't seem to offer a lot of protection from shock.It's called a Knife Switch.
(On Ebay)
It does a few things.
I have it hooked up backward. Usually, one input is sent to one output or the other output.
- It changes the input to output
- completely isolates one circuit from the other (It is impossible to have both connected at the same time)
I use it to connect my entire loads panel to the output AND/OR the input of the inverter.
It's a caveman approach to an automatic transfer switch for a generator.
Every time I throw the switch I think of this
But seriously, actually this
How it is normally used:
The term "Dielectric" refers to insulation or resistance to electrical flow. "Conductive" grease such as nolox or a copper based paste is better for insulating connectors against oxidization/corrosion while not accidentally becoming an insulation between electrical connections and contacts.Anyone use dielectric grease on the battery terminal to connect whatever connector you have used?
Do we need to use dielectric grease on the terminal or anywhere else in the connection?