That makes sense to me as it would only be off when doing a repair. It will be on almost all of the time...tks
Can you offer advice on an expandable RV setup?
- Thread starter AllByteNoBark
- Start date
Battery -> Fuse -> Switch
With the switch in the OFF position, there is no current flowing through the fuse and you can remove/install it without any sparks.
With the switch in the OFF position, there is no current flowing through the fuse and you can remove/install it without any sparks.
ok..but why after? what is the technical reason...
If you look at this, the switch is after the battery.
What components am I missing? Time crunch solar install.
I was sold the Victron components as "everything I would need" to get set up. Along with 600w of panels (200w x 3 Bouge RV) and 300 mAh LifePO (1 x 300 Ampre time). I'm following the wiring diagram above except no DC/DC circuit as its an RV and not a camper van. I have all the wiring, fuses...
diysolarforum.com
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John Frum
Tell me your problems
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- 15,233
Your MP2 has two dc positive studs and two dc negative studs
As you very sensibly decided to use a single 4/0 awg wire, I suggest you use the spares studs as a busbar.
You can connect the other busbars to the mp2.
That way you don't need a pre-charge resistor for the mp2.
You can prime the cap in the mp2 using the dc2dc charger.
As you very sensibly decided to use a single 4/0 awg wire, I suggest you use the spares studs as a busbar.
You can connect the other busbars to the mp2.
That way you don't need a pre-charge resistor for the mp2.
You can prime the cap in the mp2 using the dc2dc charger.
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ok..but why after? what is the technical reason...
If you look at this, the switch is after the battery.
What components am I missing? Time crunch solar install.
I was sold the Victron components as "everything I would need" to get set up. Along with 600w of panels (200w x 3 Bouge RV) and 300 mAh LifePO (1 x 300 Ampre time). I'm following the wiring diagram above except no DC/DC circuit as its an RV and not a camper van. I have all the wiring, fuses...
The simple answer is that it's not right in that diagram. The cable from the battery to the switch is not protected. If any cable in the system is going to see a lot of current, it's that one.
Check out this diagram from Victron.
ok..thank you, I guess that makes the most sense, that if there is a problem, you want the fuse to "take the hit" and not the switch
Most of us are using over current protection on both sides. I have a Class T fuse between the battery and the switch and MEGA fuses between the common bus bar and the Multiplus.
My two batteries are rated for 120 amps, each based on what the BMS is capable of. So a total of 240 amps. My Class T fuse is only 225 amps. It's a bit undersized given what the BMS can do. However, I don't have enough loads to draw even 200 amps, which means there is enough headroom. I should be using a larger Class T fuse. If it ever blows I'll bump up to a larger one.
Thank you, I'm in the middle of installing a 2000W inverter, 2 x 105 Ah battery and a transfer switch in a small travel trailer. I have a 250 amp Class T. This all becomes confusing as there are so many set ups I see while trying to follow these threads. Sorry to hijack this thread and thank you for the help.
AllByteNoBark
New Member
Ok, another question. The T fuse recommended was at this link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00153CXKQ) but is not available, did some searching and it seems sold out everywhere. Saw some info that not all fuses are created equal. Any recommendations for a replacement for that fuse?
Zwy
Solar Wizard
If you turn the switch off when it is after the fuse, there wouldn't be a load anyway. Keep fuses as close to power source as you can.
and
Blue Sea is quality equipment.
AllByteNoBark
New Member
Thanks! Just what I was needing.
12VoltInstalls
life passes by too quickly to not live in freedom
RoadTurtle
Solar Enthusiast
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- Mar 30, 2022
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- 366
I'm so easily confused
I've actually seen it written both ways.Alternating Current is two words
Air Conditioning is two words.
So is AC correct or is A/C correct? LOL
I'm so easily confused
Alternating Current is two words
Air Conditioning is two words.
So is AC correct or is A/C correct? LOL
I usually just spell it all the way out as air conditioning, so as to avoid any confusion.
Pappion
Retired Engineer Tech
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- Nov 26, 2020
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- 551
That wiring might be the typical 10 gauge solar cable. Should be fine for 10 Amp. Some large panels have 10A output, 5.5A - 8A for others, double for parallel. Think Power Loss W= Current * Current * Ohms. 25ft run of 10gauge, is 50ft round trip, is 0.05 ohms. So the loss at 10A would be 5W.
12VoltInstalls
life passes by too quickly to not live in freedom
It’s 120VAC not 120VA/C
AC is sortofa acronym.
A technical colloquialism.
A/C is the accepted nomenclature for air conditioning.
Porsche is said two ways.
Jaguar is said two or three ways.
Haverhill is said mostly two ways.
Barre is said two ways.
Ariana is said several ways.
Is paraffin wax? Or kerosene?
Of course these days A/C could be identifying as electricity. That’s a bit shocking, current capacity aside.
Watt you do could be amping up a controversy. Ohm I gawd I better not open that circuit. I’ve hertz that can short circuit things. Need to stay grounded.
Snicker, snicker.
