Critique my Build Plan, is it worth doing busbar's for the batteries or should I need to worry about it?

[Tekvektor]

i.e. the fastest way to get a correct answer on the internet is to post a wrong conclusion

here is the basis of my system. Its being built to go into a 2005 Ford E350 Superduty with and existing factory Dual Batter system with a 3 way, 1, 2, all or off switch for the battery system.

2 x 200w BougeRV Yuma CIGS Panels (Open Circuit 31.5w) which will be installed on top of a Wasatch Overland E350 High Top.
Feeding into a Renogy DCC50S 50A Batter Charger w/MPPT which is the common Negative point for all equipment.
4 x 100w Oupes Foldable Panels connected via Paralell cables and anderson connectors to a Renogy Rover 40A MPPT
Connected to 4 Lomrige LiFePO4 12 Volt 200Ah 100A Max Discharge Batteries (Initially Though Paralell but nearly 300amps of draw means thats not real feasible)
Also connected to the batteries (not sure if should be directly to the batteries or connected to the DCC5WS

The attached power plan shows how I *PLAN* to connect it all together and where I think I need the appropriate fuses. Is there anything that jumps out as wrong? Rather than Running them in Paralell would a busbar be a better option? Series Paralell? HALP.

Power Calculations for the Build

Power Calculation	Dialy		Watts	Hours/Day		Watts Used	Amp-Hours
Roof Fan								2.4​
A/C			750​	10​		7500​		625​
UM790 Pro			85​	8​		680​		56.66666667​
Inverter			30​	24​		720​		60​
Controller			1.2​	24​		28.8​		2.4​
Refrigerator			8.3​	24​		199.2​		16.6​
Induction Cook Top			1800​	0.5​		900​		75​
18.5in 100hz monitor			5​	6​		30​		2.5​
GL.iNet GL-SFT1200 Access Point			6​	24​		144​		12​
Ceiling Lights								1.3​
Garage lights								1.3​
		Total	2685.5​				Total	855.1666667​
Maximum Amp Draw (Amps) = (3000 Watts ÷ Inverter’s Efficiency (%)) ÷ Lowest Battery Voltage (V)	272 Max Amps

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Looks like you divided Wh by 12V instead of 12.8V, so you're closer to 800Ah.

Also helps to total the Wh as that makes PV calculations easier.

At 10.2kWh/day, your 400W of roof solar won't contribute much. In perfect summer conditions, 2kWh/day (perfect angle, perfect tilt). Flat on a rooftop? Closer to 1.5kWh. In Winter? Maybe 0.5kWh, but at least you won't need A/C then. Your foldable panels, assuming you tilt and re-orient them a few times throughout the day will contribute notably more in most conditions... still well short of your daily need.

One fuse per circuit sufficient to protect the wire rating * 1.25 located as close as practical to the source.

Consult link #5 in my signature for everything wiring related and especially about how batteries are paralleled. Your diagram does not give a clear indication of how your main connections are made.

 

[pvgirl]

You'll want bigger wire going to the Inverter like 2 x 3/0 and 400 amp fuse from where the batteries are combined.

 

[BWilliamson]

Did you use the Lomrige LiFePO4 12 Volt 200Ah batteries? If so, how have they held up? - Thanks

 

[OffGridForGood]

You'll want bigger wire going to the Inverter like 2 x 3/0 and 400 amp fuse from where the batteries are combined.

AND! your in luck, cause someone posted earlier today they have two 400A Class T for sale ($40 each!) ie a Steal!