diy solar

diy solar

Dielectric grease with LFP anyone?

Standard dielectric grease in not intended for out types of application. No-A-Lox and similar products as mentioned above is what is used in this sector. Lesson have been learned & shared, yet certain things are like zombies and come back...
I’d be interested hearing more about his as well. I only recall tests where dielectric grease did not increase resistance. It simply keeps oxygen out of the joint thereby preventing oxidation and preserving conductivity.
 
I have used Silicone grease (3M) and that works fine, but its expensive. I mostly use that for aluminum to copper/tin plated copper electrical junctions.
Fluid Film works well in a marine environment as well. Put it on and it prevents corrosion. I just removed and replaced a tractor battery and coated the inside of the battery box with the stuff along with the terminals. It will last for years like that and is a fraction of the cost of Silicone grease. There is no way I would coat the inside of the battery box with silicone grease! I think a small bottle of the 3M stuff is $15-20.
The downside of Fluid Film is that if it is exposed to the sun, it eventually bakes off/evaporates. In in the shade, it never seems to go away.
Still, Fluid Film is super handy stuff.
 
Back when I was in the Navy we used a ultra thin contact preservative. Basically it displaced moisture and formed a film on the contacts in cannon plugs. This way when we removed gear from the airplane you give the electrical connectors a quick spray. Then when plugging things back in the friction would break the film and good contact was made.

I never did find a civilian product that was the same. Looking now the closest I find is a product called corrosionX. They make it in a variety of thickness and durability.

Now, for the actual contact point of our electrical connections I use the no-ox-id special. There is a white paper on the conductive properties of carbon nano tubes in such products. It talks about tunneling of the current when the proper torque is applied.
 
@Skypower @AntronX @Bob B @42OhmsPA or anyone that knows...

Where should we apply No-Ox-ID A special?
I'm seeing conflicting information.

Should it be applied to:
1. every location there is a stud and ring terminal?
2. threads?
3. the actual contact surfaces, or just the outer surfaces of the connectors after the ring terminal has been bolted to the studs?
My Opinion for what its worth.

Contact surfaces of the ring terminal/bussbar/the cell. stud is just there to apply pressure between the ring terminal/bussbar and the contact surface of the cell.
I use it following the directions on the tube. use a wire brush to clean off contact surfaces, and then use the wire brush to apply it to the surfaces scrubbing it in. then
 
So here is what I have learned from the links in this discussion and further research into the products:

1) NO-OX-ID is a contact enhancer(?) that is designed to penetrate the layer of Aluminum Oxide that forms rapidly on any aluminum surface. It's best use case is BETWEEN contact points as the zinc crystals (their words, not mine) suspended in the gel pierce this layer if it has formed before the connection. With proper torque, the excess is squeezed out. As it is oxygen free, it could be used to coat the exterior of the connection to prevent corrosion.

2)Dielectric Grease (ie Silicone Grease) is also oxygen free and if applied AFTER proper cleaning AND torquing of the connection, will inhibit formation of Aluminum Oxide.

So the takeaway is: If you have, or can get NO-OX-ID, use it. If not, Dielectric Grease is an acceptable second choice for a properly cleaned and torqued connection and is almost always better than nothing in a harsh or exposed environment.
 
I use NO-OX-ID A Special and not changing. Got it from Amazon.
This is a result from a marine article where they subjected several types of connection to harsh conditions.

IMG_1388.jpeg
 
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