Do pool questions go here? It is a water pump?

[robbob2112]

Something low speed, and probably adding sweeps before and after the pair of pumps. They do that I my hottub.

 

[WorldwideDave]

Sweeps? Photos please

 

[robbob2112]

Amazon.com

So you install the pipe fittings so that the outlet water from both pumps is flowing smooth. Not just a traditional T. The large pump output goes straight and the small pump is on the side sweep.

 

[ksmithaz1]

You can spend a lot of money,on pool equipment, and low end solar crap, but I wouldn't. I'd roll what you have, invest the money in the inverter so you can use it for other things. I'd get at least something like the 6000XP that you can scale. 8 400W panels, a 100AH battery, drop an oversize sub-panel and scale up as your desires take you. The problem with buying a 3000W inverter, and odds and ends is you end up spending $300 here, $300 there, and soon you spend $1500-2000, and you have disposable junk, with a cobbled together setup.

Replace the timer box with a larger outdoor rated box, put a small transfer switch in it, one of those 63A chinese DIN rail things would be fine, run an additional wire from your shiny new sub-panel into the primary side

6000XP $1500 Battery $1200, 8 Panels, $1200, < $5K all in DIY you have something useful, it will run your pool and you can tie other stuff in it when you are not using it for the pool.

 

[ksmithaz1]

You have in-floors or a kreepy?

 

[WorldwideDave]

Like a kreepy krawly. Hose goes in top

 

[WorldwideDave]

You can spend a lot of money,on pool equipment, and low end solar crap, but I wouldn't. I'd roll what you have, invest the money in the inverter so you can use it for other things. I'd get at least something like the 6000XP that you can scale. 8 400W panels, a 100AH battery, drop an oversize sub-panel and scale up as your desires take you. The problem with buying a 3000W inverter, and odds and ends is you end up spending $300 here, $300 there, and soon you spend $1500-2000, and you have disposable junk, with a cobbled together setup.

Replace the timer box with a larger outdoor rated box, put a small transfer switch in it, one of those 63A chinese DIN rail things would be fine, run an additional wire from your shiny new sub-panel into the primary side

6000XP $1500 Battery $1200, 8 Panels, $1200, < $5K all in DIY you have something useful, it will run your pool and you can tie other stuff in it when you are not using it for the pool.

I have some money to burn and learn. I have a few properties and projects so nothing I get will go to waste and if I do a 3000 watt inverter at 12v for the summer to test my skills I will save that much on electricity and gas so that’s good. If the pump and solution I learn with works well, I can upgrade and sell or give to my son or donate parts to others learning. I’ve been given wires, adapters, fuses, panels, MPPT, lugs and more. Happy to pay it forward. Can always take to orphanage in Mexico and get them some stuff on solar. Plus we hope to build something off grid next year and while we are building can use this gear to run small power tools. It’s not all throw away for us at all. Learned a lot here. Will learn even more by doing. Not afraid of 48v. My electric golf card is 72 volt. Just replaced that Intermatic timer panel at 240v myself over to a waterproof box with 15 amp breaker just to test my skills. Ran new wires to pool pump, heater, replaced old grounds between equipment, and the panel. Took time. Went slow. Photographed a lot. Video a lot. Posted questions here. Got a lot of great answers. Not scared to do much anymore. So thank you and others for the encouragement. Very happy. Everything working great. Ordered parts needing replacement in my master temp 400 240v natural gas heater today too. Yeah me!

 

[Lawrence_SoCal]

The main panel, frankly, scares me. It has no main disconnect that I'm aware of. Think of it like this: There is a left side, and a right side. The right side from top to bottom has 10 or so breakers in it. On the left side, the panel is split into two. The top has the meter in it. I presume the lines from the roof run down to this section. Below that is another box with an access door that is screwed tight with all kinds of warnings. I assume it just has bundles of wires in it or else the big ones that go between the meter and the breaker panel on the right. The service disconnects are on the right, just two of the 10 breakers joined together with a nail labeled 'service disconnect'.

I have a SoCal house built in '79 with a similar main panel (largely in-wall vs on-wall, but otherwise very similar).
Just an FYI, ymmv
for my house, that lower left space on main electrical panel is simply 2 insulated LARGE wires coming from meter (upper left) over to main load center bus bar area (right) into main service disconnect (100A breaker)... for me, the main breaker is further down the bus bar (more in the middle vs top 1/3) making for shorter cable run (and less bending required)

Opening that lower left, if one is careful to NOT touch anything inside, seems low risk to me if you just want to confirm. In my panel, the wires are insulated, so even an accidental/slight touching isn't something that should be hazardous... but not being an electrician, I do know better than testing to find out ;^)

For the electricians, what is that left left panel area called? and what codes apply to it? (eg .. grabbing/re-routing the main service wires to a hybrid inverter / transfer switch, before feeding main load center ... just curious if that is still considered PoCo line (and don't touch), or as after meter, homeowner has some (reasonable) discretion [within code]?

 

[WorldwideDave]

I have a SoCal house built in '79 with a similar main panel (largely in-wall vs on-wall, but otherwise very similar).
Just an FYI, ymmv
for my house, that lower left space on main electrical panel is simply 2 insulated LARGE wires coming from meter (upper left) over to main load center bus bar area (right) into main service disconnect (100A breaker)... for me, the main breaker is further down the bus bar (more in the middle vs top 1/3) making for shorter cable run (and less bending required)

Opening that lower left, if one is careful to NOT touch anything inside, seems low risk to me if you just want to confirm. In my panel, the wires are insulated, so even an accidental/slight touching isn't something that should be hazardous... but not being an electrician, I do know better than testing to find out ;^)

For the electricians, what is that left left panel area called? and what codes apply to it? (eg .. grabbing/re-routing the main service wires to a hybrid inverter / transfer switch, before feeding main load center ... just curious if that is still considered PoCo line (and don't touch), or as after meter, homeowner has some (reasonable) discretion [within code]?

Thank you so much. Surprised there are no photos posted on these forums. Did you swap the panel out with a new load center? Did you use isolator/generator hookup, or are you off-grid, hybrid, or grid tie system?

 

[Lawrence_SoCal]

If you'd like a photo of the lower-left combo panel space under the cover, let me know... happy to take picture and post

Did you swap the panel out with a new load center? Did you use isolator/generator hookup, or are you off-grid, hybrid, or grid tie system?

No, kept original Arrow Hart Murray main load center (125A busbar, 100A service)... found 40+ year old label on neighbors house... mine had disappeared before I got the house).
fully permitted grid-tied AC coupled system (so micro-inverter on panels, 2 'strings' AC wiring into small, dedicated sub-panel, which also provides power to monitoring system (small box inside garage). That small sub-panel then connected (12-18" of wire length) to main (old) load center

Solar connection breaker melted (twice), and in the end the main bus bar was replaced (may have been problematic before solar install, but had been fine for last 25+ years). Once main load center bus bar replaced, Solar PV system stable​

No hybrid inverter, no batteries, no isolator/generator hookup... yet

Professional post-install inspection, and every other solar quote, strongly recommended a new/upgraded main panel. However, despite all the breakers adding up to so much more than main breaker/service feed [lots of dual breakers, etc), my actual max energy usage in 25+ years only recently hit 1/3 of my current service (ie, under 33A 240V). I am planning to move most circuits to a new sub-panel, inside the garage, for easier access