Dual Battery, Dual BMS and Balancer, single shunt help

[GmanFree]

Hi all.
I'm designing a new camper trailer setup to replace an existing agm setup. All items in image are new.

Can I please clarify the shunt wiring, I have the SHUNT b1 red terminal from shunt to battery 1 bank. What about battery 2 bank, will this be monitored?

Can I have temp sensor on both banks of batteries?

Is the Bms wiring correct?

Any other comments appreciated?

 

[TacomaJoe]

My two cents. I'd move the DCDC output to the + buss with the SCC outputs. I like a fuse for each battery sitting close to the battery. I wonder about the isolation switch, here's my thinking; I you turn that switch off to isolate the batteries, you will still have the SCC and DCDC feeding the inverter. My experience: my converter died and my theory is that I had disconnected my battery and my SCC fed too much back to the unloaded converter.

 

[GmanFree]

My two cents. I'd move the DCDC output to the + buss with the SCC outputs. I like a fuse for each battery sitting close to the battery. I wonder about the isolation switch, here's my thinking; I you turn that switch off to isolate the batteries, you will still have the SCC and DCDC feeding the inverter. My experience: my converter died and my theory is that I had disconnected my battery and my SCC fed too much back to the unloaded converter.

Cheers, thanks for your comments. To clarify.
*DCDC red output to the +bussbar. What about the DCDC black Neg output?

*Fuse to each battery to battery? Please clarify.

*Isolator comment, so you are saying I should have more breakers to the break to SCC and DCDC to inverter

 

[TacomaJoe]

You want your battery to inverter path to be as short/direct as possible. You will have a heap of current there.

The wire between the battery and fuse is unprotected and should be short as possible. I have a MRBF fuse on my battery positive terminal post, then wire over to the inverter.

I don't have an isolator switch. I don't turn off the batteries. In my trailer my refrigerator runs all the time and needs 12V for the control board (120VAC on shore power and LP when driving). My breakaway brakes are in the mix as well.

You don't want to open the SCC/battery connection before opening the panel connection. My 300W of solar is plenty when sitting a home. I have a switch in the panel leg to turn off the solar to avoid overcharging the batteries.