ECO-WORTHY 1500W 24V -> 115V experiences? $200

[eXodus]

Anyone know anything about the ECO-WORTHY 1500W System?

All-in-one Inverter Built in 1500W 24V Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter & 50A Controller for Off Grid System | ECO-WORTHY

ECO-WORTHY All-in-one Inverter Built in 1500W 24V Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter & 50A Controller is perfect for apply to 24V Off-grid solar power system on RV/Camping car/Shed/Workshop etc. A combination of 1500W DC 24V AC 220V pure sine wave inverter and 50A charge controller. Suitable for 24V...

www.eco-worthy.com

I couldn't find a manual or any further specifications.


I want to built a solar system for my irrigation well system. It has a 1/2hp pump, (400 running watts) doesn't have much surge. I had it running from a 1200W el cheapo MSW inverter.

I still have a 24V 100AH LFP battery laying around and a few of 36V 300W solar panels. So spending $200 in a all-in-one to clean up wiring and have one box instead of a bunch of them sounds not bad.

 

[wiseacre]

Built-in PWM controller (conflicting specs say MPPT)
Eco Worthy has been PWM catering to "12 and 24v" for a long time.
I think they're starting to catch up with MPPT but you should double check with them on this model
I had one of their PWM SCCs on a small system and it was adequate before I expanded my array and upgraded to Victron

limit (2) 300w panels

I have an older 24v, 3500w Eco Worthy inverter (4 years)
I'm more than happy with it
While definitely not anywhere near top tier products they are IMO a good deal for limited budgets
If the specs meet your needs I wouldn't advise against one

Eco Worthy usually responds fairly quickly to questions but things get lost in translation (maybe better now)

 

[Rednecktek]

The manual can be found on Amazon for the 600w and 1500w units (same manual). I have the 600w 12v version I ended up using on my Tuition Bin project and it's adequate. It is indeed a PWM controller so plan your panels accordingly. It has a little diagram on how to connect panels which helps if you're new, but you can strap 4 of your panels on there (1200w for the 1500w unit) in parallel and be good to go.

 

[eXodus]

The manual can be found on Amazon for the 600w and 1500w units (same manual). I have the 600w 12v version I ended up using on my Tuition Bin project and it's adequate. It is indeed a PWM controller so plan your panels accordingly. It has a little diagram on how to connect panels which helps if you're new, but you can strap 4 of your panels on there (1200w for the 1500w unit) in parallel and be good to go.

thanks, but the unit I'm looking on is different, it clearly says MPPT on the box and all the bottom wiring is different.

Eco Worthy usually responds fairly quickly to questions but things get lost in translation (maybe better now)

I've send them a message, lets see if they respond.

While definitely not anywhere near top tier products they are IMO a good deal for limited budgets

If the specs meet your needs I wouldn't advise against one

not looking for something fancy. Simple and cheap and somewhat reliable. I'm looking for a solar backup system, nothing mission critical.

 

[Rednecktek]

Found the right one! This unit is MUCH better than their older PWM version.

 

[eXodus]

Found the right one! This unit is MUCH better than their older PWM version.

Thanks that's the correct one. No information what battery voltages are used or how to change them...

The Display looks like one from the small PWM charge controllers I got in other projects. So I would assume you can only change battery type, the manual is mentioning LFP and Lead. Could be sufficient, I'm running a LFP battery on my gate opener solar with AGM settings for years and it's doing fine.

The wiring seems to be nice organized and you have two 115V plugs. Which is all I need.

 

[BradCagle]

I have one. Looks nice and clean on the inside. However hooked up PV, and the unit fried. Sparks smoke!

The unit says max PV voltage 100v on the side, the mosfets are rated for 100v (i looked them up). The manual says 75v, and some places say 80v.

The PV I hooked up was about 75v open circuit.

The replacement unit came today, so I'll try again. Also doing a review video.

 

[BradCagle]

Ok I can 100% confirm if you go any over 75v on the PV input it fries instantly. Despite what the sticker says on the side

 

[eXodus]

Ok I can 100% confirm if you go any over 75v on the PV input it fries instantly. Despite what the sticker says on the side

so you burned up the second one as well? You got 2S two panels in series?

I have 37V panels - so they would end up a 74V would be very close. Probably just wire them in parallel. Shouldn't make much difference.
Let us know

 

[BradCagle]

so you burned up the second one as well? You got 2S two panels in series?

I have 37V panels - so they would end up a 74V would be very close. Probably just wire them in parallel. Shouldn't make much difference.
Let us know

Yeah, fried the second one.

I would stay far away from 75v to be safe.

Video coming soon.

 

[BradCagle]

It may be a fine unit, I dunno. If you buy one ignore the sticker that says 100vdc, and section in the manual that says 80vdc.
DO NOT EXCEED 75v VOC

Here's the video:

 

[eXodus]

Thanks for the video.

Probably the manual is garbage - every PWM or MPPT I've worked with before states - you need to connect the battery first.
I've fried a PWM when I connected panels without the battery.

I think I'm going to order one and just add two panels in parallel at 37V - hope that should be ok

I wonder what explodes at 75V ? Could you post a picture of the damage? I mean electronic components have tolerances and when you design a something like this you expect people are being people and measurement equipment is not perfect accurate.

So having 100V Mosfets and a 80V limit - would make sense. If someone connects something which goes to 82V it should still work - because you designed in 20% buffer.

Apparently there is no buffer whatsoever...

 

[BradCagle]

Thanks for the video.

Probably the manual is garbage - every PWM or MPPT I've worked with before states - you need to connect the battery first.
I've fried a PWM when I connected panels without the battery.

I think I'm going to order one and just add two panels in parallel at 37V - hope that should be ok

I wonder what explodes at 75V ? Could you post a picture of the damage? I mean electronic components have tolerances and when you design a something like this you expect people are being people and measurement equipment is not perfect accurate.

So having 100V Mosfets and a 80V limit - would make sense. If someone connects something which goes to 82V it should still work - because you designed in 20% buffer.

Apparently there is no buffer whatsoever...

I've already sent it back.

MPPT's that can start with PV voltage absent battery have an auxiliary DC/DC converter (separate from the main MPPT DC/DC section)
This converter takes the high PV voltage down to 3.3v, or 5v to run the micro-controller that runs the main DC/DC, and the MPPT algorithm.

My guess is this auxiliary DC/DC cannot handle over 75v, while the main MPPT DC/DC could theoretically do 100v

Also note the second one that burned, the battery was connected first, and stayed connected the whole time.

 

[eXodus]

This converter takes the high PV voltage down to 3.3v, or 5v to run the micro-controller that runs the main DC/DC,

This is a good theory, when you look at at LM5005 voltage regulator with 5V output it has - Input Voltage Range From 7 V to 75 V

https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm5005.pdf?ts=1685181809027&ref_url=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F

Those things tend to blow up pretty accurate at their maximum voltage.