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EG4 18Kpv fried PV input

ksmithaz1 said:
I literally spent hours looking this up. I'd never seen this style connector.
Click to expand...
More than likely it's some Chinese made variation of this I posted earlier.
Screenshot_20240622-001800.png
I'm trying to understand the orientation better to possibly find a replacement, does it turn 90° and then connect to cables vertically or is it a plug in connection?
 
ksmithaz1 said:
I literally spent hours looking this up. I'd never seen this style connector.

Place an appropriately sized screwdriver in the top I used a 10" bargain bin from Lowes.
View attachment 223591

Stuff it in the hole as far as you can flat high. Note the flat part is not visible.

View attachment 223592

Now peer in the hole and lift the handle , you will see the contact raise up inside the hole ... It takes quite a bit of pressure to move it!

View attachment 223593
Good luck!
Click to expand...

Except those springs the screwdriver has been pushed into may be at up to +/- 600VDC.

Lock Out, Tag Out, Test Out.

Or shut off inverter to ensure zero current flow, go on the roof or wherever the MC4 connectors are, label which is which (to later re-mate same pairs) and unplug all connections between these wires and the PV panels.

Then measure and confirm zero volts. It will probably be high voltage for a while as capacitors discharge. Wait patiently until voltage between positive and negative are something you're willing to touch. Also between terminals and ground.

Use AC as well as DC range on DMM. Shut off inverter! Otherwise they terminals may carry AC.

(Don't be like me! And some other semi-lucky souls here who are still walking the Earth.)
 
Last edited:
Hedges said:
Except those springs the screwdriver has been pushed into may be at up to +/- 600VDC.

Lock Out, Tag Out, Test Out.

Or shut off inverter to ensure zero current flow, go on the roof or wherever the MC4 connectors are, label which is which (to later re-mate same pairs) and unplug all connections between these wires and the PV panels.

Then measure and confirm zero volts. It will probably be high voltage for a while as capacitors discharge. Wait patiently until voltage between positive and negative are something you're wiling to touch. Also between terminals and ground.

Use AC as well as DC range on DMM. Shut off inverter! Otherwise they terminals may carry AC.

(Don't be like me! And some other semi-lucky souls here who are still walking the Earth.)
Click to expand...
It's why I have a combiner board even though I only have 2s1p my luck is awful so I over prepare
 
ThaiTaffy said:
Just a pet peve of mine is all even if it is safe I don't like to see bare conductors but I'm still confused why I can see a slither of conductor in the photo then it goes solid before entering the battery terminal.
Click to expand...
I like a small visible ring to know we didn't pinch the insulation, but it depends on the connector
 
ksmithaz1 said:
I literally spent hours looking this up. I'd never seen this style connector.

Place an appropriately sized screwdriver in the top I used a 10" bargain bin from Lowes.
View attachment 223591

Stuff it in the hole as far as you can flat high. Note the flat part is not visible.

View attachment 223592

Now peer in the hole and lift the handle , you will see the contact raise up inside the hole ... It takes quite a bit of pressure to move it!

View attachment 223593
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Quick Tip if you plan to work on this or remove them yourself. Please ensure solar array is disconnected or powered down when installing PV conductors! Very dangerous voltages here. Insulated thin screwdriver is ideal. Do not try to force it in if it does not fit. Need perfect size screwdriver to press that lever inside.
 
Yeah two of my PV strings can and do max out at 450 volts with no load and the other is 380 volts. Not to be messed with. You would be unlucky if it didn't kill you at this voltage.
 
If you do it fast enough, like I did kneeling on damp ground and caressing a 480VDC wire, you just make funny noises.

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⚡Shock⚡ through the heart,

Speaking of idjit moves...I upgraded a while back from 2 inverters to 3, the main Pos Class-T remained a 300A. while I waited for a bigger fuse to come in. (ie now undersized). Then recently after witnessing the OST (official solar tester) aka the spouse pushing the system near to it's limits I...
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Will Prowse said:
Quick Tip if you plan to work on this or remove them yourself. Please ensure solar array is disconnected or powered down when installing PV conductors! Very dangerous voltages here. Insulated thin screwdriver is ideal. Do not try to force it in if it does not fit. Need perfect size screwdriver to press that lever inside.
Click to expand...
You could take this very screwdriver and cover it with heat-shrink if desired. After spending an inordinate amount of time with this silly connector, ... It pretty well shrouds the contacts, they are wayyy back there, I would verify no voltage to ground before you stuff anything in the hole, but it's pretty much impossible to accidentally create a short if you do them one at a time, you would have to try by stuffing things into multiple holes at the same time.

They did a pretty good job in this box keeping you from accidentally screwing the pooch, I really like that aspect of the 18kPV.
 
It looks like the positive of 1A and negative of 1B is still good so you may be able to connect array to that.
 
robbob2112 said:
I am going to ask a dumb question - but, aren't the CT clamps meant to go around the service entrance grid cables verse just the grid wires to the AIO? I mean they could just pick the presence and frequncy up internally from the terminals ?
Click to expand...
They work for me for my measurement for my net metering.
 
I'm not a fan of these types of connections.
Even when the connection is done as designed, the contact is not good enough.
Lugs and screw terminals have a long history of providing a great connection.
Economy Engineering has its place, but this isn't it.
 
Zwy said:
EG4 doesn't have replacement parts. The crimp on the ferrule looks poorly done. This failure is the result of a poor connection, most likely the poorly crimped ferrule, but could be on the other side of the connector.

I had a failure in the EG4 charge controllers. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/magic-smoke-came-out-it-happens.83412/ When I installed the replacement charge controller (remember, they don't have any parts to service units) I removed the top cover and tightened every terminal. Probably should do it again after running for a few months.

Are you paralleling strings? This should be about 10A for a single string.
Click to expand...
Yes, running in series. 10A per string
 
Jsands said:
you did a nice job and yoru pictures are really clear. thank you. I know when the installers were here they really struggled to get those windows open. Anyone found a trick to make the window open better/more?
Click to expand...
Stick a screwdriver in the hole above it and push the handle up. Gotta have the right size screwdriver, but who doesn’t have dozens to choose from?
 
ThaiTaffy said:
There's a specific tool that looks like a bank of flat headed screwdrivers but that's generally just for removing, if you have the correct wire size and ferrule they should just push in.
Click to expand...
NO! The ones on the 18Kpv don’t just push in. You must open the gate and push the ferrule in.
 
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