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Eg4 Lifepower4 battery is ticking on start

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what about the advertised specs 100A continuous??
I read somewhere the 30A is bogus and you can do 100A as confirmed by SS. I just wish someone can devise a scientific test of this to put everyone at ease.
 
I read somewhere the 30A is bogus and you can do 100A as confirmed by SS. I just wish someone can devise a scientific test of this to put everyone at ease.
I ordered another inverter today for delivery tomorrow. I'm suspecting in my case it fails @ 40ish Amp which is not acceptable. Will confirm.
 
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I ordered another inverter today for delivery tomorrow. I'm suspecting in my case it fails @ 40ish Amp which is not acceptable. Will confirm.
I know many people don’t have access to such equipment but if someone has a current shunt of 50milliohm, 0.1ohm, you can put a cheapie 50Mhz scope and get the inrush profile of the inverter.
 
Never mind. With the victron smart shunt, the burden voltage is 50mV @ 500A so you would need a good scope with at least 1mV input noise to measure 10A resolution. Most have 10mV accuracy so you would only get 100A resolution.
 
I don’t believe the clamp on meters is telling the whole story even though it claims to detect peak currents.
 
I'm curious. Have any of you that have had such a horrid time with your batteries and customer service, taken the time to leave a negative review on the SS website? All I see there are positive reviews for the batteries and I'd like to know if they're filtering the input.

Incidentally, I would have to leave a positive review as the 4 Lifepower4 batteries I have perform flawlessly. I'm sure that a negative review from people that have had a less than stellar experience might better get their attention vs venting here, where only a few select people will ever read about your issues.
 
I want to know what the obsession is with watching cell voltages. We are working with lifepo4 and the natural variation with a 16S pack is well known. And voltage is not a indicator of soc with lifepo4
If it were a V8 car engine and a couple of the cylinders had low compression, it would run poorly, have less power and fuel economy. Same when a cell or 2 are not matched to the others. Voltage is a very good indicator of charge, it's just a VERY small change over a large percentage of charge with big knee's top and bottom.
 
I'm curious. Have any of you that have had such a horrid time with your batteries and customer service, taken the time to leave a negative review on the SS website? All I see there are positive reviews for the batteries and I'd like to know if they're filtering the input.
Hmmm I wonder?
Better Business Bureau
I normally take the complaints with a pinch of salt but in this case they sound familiar.

Incidentally, I would have to leave a positive review as the 4 Lifepower4 batteries I have perform flawlessly. I'm sure that a negative review from people that have had a less than stellar experience might better get their attention vs venting here, where only a few select people will ever read about your issues.
Most of the people that know these batteries exist and bought them is because they read about them here or saw Will's videos.
If you call most Installers or call large suppliers like EcoDirect they are going to direct you to more expensive Tier 1 Batteries.
 
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If it were a V8 car engine and a couple of the cylinders had low compression, it would run poorly, have less power and fuel economy. Same when a cell or 2 are not matched to the others. Voltage is a very good indicator of charge, it's just a VERY small change over a large percentage of charge with big knee's top and bottom.
Yep!
Voltage is going to be what determines the drop out point of the Inverter. If you set the Inverter to stop pulling battery power at 51V you are going to reach 51V a lot sooner if you have a few bad cells.
It does not matter if you have 13 fully charged A+ cells. If the three other cells drop by 1V each the SOC is going to drop from 100% to 50%. As soon as those other 13 cells drop by 80mv each the Inverter will see the SOC as 20% and cut off using the battery. You will have a very short runtime and plenty of unusable power left in the battery.
While I am only dealing with 150mv loss on each cell as opposed to 1V I am still worried about what will happen a year from now.
 
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Could someone tell me the correct size (if it matters) resistor for a 48V 100AH battery, so I can test them.
I saw a video from Will, but it was for a 12V 100AH battery (25W 30ohm).
Thanks.
 
25 Ohm 100 Watt or you can use a 50 Ohm 50 Watt
25 Ohm 100 Watt Link
Hey @robby, i've always wondered about using an external resistor when the battery already has one built in. If you cannot de-activate the internal pre-charge function, should any consideration be made for the combined value of using two together in the same circuit?
 
Hey @robby, i've always wondered about using an external resistor when the battery already has one built in. If you cannot de-activate the internal pre-charge function, should any consideration be made for the combined value of using two together in the same circuit?
Absolutely, you have the 2 resistors in series until the BMS bypasses its own resistor.

JBD BMS uses a 10 ohm resistor.
 
Absolutely, you have the 2 resistors in series until the BMS bypasses its own resistor.

JBD BMS uses a 10 ohm resistor.
Are you sure this will work?
From what I can tell based on stories from users it seems like the EG4 does not turn on the BMS Mosfets unless the voltage at the terminals has reached a certain level after the Pre-Charge cycle.
This would mean that you would be putting two resistors in series and that would lessen the Pre-Charge current which would also mean less voltage.
If true when the Pre-Charge turns off there would be no voltage from the BMS to send to that external resistor.
 
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