diy solar

diy solar

EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 40A wattage

Most of the load outputs give you the ability to control timing on/off which is mostly intended to turn on/off lighting, triggered by darkness. They also have low voltage cutoff in the event the load draws down the battery to a low level of charge.
I’m planning to use them because they also allow the load to be logged using the epever e-log
 
^^^ yes, and the AN50 has gen contacts, too- a world of usefulness even if you don’t have a generator.
 
Most of the load outputs give you the ability to control timing on/off which is mostly intended to turn on/off lighting, triggered by darkness. They also have low voltage cutoff in the event the load draws down the battery to a low level of charge.
The manual recommends using the load outputs to activate a relay to control larger loads
 
Yea I ha
I don’t know if it would actually. It might.

I have 400W facing SE and 400W facing SW on one AN50. 4S2P
The parallel arrays (if matched) do not have any downsides in practical terms.

That seems odd. With LiFePo I’d think you’d float a whisker under boost/absorption- though I suspect LiFePo settings probably don’t have an absorption setting. Not in my experience set so uncertain. But it’s weird to float above boost and the software may not allow it
Yes I haven’t used the epever SCC yet, I am not sure I can even adjust the settings to align with my charging goal.
That’s part of my question, if the EPEver can even do what I’m asking it to do.
Xantrex told me their inverter/charger is designed to charge within any parameters it can be set to. I was hoping the EPEver had a similar reputation or someone with experience might have the info for me.

I’m curious if I can use the EPEver BN 150v 40a MPPT to charge to values between 12v and 24v but two of y’all have told me it will destroy my battery.
I can take your word that this battery might burn out my puck LEDs, but I am curious about what the risk to my battery might be.
 
Char
Over-volting a LiFePo leads to death.
Any combination/multiple of 3.2V cells can be charged to an appropriate voltage if the charger supports that voltage as far as I know.

But it is true that overcharging can blow batteries up ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Char
But it is true that overcharging can blow batteries up ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Very true. I bloated my first set by accidently charging them to over 5 volts per cell. What a sick feeling seeing those blue loafs sitting there all pudgy and swelled up. Strange thing is they are still working. I use them regularly. Not sure how long they will last though.
 

For 12V you can over panel up to 3X the rating, that is why it shows 520W/12V, and MAX array of 1560W/12V, you will be fine with 620W of panels since it allows you to over panel up to 1560W for 12V system, I doubt that any one will want to install 1560W of panels only to use only 520W of power.
From user manual:
"This MPPT controller has a limiting function of charging current, the charging current will be limited within rated range, therefore, the controller will charge the battery with the rated charging power even if the input power at the PV exceeds."

"When the PV array straight polarity, the actual operation of the PV array must NOT 10 exceed three times of rated charge power."
What do they mean with "PV array straight polarity" vs the "controller will be damaged when the PV array reverse polarity ... is 1.5 times greater than the rated charge power"?
 
What do they mean with "PV array straight polarity" vs the "controller will be damaged when the PV array reverse polarity ... is 1.5 times greater than the rated charge power"?
I just saw that in the printed leaflet which I got with my 40A tracer it says "Max. PV Array Power": 1560W/12V,
but in the Tracer-BN-Manual-EN-V2.0.pdf from the internet it says

However, in the practical application, the maximum power of PV array shall be not greater than 1.5 times the rated charging power of controller. If the maximum power of PV array exceeds the rated charging power of controller too much, it will not only cause the waste of PV modules, but also increase the open-circuit voltage of PV array due to the influence of environmental temperature, which may make the probability of damage to the controller rise. Therefore, it is very important to configure the system reasonably. For the recommended maximum power of PV array for this controller, please refer to the table below:
...
Tracer4215BN: "Max. PV Array Power": 780W/12V.
Now I am really confused.
 
What do they mean with "PV array straight polarity" vs the "controller will be damaged when the PV array reverse polarity ... is 1.5 times greater than the rated charge power"?
The SCC will be damaged if you have wrong polarity Voltage from the panel feeding into the SCC.
 
I just saw that in the printed leaflet which I got with my 40A tracer it says "Max. PV Array Power": 1560W/12V,
but in the Tracer-BN-Manual-EN-V2.0.pdf from the internet it says


Now I am really confused.
It's basically telling you not to exceed the maximum PV input Voltage, and Voltage of the panel will go up as temperature goes down, I factor 15 ~ 20% extra head so the Voltage will not exceed max PV input if you live in really cold area.
So:
1) Never exceed the max PV input Voltage of the SCC, should factor in the head room for the Voltage in cold weather.
2) Do not connect wrong Voltage polarity from the panels to the the SCC, this is common sense any way.
 
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basically telling you not to exceed the maximum PV input Voltage, and Voltage of the panel will go up as temperature goes down
That is why I upped to a AN50
90.6VOC with eight 100W 4S2P
For temporary technical reasons (MPP AIO on its way) I want to put the AN40 back in for two weeks (buyer pending on AN50) but I’m scared to. 10*F I think is roughly 100V
 
That is why I upped to a AN50
90.6VOC with eight 100W 4S2P
For temporary technical reasons (MPP AIO on its way) I want to put the AN40 back in for two weeks (buyer pending on AN50) but I’m scared to. 10*F I think is roughly 100V
Any way you could make do on 25% less power production for a couple of weeks by disconnecting a panel on each string to get some VOC headroom?
 
Any way you could make do on 25% less power production for a couple of weeks by disconnecting a panel on each string to get some VOC headroom?
Ya. Or could 3S3P
I’ve thought about both 3S2P and 3S3P

It’s easy, but not so easy.
I ran my cables inside to parallel, and I have the East array with two at the far end two up front with the cables into the wall to minimize the surprisingly common high wind events (which shatter MC4s).
 
The MC4s are brittle plastic or is the brittleness from extreme cold temperatures?
 
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