Epever Tracer AN series question regarding load terminal

[Hogheavenfarm]

Ok, here is a screenshot -
I had the wires from the light connected at "1", I believe I should have them connected at "2" and a separate power feed going into "1"

 

[Hogheavenfarm]

Thanks, I would have given up without your help (all of you). Just getting old and not thinking too clearly I guess. I sincerely appreciate the help.

 

[Bud Martin]

Ok, here is a screenshot -
I had the wires from the light connected at "1", I believe I should have them connected at "2" and a separate power feed going into "1"

View attachment 126335

No.
Isn't '1' the Dry relay contact set 1, and #2 is another set of Dry relay contact set #2, same for #3, they are not related to each other.
Each removable Phoenix connector is for a set of relay contact, you have 3 set of relay contacts.

 

[Checkthisout]

Ok, here is a screenshot -
I had the wires from the light connected at "1", I believe I should have them connected at "2" and a separate power feed going into "1"

View attachment 126335

The load relay is on the left only (#1) in your photo.

 

[Bud Martin]

The load relay is on the left only (#1). The

View attachment 126337

Thanks for the pictures.

 

[Hogheavenfarm]

Ok, thats where I had the light wired in. Where would the power feed wires go?
There is no power to the number 1 side when the relay is closed (or open). The picture on the decal above those ports seems to indicate a horizontal trajectory to the opposite port.

 

[Hogheavenfarm]

OK, maybe The power goes from one screw on one side the the plug for port 1 to the other screw, as a single line interrupt, like wiring a light switch? Just a break in the positive line? The negative line would go through without interruption?

 

[Checkthisout]

OK, maybe The power goes from one screw on one side the the plug for port 1 to the other screw, as a single line interrupt, like wiring a light switch? Just a break in the positive line? The negative line would go through without interruption?

 

[Checkthisout]

Put a wire to the battery. Attach this wire to upper pin on the left, attach a second wire the pin just below the upper left pin. Attach thus wire to the bulb positive.

Run bulb negative to the battery negative terminal and the light should turn on and off when the load relay is turned on and off.


The pins on the upper right are for sensing battery voltage. Ignore them for now.

Ignorenthem

 

[Bud Martin]

I would suggest to put in-line fuse between battery + terminal and the wire that goes to the terminal, select the correct size fuse so the wire will not burn up if the load draw > current than the wire rating or short circuit.

 

[Hogheavenfarm]

OK, thats what I finally gathered after all your explanations. I do intend on fusing the positive line, just need to research what the specs are on the light. All this looks much clearer in the pictures as the unit is horizontal, but with it fastened tothe wall and surrounded by cabling and other devices (shunt, meters etc) it becomes very hard for me to even see these connections, and its in the basement which is already very dark, hence the light idea. So I am breaking the positive wire at the pins of the left plug, that is the relay. The negative travels through to the light from batt neg. Maybe this will help some others who are in the same situation. Thank you Bud and Chkthis and 12vInst. for this information.

 

[Hogheavenfarm]

Just FYI for anyone else planning on adding things to these ports as they go (yes even the remote battery temperature plug), it is far easier to make all these wiring hookups before mounting the SCC while you can still see the ports. Once mounted all kinds of impediments to reaching these areas...

 

[Checkthisout]

Just FYI for anyone else planning on adding things to these ports as they go (yes even the remote battery temperature plug), it is far easier to make all these wiring hookups before mounting the SCC while you can still see the ports. Once mounted all kinds of impediments to reaching these areas...View attachment 126409

The parts with the little flathead screws unplugs from the charge controller. You can unplug it, connect the wires to it and then plug it back into the controller.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

connect the wires to it and then plug it back into the controller.

…and then support the wires so the little connector isn’t bearing weight.

After having a 50A Epever come with a stripped charge-out/battery cable terminal screw and then waiting too long to return- not a problem- and discovering NO parts are available- that IS a problem) I’m in kid glove mode with Epever now. Great controllers, but no parts is the third ‘thing’ that is dubious with them. Epever is like 97% of being fantastic.
(The other two being the high-voltage spike shutdown glitch (software bug along with slow processing of high voltage variances from the solar panels) while charging lead acid, mostly) and that I (and not most but many others) could not get settings to save/stick with the MT50- thankfully the PC app works well.)

 

[PVorBust]

With the breaker open it gives continuity between batt(-) and load(-) but no continuity on pos(+).

The "N" on the AN, BN etc series designate them as "Negative Common" (positive switched), so the negative terminals are always tied together.

The typical non-MPPT SCC is 'positive common' (negative switched).

 

[12VoltInstalls]

The typical non-MPPT SCC is 'positive common' (negative switched).

I guess I’ve never bought anything typical?

 

[PVorBust]

I guess I’ve never bought anything typical?

Good for you!
Always buying quality gear!!

"Positive Switching" is easier/cheaper to design and build, but it has it's down sides.

 

[pollenface]

Would like to hear from someone actually using this, how did you do it?

I set mine to

Battery type USER

Sunset - 15v
Sunrise - 30v

LVD 12.4v
LVR 12.9v

Both conditions have to be met for it to work.

LVR has to be lower than Boost Reconnect

I run a small dc-dc charger with it.