Fuse and breaker questions for 6k inverter.

[Wv lew]

Newbie here. Thanks in advance for helping me. I do electrical stuff all day long but new to solar. I’m just starting to install phase one of my solar, so right now it’s an eg4. 6000 ex, 12-Trina Solar 280 watt panels ground mount, and 1-eg4 LL 48 volt battery.

A couple questions;
1st, does the all in one 6000 ex by eg4 have any overload or short circuit protection built in for the solar input, or for the battery output etc? I would think it does, but who knows.

2- I looked at will prowse design for the split phase eg4 6500’s and he has breakers and fuses. Can I use a breaker to the battery output? I am thinking of using the Nader dc circuit breaker from signature solar, more specifically is that ok or even needed since the eg4 LL48 battery I’m using has a built in breaker?

3- what kind of overload /short circuit protection do I need on my solar, right now all I have is the disconnect which doesn’t supply any protection it just disconnects. In hindsight if the all in one inverter doesn’t have any protection for it, maybe a breaker here would have been smarter than a disconnect as the breaker can also serve as a disconnect. Any suggestions for a breaker for the solar pv input?

Thank you

 

[wdwtx2.0]

The 6000 has programming that limits how much power it can output, but I doesn't have built in physical protection AFAIK.
If all you are going to have is 1 battery, you are not going to get much bang for your buck out of your system.
The inverter itself uses a large amount of power, and you would have trouble starting much of a load with just 1 battery.
It will also drain very quickly just self powering.
As far as needing a battery fuse/breaker, if you just have the one battery, the battery breaker should suffice as long as the wire is rated for at least 100A.
But if you start getting multiple batteries, you need to fuse (class T) the battery as close to the battery buss as possible, and I would put a disconnect breaker near the inverter. The fewer switches needed to de-energize as possible is better.
Not getting into code, it is a VERY good idea to fuse each string of your PV panels. Make sure your disconnect is DC rated and voltage/amperage rated for your needs.
And for protecting your AIO, it is a good idea to use a surge protection device (SPD).

 

[Wv lew]

The 6000 has programming that limits how much power it can output, but I doesn't have built in physical protection AFAIK.
If all you are going to have is 1 battery, you are not going to get much bang for your buck out of your system.
The inverter itself uses a large amount of power, and you would have trouble starting much of a load with just 1 battery.
It will also drain very quickly just self powering.
As far as needing a battery fuse/breaker, if you just have the one battery, the battery breaker should suffice as long as the wire is rated for at least 100A.
But if you start getting multiple batteries, you need to fuse (class T) the battery as close to the battery buss as possible, and I would put a disconnect breaker near the inverter. The fewer switches needed to de-energize as possible is better.
Not getting into code, it is a VERY good idea to fuse each string of your PV panels. Make sure your disconnect is DC rated and voltage/amperage rated for your needs.
And for protecting your AIO, it is a good idea to use a surge protection device (SPD).

Ya, this is just the first phase of what I want as money allows, and it’s more of a critical load thing if SHTF right now but I’m just trying to get started. I have put it off for years and I just need something to run microwave and frog and some lights, maybe hit water heater for a little bit. That’s all I’m intending to do.

Can you recommend a fuse block and supplier for the dc input from the solar panels? I’m going to put 10 panels in series for now which will bring me to 444 VDC I believe. The current is 7.78 but it says maximum series fuse 15A on the panels. So ima assuming an online 15 amp fuse? Could one simply install an in line car fuse at the panels after they are in series and before the head to the inverter PV input?

 

[wdwtx2.0]

I use the Midnite Solar DIN rail midget fuse holder.
I got them from The Power Store.
444V is very close to the maximum the inverter can stand.
Have you checked to see what the cold weather adjustment might do to your VOC?
The fuses need to be rated to handle at as least much voltage as your combined VOC.

 

[Wv lew]

I use the Midnite Solar DIN rail midget fuse holder.
I got them from The Power Store.
444V is very close to the maximum the inverter can stand.
Have you checked to see what the cold weather adjustment might do to your VOC?
The fuses need to be rated to handle at as least much voltage as your combined VOC.

Thanks as far as the current rating of the fuse, can I just use the 15 amp max stated on the solar panels? Ultimately that’s what I’m trying to protect. Wire is plenty big enough for 15 amp so that’s not a concern.

 

[wdwtx2.0]

Could one simply install an in line car fuse at the panels after they are in series and before the head to the inverter PV input?

This is what I was referencing on voltage.
Car fuses are 12V. They can handle more, but not PV voltages.
You would need equipment rated for 500V minimum. Fuses, fuse holders, and disconnect.
15A fuse per string should be fine.