A good explanation of it all is here: https://www.lithiumbatterytech.com/charging-lifepo4-batteries-in-parallel/
It is OK if you periodically unwire and charge separately each series connected battery. But how many folks will do that?
General Battery advice
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It is OK if you periodically unwire and charge separately each series connected battery. But how many folks will do that?
probably none. lool
✅Like New✅ Ampere Time 24V 100Ah, 2560Wh Lithium LiFePO4 Battery & Built in 100A BMS
Our used batteries were bought by customers who found that they bought the wrong capacity or did not compatible with their application. - Amperetime-US
www.amperetime.com
Probably going with this battery. Decent warranty for what it is and it seems like others on the forum haven't had any issues with it and the customer service seems responsive. thanks for the recommendation!
seneysolar
Solar Enthusiast
Condition: Used???✅Like New✅ Ampere Time 24V 100Ah, 2560Wh Lithium LiFePO4 Battery & Built in 100A BMS
Our used batteries were bought by customers who found that they bought the wrong capacity or did not compatible with their application. - Amperetime-US
Probably going with this battery. Decent warranty for what it is and it seems like others on the forum haven't had any issues with it and the customer service seems responsive. thanks for the recommendation!
yes. like new. 4 year warranty.
Sold out.
I have 3 of those Amperetime batteries (for over a year) and have no complaints. On another note: Just a thought... If you have a long term use for a 24V system (e.g., my shed system) it's a great way to learn. But if you're going to add on to it to any appreciable degree, 48V is, in my opinion, the better path. But people who say your starter system shouldn't exist are, also in my opinion, speaking for their own life, not yours. Do what you wish, once you feel reasonably informed. And good luck! It's a fun and useful hobby.
I will definitely move to a 48v system for my main system. The main system will take a little longer to plan though.
50ShadesOfDirt
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AmpereTime is now LiTime, so if an "ampere time" website or battery, be cautious in purchasing (as AT now implies age and use)? Also, don't forget that the higher amp draw bms's are in the higher aH rated batteries. Another great battery is SOK. Both LiTime & SOK have held up over years of testing and operation at my homestead. SOK has the added plus of being "serviceable" (any component inside can be replaced), whereas the LiTime batteries are "sealed".
I've use AmpereTime, and now LiTime batteries in my house battery-bank(s) for years now, all 12v batteries. Great batteries, great company. They replaced one battery entirely at their cost, when a bms acted up, so great service. Their documentation is nice, and they are very clear on how many can be in series and/or parallel, so their bms's play well together.
On system reference voltages, I'd say go as big as you can afford *and* ensure that your final house battery-bank design can withstand a SPoF, whatever reference voltage you choose. In other words, don't have a single 48v inverter and a single 48v server battery, or any similar combination with a SPoF. Failures, both configuration- and component-wise, do happen. You don't want to be down for days or weeks when this happens, waiting on a return phone call or other crummy service process.
This leads to choosing wisely on vendors, and CurrentConnected and a few others seem to be in the category of "the right stuff" when it comes to buying, servicing, and replacing equipment that has failed.
I've use AmpereTime, and now LiTime batteries in my house battery-bank(s) for years now, all 12v batteries. Great batteries, great company. They replaced one battery entirely at their cost, when a bms acted up, so great service. Their documentation is nice, and they are very clear on how many can be in series and/or parallel, so their bms's play well together.
On system reference voltages, I'd say go as big as you can afford *and* ensure that your final house battery-bank design can withstand a SPoF, whatever reference voltage you choose. In other words, don't have a single 48v inverter and a single 48v server battery, or any similar combination with a SPoF. Failures, both configuration- and component-wise, do happen. You don't want to be down for days or weeks when this happens, waiting on a return phone call or other crummy service process.
This leads to choosing wisely on vendors, and CurrentConnected and a few others seem to be in the category of "the right stuff" when it comes to buying, servicing, and replacing equipment that has failed.
ok thanks. will do.
I would go for a complete diy battery with LFP prismatic cells from china. They come very cheap nowadays and you get 105 Ah cells for 30...40 bucks! Add a bms for 100 bucks and you are ready to go! For 8 cells (= 24V ... 28V) you get 2.75 kWh for a price of 350...400 bucks. I will build a test battery for myself in that region. You only have to worry about correct charging, finding the best process for initial balancing (best in series connection with bms attached, and let the built-in balancer do the work) and handling and settings of the bms. You will surely find your way...
I could try that. may be a good learning experience, but I wouldn't do that for my main system. i would certainly want to use something that was made by people who know what they are doing. Can you put batteries in parallel if they have different BMSes or cell types?
Honestly i have more trust in my own diy batteries than in the system batteries from some doubtable producers. Sure, you will never 100% know how your bms of choice works and if it may get faulty components. The same goes for software, firmware and any release upgrade. I even built some diy smaller size packs completely without any bms attached and they still work. Of course i have to know what i do and ckeck the battery status more often. But i know how i discharge them and what they can take and how to recharge. I guess i even get a better 'feeling' of the battery this way and i know the weak sides (cells). You have to watch and control the bms too and know how to deal with issues. Without any bms there is no etra drain on the long run! But for a bigger battery for daily use i would definetly recommend a reliable bms and i would still check the inidividual voltage of the cells now and then...
As a fellow newbie I am intimidated by the diy lifepo4 option. Be sure to check out the up in smoke forum before you go that route.
One advantage of individual components over the aio is if you purchase things with your 48v goal in mind a lot of your learning system costs will also be your final system cost if things go well.
One advantage of individual components over the aio is if you purchase things with your 48v goal in mind a lot of your learning system costs will also be your final system cost if things go well.
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