diy solar

diy solar

Greetings from sunny Vermont!

sremick

Mostly competent. Knows enough to be dangerous
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Messages
157
Location
Vermont
I'm usually good about posting in an intro forum when I'm new. :)

I'm a hobbyist and native Vermonter. I've always been interested in electronics and have decent fundamental knowledge. I've been very much into solar as well, and being an avid camper (including going to music festivals) I've experimented building my own portable kits starting in 2011-2012 (before you really saw such things available off-the-shelf). My first one was a success and I even made my own folding CIGS array, unfortunately while a fabricating marvel (I crammed everything including the 150W inverter into a little box smaller than a lunchbox) it turned out to be underpowered for my real-world needs. A few years later I built "version II" with a beefier battery, larger (600W) inverter, and off-the-shelf folding 120W solar panels. Turns out the plastic case I wanted to put it all in wasn't big enough and the top broke off from all the weight, but I've continued to use it in "rough" form for many years now with success. However its weight (and untidiness) has long made me want to build a better "Version III" which is what brings me here. Because weight was a factor I started by investigating lithium-ion batteries, learning about the problems and nuances, that lead me to discover LiFePO4 batteries a few years ago. I also hopped on the SBMS Kickstarter early on and snagged an SBMS40 which has sat in the box unused all this time. Since then I've gone through staggered phases of research, periodically changing what I have in mind. After discovering this forum, research swayed me from using the Winston batteries I had been dead-set on for years and use EVE (ordered!).

I also installed solar on my house (garage) within a year of buying my house and until recently was generating more than I consumed. Installing heat pumps changed that, so I'm currently tracking data for a 12-month cycle with the intention of adding more solar panels to compensate and break even again.

Anyhow, I'll be hoping to make use of the collective community knowledge on here to help guide me on building my new portable kit. It has progressed significantly in recent weeks. More stuff ordered or about to be ordered, materials and fabricators chosen, and the whole thing designed via CAD so that I'm not flying blind (this has really helped, revealing a number of necessary changes). I have much to learn, especially the stuff I don't know that I don't know.
 
Okay that is some good background and I will use per cell voltages which you can convert to the correct voltage depending on how many cells you will have in series.

I don't know the details of the SBMS but given that a BMS is used to manage a pack and that half of that management relates to charging lets start there. The EVE cells are LFP chemistry and the battery spec sheet says the max voltage is 3.65 volts per cell. My personal opinion is that my pack will last longer if I only charge it to 3.4 volts. So assuming you want to use that parameter then the first voltage you want to set is the constant voltage setting on your charger. That is often described as the Absorb stage. Based on that you probably have settings for when balancing starts and 3.4 volts is good setting for that. The BMS also may have a high voltage disconnect voltage and that should never be above 3.65 because it is a safety setting. That assumes your BMS can disconnect from the charging source. Another setting relates to current and this starts with a setting on your charger. You do not want it to be higher than the Amphour rating of you battery but half of that would be more conservative. It all depends on your system capability. The charger may have a setting for this constant current stage which is often called Bulk. If your BMS can disconnect then you can set this an Amp or two higher that your charger setting as a last resort disconnect for safety. There were a lot more parameters that you mentioned but those are the big ones for charging. If you have questions after reading this please follow up. I am happy to answer them and then we can move on to other settings for the discharge phase. I presume this system is portable storage that will be idle most of the time and that may affect some of the above. You may wish to increase the charging voltage to maximize it for capacity and some people store LFPs in slightly discharged state for longevity, only charging them to full when they are going to be using them. That is one of the great qualities of LFP batteries.
 
Okay that is some good background and I will use per cell voltages which you can convert to the correct voltage depending on how many cells you will have in series.
I think the post you're really looking for is this one. ;)
 
I have heard that Vermont is doing some interesting things with Powerwalls such as aggregating them. Are you able to take advantage of any of that?
Yeah I was one of the lucky few who got in on that program. So I let the power co draw from them periodically to balance the grid, in return I paid nothing for the install and just a token amount added to each month's bill that is more than worth it to me for the convenience factor (don't have to lug out the generator, don't even have to be home), having the WHOLE house powered during an outage, and being able to leverage my solar panels during an outage. I don't own the PowerWalls though, but I don't really care. When the time comes I'll probably either buy new ones outright or move to something else.
 
Back
Top