Redesign Vermont Yurt System

[YurtSolar]

Yes more standby draw with a larger inverter but Yurt Teacher can turn the larger inverter off when no one is at home or sleeping. They can use the smaller system for (low draw) items that need to be on 24/7?

Oooh I really like that idea @KITROBASKIN . I ended up not getting a larger inverter because I don't have an immediate need for it and it didn't make sense to buy a larger inverter on sale before I need it to save $50 when I might choose to buy a different model to meet different needs in the future. I hope that makes sense? But I could definitely see using one larger only when needed that's genius.

I would not get a switch that can use both because of different battery chemistry and capacity?

If the new LFP batteries are not heated and get below freezing, do not charge them. Reading up on LFP is a good idea.

Good call, I did not think of that @KITROBASKIN . I've been reading about lfp and I'm making a plan to account for temperature swings. So much learning!

That's a good plan. Which is what I would do, too. But OP has very little power draw but does need 24/7. Why buy a large inverter if you're never going to use it? No power tools, no A/C unit, no washing machine or multiple electric heaters. IIRC, OP has said they have a mini-fridge and a laptop and I assume a phone. They could probably get by with the Victron 24/500, but for only a watt or two more in idle draw (and more money), the 24/1200 would be more than enough (and then some) for an inverter.

You are right about all of this @Tomthumb62 . I do use corded power tools every once in a while but I just use my generator in those cases. You are spot on and I think your idea of the Phoenix makes a lot of sense.

Thinking now we don’t have enough information to make an accurate suggestion. Does someone inhabit the yurt all day so that it does not freeze? What specifically does YurtSolar want from a 3000W inverter? For me it would be cooking appliances, occasional space heating and limited power tools.

This is what we currently have:

3500W inverter with a dozen 12V AGM golf cart sized; this handles water well, entertainment, lighting, compact fridge (we also have a propane fridge), occasional power tools, induction cooktop, toaster oven.

600W inverter with two 12V 100Ah LFP that handles 24/7 Viasat satellite internet (primarily). Clouds come in winter, we sometimes turn off when bedtime arrives but usually keep on when we are gone because of security camera internet feed.

In our secondary living area:

300W inverter with 2 AGM 120Ah (I think) for charging phone, water bottle water heater, small TV (short duration viewing)

1200VA inverter with 24V 100Ah LFP for cell phone booster, space heater (brief use), tv when it is cloudy. During the fire season, it is with the truck (including solar panels) where we use it for induction cooking and smaller toaster oven, charging ebike/scooter batteries, some power tools, etc.

Year and a half ago, lightning took out our 15 year old 3500W inverter, so I took measures to create backup (2 of these systems). But the old stanky lousy-output generator that came with the house was given away and instead of spending on another gasoline drinker we got more solar capability and grateful, so grateful. (We curtail electrical consumption during the winter clouds)

This suggestion was so good I had to show my wife! I think this is what we will do when we build our less tiny house. Perhaps a different inverter for different rooms, or different systems sized appropriately for what we need. Great ideas here. I've learn a ton! Also, to your question, most days no one is in the Yurt from 8-4, so I did go with a battery with low temp protection just in case and plan to add a backup heat source for the depths of winter

 

[wme]

Google time, how much of your "stuff" that runs on 120v ac, is available as 12v dc powered. Eliminate inverter loss

 

[Tomthumb62]

Google time, how much of your "stuff" that runs on 120v ac, is available as 12v dc powered. Eliminate inverter loss

It depends.

For us a 12v DC fridge was $1400-2000
We paid $300 for a 120v AC one. Came with a bit of a scuff, Amazon knocked another $100 off. So, $200 total. (plus inverter cost, twas $350, so $550 for fridge+inverter).

Our inverter is 91% efficient.

In our case, that 9% loss is worth it, our solar is big enough handle it (400W of panels flat mounted.)

But some inverters are only 80-85% efficient, so it starts to make more sense in those cases.

 

[yabert]

Google time, how much of your "stuff" that runs on 120v ac, is available as 12v dc powered. Eliminate inverter loss

12V stuff cost so much. Often it don't make sense because solar panel are so affordable now.
Simply add one or two and you can offset by a big margin inverter lost.