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Grounding 12v dc only vehicle system

NowhereVan

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Joined
Jun 19, 2023
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10
Location
Midwest usa
I have no inverter so no ac power. I believe I only need to ground my mppt charge controller to the chassis, can I run the ground wire to the negative busbar and then ground that? Can I ground it anywhere on the vehicle as long as it is metal with no paint? What should I use to ground with, a ring terminal with a self drilling screw and a washer? What type of metal should screw and washer be made out of for best conductivity? Thanks!!
 
Does your charge controller manual state that it needs to be grounded? I looked at mine and there is no mention of grounding. Your battery negative should tie to the frame to handle any loads that use the frame as a current path.

The connection between a frame and terminal is electrically the two surfaces being held together by the screw. The screw doesn't need to conduct any current, it only needs to provide physical pressure.
 
Ok thanks! Yes the manual does say to ground. So I will take it to the neg bus, which I will ground in order to ground the battery. I'll ground the bus with [???] Awg wire with a copper ring terminal screwed to the metal of the van. Does the awg of the ground wire(s) matter?
 
Wire size matches the current. I'm not sure of your setup, so I'll guess; You have a van with a starting battery for the engine. You have a second battery with solar charging. The question is, what does that second battery run and how is it wired. If your lights, fan, fridge are all wired to the negative bus, you don't need a large wire to ground.

If you have a solenoid that would connect your starting battery and aux battery together, then you need a large ground wire to handle the current.

For me, I have a trailer with a lot of battery and inverter. My inverter will pull 150A from the battery so I have big wires between the two but a smaller wire to the frame. The frame wire is just to keep a common reference point.
 
20230729_125254.jpg
Here is my system. 300 amp hours lithium and 200Wx2 PV, 40amp mppt, 60amp dc/dc charger.
2/0 awg house batteries to bus to dc fuse block
6awg bus to mppt
8awg pv to mppt
4awg bus to dc/dc to vehicle battery
?? Awg mppt to neg bus ground
??awg neg bus ground

All my appliances, fans, fridge, lights etc are wired to the dc fuse block which is wired to the bus bars with 2/0 wire
 
FYI - my understanding of grounding in general is fuzzy, so take this with a grain of salt. In a stationary home, be it a "mobile" home or stick-built house, grounding is essential for AC currents and there is a permanent rod into the earth for grounding. In a truly mobile situation, like a camper van, it's literally impossible to actually create a true ground. After all, your rubber tires insulate you from the earth very well and you can't exactly drive a rod into the ground and drive around. So the "ground" in a 12v mobile like a van isn't really a ground. There is some limited benefit to creating a "ground" through the vehicle chassis, but exactly how that benefit relates to safety I don't really understand yet, even though I've been trying to learn it for years (albeit not very hard). The main reason people connect to the chassis is to create a sort of massive negative "bus bar". Instead of running - negative/black wires everywhere, from battery to the loads (pumps, lights, etc), you only have to run one wire, the + positive/red wires. If the vehicle had a separate isolated chassis, then you could use each chassis for a + and - "bus bar".

That said, generally, if your device's user manual doesn't instruct you to apply a ground wire (some have no such place to put one), then don't.

Also @TacomaJoe is spot on about how to attach a wire to the chassis. Bare metal and do not rely upon the screw for conductivity. Heck it could be a plastic screw if it was strong enough plastic like Delrin to withstand the forces of road vibrations! Also, do not place a washer or anything between the ring terminal and bare metal. Direct and solid contact, with enough physical compression from the screw to really push the two surfaces into each other. Normal tightening with regular hand tools is fine, you don't need to pull out the 1/2" air impact wrench. In a high vibration place like a van, it's a good idea to check the screws now and then to make sure they are still tight. Or use lock washers as those work pretty well, too. Stainless steel screws and washers are handy if in a marine or high-moisture environment. In such an environment, it might be a good idea to put sort of ox-guard or even a very thin coat of petroleum grease on the contact surfaces to reduce rust.
 
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