Harakiri37
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2022
- Messages
- 35
Try this files:
Many thanks! I will try and get release notes from Growatt.Try this files:
Hello any updates if the problem was solved?@angelrally @mtts
I flashed my Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM-48P with the F2809_SK051.05_20220104_A firmware and it "Completed Successfully" according to the ISP software but when I restarted the inverter I have a blank screen and no AC/INV, CHG or Fault lights are on. The Fan is running at full speed though, and stays that way.
I've tried completely powering it down and waited 10 minutes etc. to see if its just not fully restarting but no change in outcome.
I have also tried to reflash the firmware using a technique of turning everything off, connecting the USB and starting the flash again. Then turn the batter power back on to allow the inverter to power up. The com board has all the led's lite up for a moment when it first gets power making me think its not likely a com board issue. The ISP software can start the communication. I can see it write the first line and an orange light goes on the comm board. That just seems to stay like that endlessly at this point.
So I am stuck with nothing on the LCD screen and trying to reflash is not working at all. Any suggestions on how to fix this or what I could try next?
Thanks in advance for any help!
UPDATE:
So I contacted Growatt and they said I used the wrong firmware.... the one above is only for the ES version. I was given a new firmware to try and load but I had no luck installing it. They now say I need to replace my control board. They also mentioned "We don't recommend fw update for SPF." Just for completeness of this post I am putting the link they gave me here for the SPF firmware and ISP software (v4.3) but use at your own risk...
Upgrade SPF3000LVM-48 MPPT firmware SOP.zip
drive.google.com
I'm still working with the company I bought from. I will update you guys when I know the final outcome. Looks like I will be able to order replacement control boards relatively cheaply.Hello any updates if the problem was solved?
Thanks, I tried an e mail to Growatt , but had no reply , I wonder if I used the right contact ?You need to contact your seller and get the installer code, or you can email Growatt directly and ask for a code.
I have 3 sticks and install process is quite easy. Follow the .PDF.
Hello I did work mine without the installer code. left it blank. But I used the US shine server instead of CH. server-us.growatt.comThanks, I tried an e mail to Growatt , but had no reply , I wonder if I used the right contact ?
have you an e mail address that works for Growatt ?
I will ask Rosen for a code as well ,
Check your spam/junk folder for their reply as some systems interpret their address as spam. You can reach Growatt USA support at usaservice@ginverter.com. They're usually very good at responding.Thanks, I tried an e mail to Growatt , but had no reply , I wonder if I used the right contact ?
have you an e mail address that works for Growatt ?
I will ask Rosen for a code as well ,
"I got it to flash by following these steps:
After the comms board update my wifi dongle works again on the 500.9 firmware with BMS active (Li setting 02)"
- Switch off all source (PV and AC) input and remove all load. Inverter must only be connected to batteries
- Reset the inverter using the button procedure as described in the fw update procedure docs (pressing 2nd and 3rd button together and entering the password)
- Exit the reset menu and power down the inverter. Power down the batteries as well.
- Disconnect the batteries and remove bms cable if present as well as the wifi dongle.
- Connect the USB cable to your PC and connect the batteries again.
- Power up the batteries and the inverter.
- Flash the firmware file now - mine worked at this stage (finally!)
- Power down everything again, connect bms, wifi dongle, etc. and power up again.
- I guess you can reset to factory settings again with the button procedure as recommended by the flash instructions if need be.
- Configure all settings - now it should work as intended.
"There is a video on how to do it as well as a tips.txt file:
1. connect battery well£¬disconnect grid utility£¬
2. press the second and the third bottom at the same time£¬
3. password 305
4. up or down to page 34
5. press enter bottom to get into rst setting
6. press enter bottom to reset£¬wait for a while£¬it will finish resetting
Basically it resets the device to factory defaults. I found this step is essential when upgrading firmware, before upgrading and after.
The screen going blank after a fw update also happened to me, luckily there is a recovery procedure at the end of one of the update instruction files:
NOTE:
Sometimes updating may fail, you may close the inverter by disconnect battery break and close
ISP tool and disconnect USB line. Confirm the inverter is not power by battery or PV or utility. Then you connect USB line again, and open ISP tool do the same step as above, after you press Flash button, you let the inverter power on. Wait for several minutes the update will go on."
Have you sorted this?I just ran into this thread as I have a similar issue and am hoping to find a solution to my system problems .
Can I ask for advice please on Growatt spf 5000?
When my three li batteries are at 100 % the Growatt inverters shut down = no power !
system :
28 x 400 w panels
2x growatt spf 5000
3x rosen 200a batteries in parallel
settings
USE /batteries
this way I can adjust input/output volttages .
I switch on the panels when batteries are under 50% then as soon as they reach 100%
it all shuts down .
I have tried all kinds of settings but nothing changes .Is this familiar to any of you guys ?
I have just been sent a firmware update but after reading these comments am uncertain whether I should up grade ?
I’m on use settings.added my Outback FM80 with 2700w of panels to help in these overcast days having now. Working perfectly . Monitoring with battery monitor to the Seplos bms x3 and direct usb cable to the inverter with PVkeeper v.2 to the inverter. Bought Solar assistant and just waiting on my Rasberry pi 4 to com in this week and monitor both from that. That’s where I Stop.
No, the problem persists .Have you sorted this?
It could be your string voltage exceeding 450V and the MPPT shutting down.
Rewire your series string so that you do not exceed 450V max power volts, the ratings are usually on the nameplate of the panel.
The key thing is the total voltage of the string. Can you check what voltage range usually appears on your display at max sun?No, the problem persists .
I have considered that I was putting in too much voltage as there are 2x strings of 14 x 400 watt panels, @ 5600w, and thought this might cause a shutdown as takes it just over the SPF capacity of 5000w ?
I can easily take out panels from the strings but will this stop the shutdowns ?
Last week I did take out 2x panels from one string but it shut down when batteries were full , again .
Maybe I,ll take out 4x panels from each string , so 4000w input , this could prove the theory ?
I am running on AGM battery settings ,if I try to set on Li type , warnings start of low voltage on both inverters ,
and no charge goes in ,
I can,t seem to win !
Today I fitted isolator switches to be able to turn the panels off without going over to the array combiner boxes , (30 metres away )
and when removing one of the MC 4 connectors fitted at the end of the 30 metre run from the panels , saw that it had partially melted !!
All replaced now but what would cause that ?
I don't have info on your batteries, I just switched to Li from AGM and discovering the pain of BMS and all that!No, the problem persists .
I have considered that I was putting in too much voltage as there are 2x strings of 14 x 400 watt panels, @ 5600w, and thought this might cause a shutdown as takes it just over the SPF capacity of 5000w ?
I can easily take out panels from the strings but will this stop the shutdowns ?
Last week I did take out 2x panels from one string but it shut down when batteries were full , again .
Maybe I,ll take out 4x panels from each string , so 4000w input , this could prove the theory ?
I am running on AGM battery settings ,if I try to set on Li type , warnings start of low voltage on both inverters ,
and no charge goes in ,
I can,t seem to win !
Today I fitted isolator switches to be able to turn the panels off without going over to the array combiner boxes , (30 metres away )
and when removing one of the MC 4 connectors fitted at the end of the 30 metre run from the panels , saw that it had partially melted !!
All replaced now but what would cause that ?
Thanks,The key thing is the total voltage of the string. Can you check what voltage range usually appears on your display at max sun?
The SPF can take up to 450V as max input
Let's break it down this way
Each of your 400W panel has a Max Power Voltage, multiply that by the number of panels should give you an idea of the voltage getting into your inverter. Assuming each panel has a MaxPowerVoltage of 40V, you only need 11 panels in series to hit 440V.
Try running just 10 panels in series per string (for a total of 20 panels) and see how that works out. Most MPPT chargers can tolerate over wattage since your panels will not be producing 400W each but overvoltage is an issue
I don't have info on your batteries, I just switched to Li from AGM and discovering the pain of BMS and all that!
You may want to post the battery issue as a separate inquiry and someone may be able to help.
What I noticed so far on batteries is that Pylontech is the most popular BMS protocol, try their settings and see what you get