GZ Bolder 100 series connection

[Solarwanabe]

Has anyone tried to connect GZ Bolder 100 panels in series to boost the voltage? What kind of adaptors are required? What is the pinout on the GZ 8mm connectors? I would like to use this configuration to charge the Yeti though a Vitron charge controller.

 

[Bob142]

Welcome to the forum! I've got some questions to help clarify your situation for me:

1. Which Yeti model do you have?
2. How do you plan on connecting the Victron charge controller to the Yeti?
3. Are you only interested in a solution that will maintain the 8mm plug connector on the boulder panels? (I'm curious if you have an appetite for DIY mods to the panels themselves, depending on the answers to 1 & 2)

 

[Solarwanabe]

Currently using a Yeti 1000. The new Yeti X series 1500 (and up) will allow 50V input to the MPPT controller. If I can figure this out I may upgrade to the X series and add the Yeti link hooked to a LFP battery. The option to use the MPPT on the front panel of the Yeti is still desirable. The Victron controller would be connected to the LFP battery (Goal Zero says the LFP will work). By using series panels to input the power I can overcome the issue of too much power loss due to the long cable run and low voltage from the panels in parallel. The panels will be outside and the Yeti inside.

I was thinking of buying either the 4X 8mm GZ female to Anderson combiner or 8mm female from the 8mm to SAE cable and cutting off one of female connectors and then configuring the bare wire with an Anderson connector. I also have a Renogy 100W panel (with MC4 connectors) to which I would attached one of the Yeti Bolder panels negative to positive (in series) and then measure the voltage. But I am unsure of the polarity (pin vs cylinder) on the Yeti panel.

 

[Bob142]

My first thought was to cut off the barrel connector of the Boulders and make them MC4 connectors. Then buy GZs MC4 to 8mm adapter cable. That assumes you still want to use 8mm input on the Yeti. If not then get the MC4 to Anderson powerpole adapter cable. That way you can use your Boulders on anything and any panels with MC4 on your Yeti. Having MC4 connectors on all your panels gives you the flexibility to arrange them in series or parallel and feed them into whatever charge controller or Yeti input you want.

The only concern I have with that approach is that the Boulder wires might be too small to just crimp on MC4 connectors. You may need to add new PV wires from the panel junction box to adapt them to MC4.

 

[Solarwanabe]

Project abandoned. Bolder 100 has a max rating of 30V so series linking will not work (17.2 volts x 2 panels = 34 V). Going to buy some more Renogy 100 panels that spec out at 600V.

 

[Bob142]

Project abandoned. Bolder 100 has a max rating of 30V so series linking will not work (17.2 volts x 2 panels = 34 V). Going to buy some more Renogy 100 panels that spec out at 600V.

I honestly don't understand any of that. The boulder 100 panels and the renogy 100W panels had nearly identical specs last time I checked. What's the 30V max rating and "spec out at 600V" mean?

 

[Solarwanabe]

Ah! that's why we are in the beginners corner. The back panel on the Bolder 100 says 30V max system voltage. The Renogy panels says max system voltage 600V. I assume the design of the electronics on the back if the panels are different therefore different performance specifications. I think I can figure out how to hotwire the Bolder 100 and a Renogy100 panel together in series but it looks like Bolder panels can't take the "heat".

 

[Bob142]

I'm astonished the Boulder's max system voltage is that low.

 

[Forbisher]

Project abandoned. Bolder 100 has a max rating of 30V so series linking will not work (17.2 volts x 2 panels = 34 V).

Ah! that's why we are in the beginners corner. The back panel on the Bolder 100 says 30V max system voltage. The Renogy panels says max system voltage 600V. I assume the design of the electronics on the back if the panels are different therefore different performance specifications. I think I can figure out how to hotwire the Bolder 100 and a Renogy100 panel together in series but it looks like Bolder panels can't take the "heat".

Going to buy some more Renogy 100 panels that spec out at 600V.

You are confused.
Ignore the 600V or 1000V spec on panels which I think only means total system voltage? but has nothing to do with panel specs.

Voc or open circuit voltage is the spec that matters on panels when series connecting them.

100 watt panels are about 21 to 22 Voc.

• Maximum Power: 100W
• Maximum System Voltage: 600V DC (UL) IGNORE THIS
• Optimum Operating Voltage (Vmp): 17.9V
• Open-Circuit Voltage (Voc): 21.6V
• Optimum Operating Current (Imp): 5.72A
• Short-Circuit Current (Isc): 6.24A
• Operating Temperature:-40°F to 176°F
• Panel Lead (Pair): 14 AWG (2 ft long)

 

[Solarwanabe]

Why does the Bolder 100 panel say max system voltage of 30 volts? What does that mean?

 

[Forbisher]

Why does the Bolder 100 panel say max system voltage of 30 volts? What does that mean?

Provide a link to that and are you are spelling Boulder wrong???
What is a Bolder panel?

 

[Solarwanabe]

Sorry, typo. Boulder 100 by Goal Zero. 100 W with a singe 8mm connector. Trying to figure out if it is possible to connect in series.

 

[Forbisher]

Sorry, typo. Boulder 100 by Goal Zero. 100 W with a singe 8mm connector. Trying to figure out if it is possible to connect in series.

Connect in series to what???
Read the manual on whatever you want to connect to. And the Boulder.