Hello from PA USA. Investigating a Camper power build

[FSMLDS21]

Good day folks,

Working through the initial plan for a Camping trailer battery solar build. Thinking of a 24v 2.5-4.0 Kw build. My goals are for weekend power when camping over weekends or long weekends. Currently I'm looking at 2 Plans

• Plan A - Power LED Lights, Propane heater Fan, Hairdryer (1800 watt), Water pot for coffee. This would be for a 2-4 day period during spring or fall so the heater will not need to run a lot.
• Plan B - Includes everything from plan A in addition to a 13.5 Air Conditioner. The A/C would be only for night during warmer nights. Again, this would be spring and fall so the Air Would run very intermittently during the night hours
• Solar Panels – I have not started to look at this part yet.

Questions I'm pondering

• Buying and Connecting all the components vs the 24v all-in-one units like PIP LV2424 MSD 24V 2.4Kw or the Growatt 24V 3kW All-in-one
• Build a 24v 200 ah battery or buy one like the 24V 200AH LiFePower4 Battery by EG4
• How significant is the idle battery drain with the all-in-one units vs a build your own system? I only ask because this is specifically called out as a negative of the all-in-ones.
• On a camping trailer how are the 12v brakes handled? They need a battery not the car harness to work. I think there is a separate small battery that can be added.
• If I’d turn off the inverter can the camper 12 volt devices still operate?
• Quality wise I’m looking to get in this but I’m leaning toward the lower rather than higher priced products. I realize quality and longevity could suffer with this approach.

Thanks for this forum

 

[John Frum]

Working through the initial plan for a Camping trailer build.

What is already there?
Is this a camper with a electric breaking system already installed?
Is there a shore power inlet?
Is there an ac/dc distribution panel?

 

[rmaddy]

What do you mean by "24v 2.5-4.0 Kw- hour"? I assume you mean a 24V battery since you mention a 24V 200Ah battery. When you say 2.5-4.0 Kw-hour are you talking about a 2500W (2.5kW) to 4000W (4kW) inverter? There is no "hour" when referring to inverter sizes.

What do you mean by 13.5 A/C? Do you mean a 13,500 BTU A/C? How many watts does it use when running?

Build a 24v 200 ah battery or buy one like the 24V 200AH LiFePower4 Battery by EG4

This is entirely up to you. Building is likely cheaper but far more work.

If I’d turn off the inverter can the camper 12 volt devices still operate?

The 12V devices make no use of an inverter. They are powered by the battery.

 

[FSMLDS21]

What do you mean by "24v 2.5-4.0 Kw- hour"? I assume you mean a 24V battery since you mention a 24V 200Ah battery. When you say 2.5-4.0 Kw-hour are you talking about a 2500W (2.5kW) to 4000W (4kW) inverter? There is no "hour" when referring to inverter sizes.

What do you mean by 13.5 A/C? Do you mean a 13,500 BTU A/C? How many watts does it use when running?


This is entirely up to you. Building is likely cheaper but far more work.


The 12V devices make no use of an inverter. They are powered by the battery.

 

[FSMLDS21]

What do you mean by "24v 2.5-4.0 Kw- hour"? I assume you mean a 24V battery since you mention a 24V 200Ah battery. When you say 2.5-4.0 Kw-hour are you talking about a 2500W (2.5kW) to 4000W (4kW) inverter? There is no "hour" when referring to inverter sizes.

Yes, I'll edit my original post

 

[FSMLDS21]

What do you mean by 13.5 A/C? Do you mean a 13,500 BTU A/C? How many watts does it use when running?

Yes, 13,500 BTU. I'll have to find out tomorrow how many watts it uses during operation
Thanks for your response

 

[FSMLDS21]

What is already there?
Is this a camper with a electric breaking system already installed?
Is there a shore power inlet?
Is there an ac/dc distribution panel?

Yes, it is a Forest River camper with electric brakes, shore power inlet and an ac/dc distribution panel. My brake concern is not an issue. It will run the electric brakes from the 7 pin vehicle connector and the "Breakaway" brake can be powered by a small battery

 

[MisterSandals]

Yes, 13,500 BTU. I'll have to find out tomorrow how many watts it uses during operation

If you can get the surge/start numbers too, those will be valuable.

Corrected:
I have a 13,500BTU Coleman Mach II(?) and it starts/surges at 25.25A AC, runs at 11.7A.

 

[John Frum]

Yes, it is a Forest River camper with electric brakes, shore power inlet and an ac/dc distribution panel. My brake concern is not an issue. It will run the electric brakes from the 7 pin vehicle connector and the "Breakaway" brake can be powered by a small battery

Next things to check...
See if the trailer break battery is connected to the dc side of the distribution panel.
Also check to see if there is any battery connected to the dc side of the distribution panel.
Finally check the ampacity rating of the converter(usually located in the base of the distribution panel).
If you post a picture of the panel with the door open then model number is probably visible and often indicates the converter ampacity rating.

 

[ianganderton]

I’ll pop this here for when you get to thinking about panels

 

[FSMLDS21]

If you can get the surge/start numbers too, those will be valuable.

Corrected:
I have a 13,500BTU Coleman Mach II(?) and it starts/surges at 25.25A AC, runs at 11.7A.

It is a 13,500 Mach 3 Plus. Locked Rotor? ~50-60 amps, running 12.5-14 amps. I see specs that are a bit inconsistent. when the rain stops I'll try to look on the unit.

 

[MisterSandals]

It is a 13,500 Mach 3 Plus. Locked Rotor? ~50-60 amps, running 12.5-14 amps. I see specs that are a bit inconsistent. when the rain stops I'll try to look on the unit.

Your locked rotor amps look more realistic than what my meter shows with max function on clamp.

 

[John Frum]

It is a 13,500 Mach 3 Plus. Locked Rotor? ~50-60 amps, running 12.5-14 amps. I see specs that are a bit inconsistent. when the rain stops I'll try to look on the unit.

Both the LRA and the running amps seem pretty high.
I wonder if a different air conditioner is indicated.
A 3000 watt high frequency inverter generally has a surge rating of 2x (6000 watts) for ~20ms(~1 cycle at 60hz).
Its doubtful that the inverter could spin up that compressor even if it was the only load.

 

[FSMLDS21]

Attached are specs from my a/c, pictures of my roof for panels, and distribution panel.

 

[John Frum]

Attached are specs from my a/c, pictures of my roof for panels, and distribution panel.

converter is 55 amps so size your dc2dc converter accordingly.
You will want to disable the ac2dc converter or wire it in parallel with the shore power feed.
If you choose the latter you need to add over-current protection for the converter.
Easiest way I have found is a plastic junction box with a breaker like this https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...tter-brumfield-relays/W57-XB1A7A10-15/1628641

As I mentioned earlier the locked rotor amps on the air conditioner's compressor are very high.
I'm thinking you will need a 4000 watt inverter, low frequency preferred which means inverter/charger.
This is a good one https://www.donrowe.com/samlex-evo-4024-pure-sine-inverter-charger-p/evo-4024.htm

There are a lot of items on your roof taking up valuable real estate.

You don't mention if there is a battery connected to the dc side of the panel.

If you opt for the inverter/charger just disable the converter as it will be redundant.

 

[FSMLDS21]

As I mentioned earlier the locked rotor amps on the air conditioner's compressor are very high.
I'm thinking you will need a 4000 watt inverter, low frequency preferred which means inverter/charger.
This is a good one https://www.donrowe.com/samlex-evo-4024-pure-sine-inverter-charger-p/evo-4024.htm

Thanks for the information. Would a soft start on the a/c unit help?

 

[John Frum]

Thanks for the information. Would a soft start on the a/c unit help?

Yes

 

[MisterSandals]

On a completely different note, based on your roof pictures where I suspect you will be placing solar panels, here is an idea.
Your crank up batwing antenna takes a lot of space and is really obsolete (analog) anyway. There is a terrific bolt compatible replacement that takes up less room, is powered, is digital and works great.

Amazon.com

 

[FSMLDS21]

On a completely different note, based on your roof pictures where I suspect you will be placing solar panels, here is an idea.
Your crank up batwing antenna takes a lot of space and is really obsolete (analog) anyway. There is a terrific bolt compatible replacement that takes up less room, is powered, is digital and works great.

Amazon.com

Thanks MisterSandals I probably can just remove the antenna completely Haven’t watched TV while camping

 

[FSMLDS21]

Hmm... Just realized I have another hole in my plan. I wanted to put the system under my dinette seats but the dinette is all in the slide out.