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diy solar

Hello from Upstate NY

Brucey

Solar Wizard
Joined
Feb 11, 2023
Messages
2,223
Location
Upstate NY
Good afternoon everybody. Been reading a bunch of great threads and info here for a while now.

I started my journey/addiction with a River 2 to give my wife a UPS for her hospital bed so she's not trapped if the power goes out. Got a Renogy 115W bifacial panel as a charge source. Then I picked up another River 2 plus 60W ecoflow folding panel that was on sale during Prime days.

However, the limitations in terms of available output power and capacity were soon obvious. As well as the fan noise....

So I ordered a Delta 2 Max when it was at $1499. With an additional 8% coupon basically covering the sales tax. Unfortunately that has yet to ship initially was told end of July now it may be around August 10th...they offered an additional $50 off if I remain patient, if not I can cancel and get refund. The reason I want the d2max is that it's reported to be 30db of fan noise at 500W or less of output/input and a max sound levels of 46dB. Potentially expanding battery capacity using the two scc ports, versus paying big bucks for the d2max extended batteries. This will be in the living room so fan noise is a big consideration.

But now I have started down the path of probable financial ruin. Ordered my first Victron piece. The 12V 30A single output Blue Smart IP22 charger. This will initially be used to charge/top off car/truck batteries, potentially using a river 2 as the AC supply (reducing charge rate via BT to stay at or below the 300W limit of the River 2).

My ultimate goal is a bunch of ground mount bifacial panels, a bunch of diy 48V LFP batteries and Victron goodness to connect it all for the house (need 240V for well pump and AC), other big loads are on propane. Potentially a pair of 5kVA multiplus IIs in split phase or something like that. They will be in the basement so transformer hum/fan noise won't be critical. Grid will remain connected, no export. But with future price increases coming for power I'd like to be able to offset that with solar somewhat. If I have excess power maybe get a freeze drying machine and run batches through that.

Anyway thanks to all for being a great resource and I look forward to learning more.
 
thanks to all for being a great resource and I look forward to learning more
You might consider rethinking the deltar and just getting going on your end goal with scalability in mind. In a five year view you’ll be more power independent and scaling will be easier and less costly imho.

Once you have a ‘critical loads’ subpanel in place and some basic SCC with even a single 100Ah lithium battery and inverter (locally to me that’s about $1500 to accomplish) including some panels that are scalable incrementally you’ll be in a much better position than point of use devices and cords.

That’s my thoughts.
 
You might consider rethinking the deltar and just getting going on your end goal with scalability in mind. In a five year view you’ll be more power independent and scaling will be easier and less costly imho.

Once you have a ‘critical loads’ subpanel in place and some basic SCC with even a single 100Ah lithium battery and inverter (locally to me that’s about $1500 to accomplish) including some panels that are scalable incrementally you’ll be in a much better position than point of use devices and cords.

That’s my thoughts.
Thanks for your feedback. The d2m will also be used in other portable scenarios like truck camping, and around the yard where otherwise we might use a Honda 2kw inverter. Also gives me justification to put a couple 500W panels on a ground mount in the backyard in case code enforcement gets curious. Basically will maximize use of that while I save for the permanent install.
 
Thanks for your feedback. The d2m will also be used in other portable scenarios like truck camping, and around the yard where otherwise we might use a Honda 2kw
That’s reasonable
Also gives me justification to put a couple 500W panels on a ground mount in the backyard in case code enforcement gets curious.
I’m probably essentially parallel or north of you here in Vermont. Ground mount has big advantages imho in that you can create the mounting to be adjustable- vertical in winter, tilt in the other four months.

Actually in planning, winter irradiance is so poor that my panels are currently permanently vertical. You need 3-10 times the panels on average in winter to do anything useful to just get by; you’ll get so much sun over the summer that whatever “loss” you experience by being vertical will be irrelevant.

In winter, our latitude wants like only 15* or so off 90* (vertical=90*) which makes the tilt ‘disadvantage’ minimal during the shortest light hour days. Plus, the panel efficiency goes way up in cold temps giving better output anyways, and with snow and the clear crisp sky on good sun days even my 400W SE array often still makes 70W-200W once they are in shadow during the afternoon.

That’s my take on it. Do what you will but it works well for me and I recommend this approach. People say they melt off snow but observing around me many arrays stay snow covered if temps stay below freezing especially if sun isn’t ideal. Just like some butter or some coffee or some laundry soap is better than none- some charge is better than no charge at all.


Basically will maximize use
 
That’s reasonable

I’m probably essentially parallel or north of you here in Vermont. Ground mount has big advantages imho in that you can create the mounting to be adjustable- vertical in winter, tilt in the other four months.

Actually in planning, winter irradiance is so poor that my panels are currently permanently vertical. You need 3-10 times the panels on average in winter to do anything useful to just get by; you’ll get so much sun over the summer that whatever “loss” you experience by being vertical will be irrelevant.

In winter, our latitude wants like only 15* or so off 90* (vertical=90*) which makes the tilt ‘disadvantage’ minimal during the shortest light hour days. Plus, the panel efficiency goes way up in cold temps giving better output anyways, and with snow and the clear crisp sky on good sun days even my 400W SE array often still makes 70W-200W once they are in shadow during the afternoon.

That’s my take on it. Do what you will but it works well for me and I recommend this approach. People say they melt off snow but observing around me many arrays stay snow covered if temps stay below freezing especially if sun isn’t ideal. Just like some butter or some coffee or some laundry soap is better than none- some charge is better than no charge at all.


Basically will maximize use
Yes I've been thinking of potentially doing vertical bifacials. Potentially a string facing East and another to the West. Or SE and SW. For the open circuit voltage rating on the bifacials, does that take into account the additional output from the back side? So it's a worst case scenario? (notwithstanding cold temperatures bumping it up beyond that). Then no snow removal to worry about (or to a lesser extent hail)
 
SE and SW
Ya, don’t do 90 or 270
For the open circuit voltage rating on the bifacials, does that take into account the additional output from the back side
i believe label values are accumulated front-rear.
So it's a worst case scenario? (notwithstanding cold temperatures bumping it up beyond that). Then no snow removal to worry about (or to a lesser extent hail)
I don’t know what you mean by this.
Vertical isn’t worst case- zero watts is though.
 
Ya, don’t do 90 or 270

i believe label values are accumulated front-rear.

I don’t know what you mean by this.
Vertical isn’t worst case- zero watts is though.
Worst case for voltage calculation. I've been inspired by the guy that has a bunch of bifacial verticals between telephone poles on the edge of a field.
 
Worst case for voltage calculation
VOC is calculated from the mfgr. measurements at 90* irradiance and 77*F
Warmer than 77? Output is less efficient.
Colder? Output is more efficient.
Both affect voltage. Colder and volts go up.

You can calculate cold weather output but I cheat and add 15% to assure the VOC doesn’t exceed max volts of the SCC’s. It’s about right for -30*F with slight headroom/margin.
 
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