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Help sizing an inverter - downgrading from 2000W to 1000W with an AC fridge

Tomthumb62

Solar Wizard
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Hello - I'm trying to determine if upgrading to a Victron 12/1200 Phoenix inverter (rated for 1000W continuous and 2200W peak) will work for my situation. Upgrade in quality/efficiency but a downgrade in watts.

Current inverter is a Renogy 2000W (4000W peak) and has worked fine, but has a stupid high idle draw. Only load is typically a 7.2 cubic foot AC fridge. Occasionally charging a lightweight laptop or phone - no other high-draw devices. Killawatt meter shows the fridge uses 50-75W when running and about 600-800W startup (for about 1 second or less). I realize that these killawatt meters might not be sensitive enough to pick up the actual startup reading, though, hence my question here.

On this page, Victron explains that for inductive loads (googling says that an AC fridge is typically an inductive load, I'm not an electrician), "double inverter size is needed". I think what they mean by that is if my measured startup load is 800W, then I need a 1600W inverter. BUT the spec sheet for the inverter, calls for a 2200W peak power. And on the Victron page I first linked, there's a chart that says "Overload: 200% of nominal power (short-circuit) = 0.5 seconds (30 cycles)"

Am I reading this right that this 1000W inverter should be enough for our AC fridge? Or what exactly do they mean by "double the inverter size" - double of what value?

Reason for wanting to switch inverters is I think 2000W might be overkill and the Renogy uses a whopping 24W idle (we keep the inverter on 24/7, so 576Wh daily right there). The Victron uses only 7W idle and if Eco mode is enabled, it's only 1W - even without Eco, we'd only use 168Wh. This could be enough for us to get by on just one 100Ah lithium instead of needing 200Ah (limited use RV - and on a budget). 400W panels and a charger and generator if needed, though I hate running a generator like the plague and only would do it boondocked away from any other campers, lol.
 
Which renogy?

Get a clamp meter with an INRUSH function to directly measure surge.

In any case, I would expect the Phoenix is adequate, but the above tool would allow you to confirm.

Lastly, eco mode is completely worthless in almost all situations. The fridge requires power to run the thermostat and to decide on/off, so eco mode wouldn't work. It would only work in a situation where you have a manual switch to a device, and you want the inverter to "wake up" when the load is detected.
 
Which renogy?

Get a clamp meter with an INRUSH function to directly measure surge.

In any case, I would expect the Phoenix is adequate, but the above tool would allow you to confirm.

Lastly, eco mode is completely worthless in almost all situations. The fridge requires power to run the thermostat and to decide on/off, so eco mode wouldn't work. It would only work in a situation where you have a manual switch to a device, and you want the inverter to "wake up" when the load is detected.

It's the original 2000W Renogy inverter bought about 4 years ago, without an eco mode. I don't have the exact model number in front of me.

Yeah - clamp meter - been meaning to get one of those, this is a good reason now. Thanks for the tip on the INRUSH feature.

Your comment about eco mode being useless in regards to the thermostat is priceless! I didn't think about the fact that I n eco mode, the there would be no power to the fridge thermostat. That simplifies things a lot. There are several inverters out there with a 9-15W idle draw, which over 24 hours is massive improvement over 24w. We just don't use this enough to quite justify the cost of a Victron. Thank you.
 
Be careful about the marketing value of inverters; especially in vans. At 104°F, this inverter puts out 850w. Peak power being 2x, you could expect 1700w for a few seconds. Assuming the docs are correct, you should be fine with this inverter.

The above link goes to current connected. I like using the Victron spec sheet:
Good point about reduced output in high heat. Our trailer is home made, not insulated and is half metal and half wooden. It gets hot in there in summer, well over 100F easily. This whole endeavor is making me wish we just had a propane fridge!
 
Good point about reduced output in high heat. Our trailer is home made, not insulated and is half metal and half wooden. It gets hot in there in summer, well over 100F easily. This whole endeavor is making me wish we just had a propane fridge!

Being a proud owner of a double wide fridge in the RV, I wish I had a compressor fridge. Sure, it's nice to be able to use propane, but I'd really rather be on AC exclusively when possible...

Typically takes 7kWh/day to power purely by AC.
 
Killawatt meter shows the fridge uses 50-75W when running and about 600-800W startup, it means your fridge max power is 800W,so 1000W pure sine wave inverter is enough for you. The fridge actual starting power is about 10 times higher than rated power,so means 75*10=750W.
Maybe you can try Voltworks 1000W pure sine wave inverter,I just see they are making promotion and price is much better than Victron,and feedback is good too.Its noload current is 0.5A±10%
 
Being a proud owner of a double wide fridge in the RV, I wish I had a compressor fridge. Sure, it's nice to be able to use propane, but I'd really rather be on AC exclusively when possible...

Typically takes 7kWh/day to power purely by AC.

Wow, 7kwh a day, just for the fridge?

Our small 7 cubic foot fridge (much bigger than a dorm fridge and has an actual freezer) takes between 0.5 and 0.8kwh per day in moderate temps. Haven’t tested in the highest heat of summer, but even triple that would only be 2.4kwh. But it’s not a double wide either.

Oh wait, I misread your post. You have a 2- or 3-way fridge and I understand that those are not very efficient running on electricity unlike a modern AC only fridge. Is that correct?
 
Wow, 7kwh a day, just for the fridge?

Our small 7 cubic foot fridge (much bigger than a dorm fridge and has an actual freezer) takes between 0.5 and 0.8kwh per day in moderate temps. Haven’t tested in the highest heat of summer, but even triple that would only be 2.4kwh. But it’s not a double wide either.

Oh wait, I misread your post. You have a 2- or 3-way fridge and I understand that those are not very efficient running on electricity unlike a modern AC only fridge. Is that correct?

Correct. Propane and AC powered (not 12V - only to power the thermostat). I was just illustrating how much energy they use. Absorption fridges use 5-6X the energy of compressor fridges.

Small efficient 10cu-ft compressor fridges typically take under 1kWh/day.

We had a 7.6cu-ft propane/AC fridge in the other trailer... it would use 4-5kWh/day before its cooling unit took a crap. The cooling units are also a large portion of the total volume. You can get 30% more storage in a compressor fridge for the same total volume.
 
Yes generally a 1000 watt inverter will start and run the compressor fridge just fine.
This is the most common size for OEM inverters installed in an RV with a compressor fridge.
 
Yes generally a 1000 watt inverter will start and run the compressor fridge just fine.
This is the most common size for OEM inverters installed in an RV with a compressor fridge.
This is very useful to know. Thank you.
 
Just a thought. If you are running it using a transfer switch to the circuit marked "fridge" be careful. What I found is I have other outlets on the fridge circuit. I run a 1500w psw inverter from Windy Nation. Works well. .5a draw at idle.

Jim h
 
I've been using a Samlex EVO-1212 powering mainly our AC compressor fridge. It is rated for up to 3x surge current so 3600 watts for this model. It works great and is a step up from using an inverter only. It is an Inverter/Charger with built-in transfer switch. The EVO models synchronize with the power line or generator sine wave before doing a transfer so its seamless to the compressor motor. No more locked compressor when doing a manual transfer if the compressor was running.

It has a power saving mode, but the pulsing power does not make other devices I have on it very happy (TV, laptop charger etc) so I leave Power Saving OFF. But also consider your fridge compressor is going to be running for about 1/2 of the time, so the power lost is only half of what you calculated (24W x 12hrs = 288Whrs)

The other thing I like about the EVO series is it's completely programmable. I started with Lead-Acid batteries, then moved to LiFePO4 a couple of years ago. I was able to program the EVO to the proper charge parameters for the LFP batteries without having to replace the entire unit.

Our 1977 GMC Motorhome has an electric water heater. So when boondocking we typically start the generator in the morning to operate the water heater, coffee maker and microwave for about 30-45 minutes. At 60 amp charge rate into the LFP batteries (we have two 100Ahr batteries), I've replaced about 30-45 Ahrs which replaces what the fridge consumed overnight. The 175W solar panel, which goes into the EVO's solar input, helps keep up with the daytime consumption. At at diner time we will run the generator again if needed or maybe a bit later for showers and the EVO charger will bring the batteries up again without having to run it for a long period. The EVO has a State of Charge on the display and I also monitor it on my older Victron BMS700


JWID
 
What brand name 1500w -2000w inverters are good at a less expensive price. I know Victron are good But expensive. This is a quick fix till my 5000es with panels are setup. Thanks
 
$200-$350 something around there. Forgot to say 48v. If it was long term I would buy the Victron. I have 3 48v 100ah batteries and a stand alone battery charger.
 
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