diy solar

diy solar

Help with a system

saltedbeardman

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Joined
Nov 12, 2019
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We currently have a 30' Yurt. I have a full size Samsung inverter fridge, led lights, TV, and misc. Kitchen gadgets. I'm looking at a 5.12kwh kit but I really don't know what I should get. I do know I need something I can expand on. I would like to also run wind considering I live in PNW
 
Have you done a real energy audit yet? This is where you use a killawatt meter and measure your actual usage over a 24 hour period. Without this info, you’re guessing. With only a guess, you’re more likely to end up with too little or too much of a system.
 
Post about the kit you are looking at.
Are you planning to diy?
Are you planning a pre-built unit?
 
Fridge alone is going to consume around 1kwh a day.
Add in kitchen gadgets, any you could easily empty 5kwh in a day.
Microwave, toaster, mixer, air fryer...
How much are you wanting to operate.
 
kWh is a measure of stored energy.
Did you mean to post you were looking at a 5kW inverter or a set of 5kW solar panels?
Or did you really mean 5kWh? As in that's how much battery you are looking at?
 
Power Audit (kil-o-watt meter is a good idea, I have one, great to figure out cyclic items actual power use per day).
There is a good work sheet on this forum by FilterGuy - go to resources, then look on the left side for "System sizing and Power Audit" there is a lot of good info in this resource.
Research is low cost,
Buying a bunch of the wrong equipment is expensive.
Ask lots of questions, we will all help you.
-And welcome to the forum.
 
Power Audit (kil-o-watt meter is a good idea, I have one, great to figure out cyclic items actual power use per day).
There is a good work sheet on this forum by FilterGuy - go to resources, then look on the left side for "System sizing and Power Audit" there is a lot of good info in this resource.
Research is low cost,
Buying a bunch of the wrong equipment is expensive.
Ask lots of questions, we will all help you.
-And welcome to the forum.
Ok so I can buy a meter but can only run fridge for 8 hrs on generator at this time. Can I estimate off of that short time?
 
Have you done a real energy audit yet? This is where you use a killawatt meter and measure your actual usage over a 24 hour period. Without this info, you’re guessing. With only a guess, you’re more likely to end up with too little or too much of a system.
I just ordered a meter but I'm limited to running the fridge on gen for 8ish hours. I'm hoping this will give me an idea.
 
Ok so I can buy a meter but can only run fridge for 8 hrs on generator at this time. Can I estimate off of that short time?

Yes that’s better than nothing but if there are large temperature swings in the room where the fridge is then that can sway your readings.
 
Blurb time!

Well, I'll start the default answer to these questions and we can work from there. Here's you To-Do list:

1: Power audit! This will give you some important information on how big your inverter needs to be as well as how much battery capacity you'll need. There is a link in the FAQ section (I think, or someone here will post it shortly) so fill in the blanks and see what it comes up with. You'll probably need some sort of Kill-A-Watt to get accurate measurements. Are you going to be running a 12v system? 24v system? 48v system? What are the specs on your solar panels? VoC? Vmp? Being as this is a new build, throw together a wish list of what you want and estimate on the high side.

1a: Where do you live? Speccing out a system for Scotland is a LOT different numbers than Arizona due to the amount of light you actually get. Someone here can post the link to the PVwatts.com or JCR Solar Uber-Sun-Hours calculator sites to help figure out how much you'll have to work with. That will be a box in the Power Audit form.

2: Parts list: You don't need a make & model list, just a parts list to start from for reference. You'll need an inverter, a MPPT charge controller, fuses, shunt, buck converter, batteries, wire, etc. Once you have a basic list it can be fine tuned to make & models after that. If you're looking at the All-In-Ones check for correct voltage outputs (120v or 240v Split Phase for North America, 220v Single Phase for European type areas) and make sure it has enough capacity for a little bit of growth and fudge factor.

3: Budget!: Steak is great but doesn't mean anything if your wallet says hamburger. :) Figure out what you're able to spend now vs what you'll have to cheap out on now and upgrade later.

4: Tape measure! Figure out where you're going to stick all the stuff you'll need. A dozen 3000AH batteries sounds great until you're sleeping on the floor because there's no room left for a bed. Is there a compartment that can house all this stuff? Will the server rack batteries fit? Are you going to have to make space? Physics can be pretty unforgiving.

5: Pencil out what you think you need and throw it at us so we can tell you what you've missed (because we ALL miss stuff the first go-round :) ) and help figure out which parts and pieces you're going to want to get.

Well that's the thing about solar systems, there is no 1-Size-Fits-All answer. Your system will need to be designed to fit YOUR needs. When you design and built the system, it's not going to be the perfect system for me, or Will or 12vInstall or anyone else, but it Will be the right system for You and that's the goal.

As for where to get started, let me throw my standard blurb in here to help point you in the right direction. There's going to be a lot of math and research involved, but that's going to be a LOT cheaper than just buying parts off of someone's list and finding out that it doesn't do what you need.

Don't panic on the Power Audit, you'll actually be doing that a few times. When you do the first pass put in ALL the Things that you might want. AirCon? Sure. Jacuzzi? Why not. MargaritaMaster-9000? Go for it.

The second pass will be the "I Absolutely Need This To Survive" list that isn't going to have much on there.

The third pass will be the "This is what is realistic" audit that you'll use to design the rest of the system.

The Power Audit is going to tell you 3 primary things: 1: How big does your inverter need to be to power your loads? 2: How much battery bank do you need to last $N number of days with krappy weather? and 3: How much solar panel will I need to install to refill those batteries in a 4 hour day (the average usable sun hours rule-of-thumb).

Once you know what you Want and what you Need and what your budget can Afford there will be somewhere in that Venn diagram where those three things meet.

After that, THEN you can start looking at parts.

Yes, it's a long drawn out process, but it's worth it in the end. Not every house has the exact same floorplan, not every vehicle is the same make & model, and not every solar system is designed the same.
 
OK, besides that you mentioned you're in the PNW. Where? I have to ask because solar on the western side of the Cascades in WA is COMPLETELY useless different than the solar down in eastern Oregon. Make sure you spend some quality time at the JRC Photovoltaic site and PVWatts to get a good idea of just how much panel you're going to need and which way to face it.

Unless you live along side the Columbia or on the coast, I would just give up on wind right now. It's 99.999% of the time not worth the hassle and just more headache and work and expense than getting a LOT more solar panels would accomplish for less money.
 
We try to keep the yurt above 70 using wood stove during winter
Your fridge energy usage would probably be lower in winter.

I’m talking about a kitchen that’s 90F during the day and 60F at night. But say you run the watt meter during 8 hours at night…you’re going to get a very skewed idea of how much energy it takes to power your fridge over 24 hours.
 
Average fridge use over 24hours is going to be above 1.2kWh in an unconditioned space.
I dont think 5kWh is going to be enough for you.
Unless you get like 3kW or more solar.
So you always have enough to keep the battery charged while the sun is up.
And 3kW of solar is going to need minimum a 60A charge controller.
The all in one lv6548 has two 80A charge controllers, and can be added to as your needs grow...
However, it has a high 75W constant draw, so nearly 2kWh is eaten by the inverter...
Sourcing the right inverter is going to be just as important as calculating your needed storage amount.
 
However, it has a high 75W constant draw, so nearly 2kWh is eaten by the inverter...
When you do the energy audit, include the inverter stand-by draw as a load.
Tier One equipment will cost more (once) but has significantly lower standby current (generally).
In places with reliable daily solar input, high standby currents can be offset with more PV and enough battery to store it.
In places with unreliable daily solar, lower standby may be a critical difference between a system that works, and one that relys on a generator for back up on a regular basis. (generator = expensive kWh).
PVWatts calculator will give you important information to answer this question.
 
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