yes mike you are right I realized that when I saw it hovering around 500. I had another brain fart. The constant switching around of plans and new learning the last 24 hours spun me out a little but I understand how to handle everything now. I believe the 60amp will be a better choice and perhaps keep my DCDC50s around for auxiliary charging like a foldable over the windshield or an outdoor ground arrayAre all 800 watts of solar connectec to the Rover 40?
If so Its way over paneled and is selecting a lower energy on level the solar panel output curve to keep the controller output below 40 amps.
Mike
He said it was (18.1 optimal voltage) per panel. Which makes sense for 12v charging with 1 panel. Never said VOC. Never responded to my request for more specs. or Brand/Model info. So best to guess he made a mistake or has a shaded panel.IME with an RV build, It is very common to have voltage drop. I don’t see a problem with your voltages. I see things like you describe in my RV build.
When you measure this before, you get open circuit voltage VOC because it’s “fake” voltage with no power.
Once you hook it up and it’s working, the voltage will drop to max power voltage VMP. VMP is the voltage at max production. If panels are not working there hardest it will be slightly more. If there’s any shading or clouds it’ll be less.
He said it was (18.1 optimal voltage) per panel. Which makes sense for 12v charging with 1 panel. Never said VOC. Never responded to my request for more specs. or Brand/Model info. So best to guess he made a mistake or has a shaded panel.
3S is a better fit for the 55V result.
18.1v * 4S = 72v
18.1v * 3S = 54.3
55v / 4S =
I go over what I’ve got in the post here but they’re 8 hqst 100watt panels the renogy /hqst brand that will recommends. 18 volts. None of the panels are shaded. Panels aren’t the issue anymore. Panels arrays read 72 volts then drop to 55 when I plug in the mpptWhat panels are you using? Got a link? Got a photo of spec on panel? Are they partially shaded or not all in direct sun?
No shaded panel. No bad wiring. Voltage is 72 until the mppt kicks on and it drops it. Mppt max voltage is 100 so no clue really why this is happeningHe said it was (18.1 optimal voltage) per panel. Which makes sense for 12v charging with 1 panel. Never said VOC. Never responded to my request for more specs. or Brand/Model info. So best to guess he made a mistake or has a shaded panel.
3S is a better fit for the 55V result.
18.1v * 4S = 72v
18.1v * 3S = 54.3
55v / 4S = 13.75
100w Hqst Mono PanelsNo shaded panel. No bad wiring. Voltage is 72 until the mppt kicks on and it drops it. Mppt max voltage is 100 so no clue really why this is happening
Why would that show up when the MPPT controller is hooked up?Could be 1 panel has a shorted bypass diode or installed backwards. Maybe wired backwards.
I have tried to say this 5 times now…….. the panels are wired properly and the voltage is correct until the moment the mppt is connected to the PV. No panel backwards. No shade. No bad bypass diode.Could be 1 panel has a shorted bypass diode or installed backwards. Maybe wired backwards.
He’s absolutely 10000% wrong. It wouldn’t. If the problem originated from the PV the voltage wouldn’t read strong until the mppt is plugged in….. I believe you and @acdoctor are on the right track. Thank you guys for actually reading and then responding to what I said. I will contact renogy when they’re open tomorrow and figure out exactly what it is. I’m also going to order the river 60amp so we’ll see if it happens to that one tooWhy would that show up when the MPPT controller is hooked up?
Still the 10-11 amps. (5 if I remove half the panels). I understand that the panel voltage will move around; But it drops literally as soon as PV is connectedWhen this happens, how many amps is the solar controller outputting?
also, VOC goes down as panel temp goes up. Just as is the opposite (hyper VOC) when they are cold.