Many lithium batteries have specs for max continuous discharge and charge of 1.0C (1 hour to discharge) and 0.5C (2 hours to charge), and allow brief surge higher. I've seen tables for charge current that taper down to zero at 0 degrees C and at a hot temperature. I would imagine AIO are sized to not exceed allowed battery charge and discharge capability.
Lead acid has higher internal resistance, but can still deliver high surge currents (e.g. 10C when starting a car) and good steady-state discharge, but needs to be charged more slowly.
FLA may be optimum around 0.12C charge rate. Shouldn't be too low; needs current to stir electrolyte.
My AGM want 0.2C, may be different from most.
Besides charge rate, lead-acid needs correct CC bulk charge, CV absorption for a period of hours, CV float.
Different batteries have different required voltage to get fully charged. If not charged completely, or if left undercharged for an extended time, they degrade. They also don't want to be too hot. But they are fine in the cold, just need voltage vs. temperature adjustment.
The other thing that affects life is number of cycles to a depth of discharge. Shallower DoD gets more cycles. Not significantly more kWh of lifetime cycling, just larger number of cycles so more years. Except, over about 80% DoD for this battery, you get less total kWh. See chart on last page of technical manual. If you spend twice as much for twice the capacity and half the DoD, it lasts twice as long, until it reaches ~ 10 year float life.
So that says it is cheaper to wear the battery out fast and replace, less time-value of money. Although, replacements may or may not go up in price faster than inflation, get banned by the "green" crowd, manufacturer may get bought by a holding company and purged of expensive workers who know the recipe for quality.
You can make it last longer by using it less. Operate loads on surplus PV while charging/floating battery rather than discharging. Disable loads at night. Have it work like a starting battery, brief burst of current to start motors, then load carried by PV.
My SMA Sunny Island has a reputation for maintaining lead-acid batteries well. Default configuration allows 0.55C but if I followed the manual and put in 100 Ah (at 48V to ~ 60V fully charged) of battery per 1kW of PV, charge rate would be no higher than 0.17C. Because I only installed 40% as much battery, when I discovered that default setting I reduced it to 0.2C. That leaves 60% of PV to power loads or be curtailed.
Your manual describes "inverter priority" which uses PV and battery to supply power down to battery low-voltage disconnect, then switches to utility.
"utility priority" draws from utility when available, then switches to PV and battery.
What I would want but don't see is for PV to be used to the extent it is available, drawing any additional power needed from utility. Only draw down battery if utility is unavailable and PV is sufficient.
Cycling battery even when utility is available will shorten its life. Battery probably costs $0.50/kWh of cycle life, more than just buying from utility.
People with lithium battery may want to cycle battery in order to avoid using utility, because it can cycle thousands of times (although commercial batteries may be too expensive for that to be cost effective. DIY batteries may make sense to do that.)
Hmm, maybe "AON - Auxiliary module ON voltage" and "AOF" come close. With "Solar Priority", battery charging by utility kicks on and off at those two voltages. "Micro cycling" of battery rather than deeper cycling, which would only occur when utility unavailable.
Not ideal, but could help.
Looks like "input" and "output" can each be "solar priority" or "utility "priority", so several choices.
What would be ideal is to hold battery at float while utility is up and use all available PV to power loads, but don't think it can do that.
You'll have to study the manual carefully to select best configuration.
And read battery manual to get charging parameters that need to be set in inverter. Different brand & model Lead-acid batteries are similar to each other, but each has specific voltages and temperature compensation coefficient due to chemistry differences.
And try to turn off loads at night. Inverter has an auxiliary switch which could be used to disable loads when battery isn't near full.
