kenkoh
Solar Enthusiast
Is this safe or how can it be made safer besides grounding? https://bit.ly/38BLlDa
This is for my other bugout cabin.
This is for my other bugout cabin.
How can I make this 600w Safer?
- Thread starter kenkoh
- Start date
kenkoh
Solar Enthusiast
You're refering from battery to SCC correct? Initially I used just a fuse, I now put the breaker as an easy disconnect. If you have a reason why not I'll study. Maybe I should make my breaker 75a and the fuse 80a?
Last edited:
Rider
Solar Addict
Either one or the other, no need/sense for both a breaker and a fuse in the same line. If all the breaker is being used for is a switch, use a real switch.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
Looks nice.
Will you be putting a pre-charge resistor on your inverter disconnect?
Will you be putting a pre-charge resistor on your inverter disconnect?
kenkoh
Solar Enthusiast
I have no idea what that is.
kenkoh
Solar Enthusiast
Link please? Thank you.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
This is the pre-charge circuit for the inverter disconnect.
I like this switch because you can not go from "OFF" to "2", You must go through 1 first.
https://smile.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE/
Or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Perko-Comp...Switch-Disconnect-1-2-All-8511DP/291384612715
This is the resistor I use:
Resistor: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H5GBF2D
I like this switch because you can not go from "OFF" to "2", You must go through 1 first.
https://smile.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE/
Or
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Perko-Comp...Switch-Disconnect-1-2-All-8511DP/291384612715
This is the resistor I use:
Resistor: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H5GBF2D
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
My previous post was about the inverter disconnect. Not the SCC disconnect
kenkoh
Solar Enthusiast
Thank you I'll look into these.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
With the pre-charge circuit, you can turn the switch to one for a second to pre-charge the capacitors on the inverter, and then turn the inverter full on.
TURN ON:
1)Confirm Inverter Switch is OFF.
2)Turn switch to ‘1’ & count to two.
3) Turn switch to ‘All’
4)Turn ON inverter.
(It does not need to be switched to ‘2’, but it does not hurt if it is.)
TURN OFF:
1)Turn Off Inverter.
2)Turn switch to OFF
Notes:
•The switch can not get to ‘ALL’ or ‘2’ without going through ‘1’
•The pre-charg resistor will be mounted on back of the switch.
•Even if the user does not pause on ‘1’ the inverter capacitors will probably be adequately charged.
TURN ON:
1)Confirm Inverter Switch is OFF.
2)Turn switch to ‘1’ & count to two.
3) Turn switch to ‘All’
4)Turn ON inverter.
(It does not need to be switched to ‘2’, but it does not hurt if it is.)
TURN OFF:
1)Turn Off Inverter.
2)Turn switch to OFF
Notes:
•The switch can not get to ‘ALL’ or ‘2’ without going through ‘1’
•The pre-charg resistor will be mounted on back of the switch.
•Even if the user does not pause on ‘1’ the inverter capacitors will probably be adequately charged.
kenkoh
Solar Enthusiast
This is really helpful, spelling it out step by step I'm slow.
John Frum
Tell me your problems
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Oh, so the resister circuit and the direct circuit are in parallel and the electricity prefers the path of least resistance.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
I made a label for the switch to help make it clear how to use it.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
Kinda yes. Once the switch is in the Both or 2 position, the voltage across the resister will be nearly zero, so the current through the resistor will be nearly zero. I say 'nearly' because the direct path will have a very small resistance creating a very small voltage.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
I do not have a 'built' one on hand but you can see how the resistor can be glued into the back of the switch and hooked up between the '1' and 'Common' posts.
kenkoh
Solar Enthusiast
Got rid of breaker https://bit.ly/3bLablY
Rider
Solar Addict
Post #8
Rider
Solar Addict
Ok, this may not work in all cases. On my AIMS inverter, the caps don't accept (pre-charge) until it's turned on. When you turn the unit on, THEN the caps charge. Until it turns on, nothing happens. So in your example and config, moving the switch to position 1 will do nothing on my inverter. I would have to:
move the switch to Pos 1
turn on the inverter
move switch to position 2
turn on A/C load.
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
For a 12 volt system, I have been using a 3 ohm 25 watt Resistor: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H5GBF2D
However, I have been thinking about going to either a 6 ohm 25Watt or a 3 ohm 50 Watt. The reason is this: If someone were to leave the inverter on and the switch in the pre-charg position, a lot of current could go through the resistor for an extended time.
(Since I have a few of the 3 ohm 25W, I might just do two of them in series.)
The lower the resistor, the faster the precharge will happen, but the higher the current in a 'bad' situation.
Having the inverter on with the switch in precharge can not be good for the inverter, but at least the resister would be properly sized for the wattage it would be drawing.
For a 24 volt system, I would go with a 6 ohm 50watt or a 12 ohm 25W
FilterGuy
Solar Engineering Consultant - EG4 and Consumers
Are you sure of that? Some of the inverters talk about 'soft start' to minimize current surge, but that is on the output not the input. Every inverter I have used has the on-off switch after the capacitors. (They don't want to deal with the surge either ☹ ).
Rider
Solar Addict
Pretty sure. When I get a chance, I'll review it and run a few tests.
Unfortunately this is still to low if you want to be able to handle the switch left on the precharge position as 24 / 12 = 2 A and 2 * 24 = 48 W.
Even if you put a 12 Ohm 50 W or 24 Ohm 25 W resistor you'll have to mount it on a heatsink as in free air this type of resistor can only dissipate about 1/3 of their rated power (and that's at incredibly high temperatures too, usually 200 °C).
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