diy solar

diy solar

How EXACTLY does the EG4 3000 tie into the breaker panel?

Nice drawing! I wish I had the ability to do that.

Should stick to the breaker size listing in the manual for sizing AC in and AC out. You can use a 100a sub panel* even if you feed it with a 40a breaker so long as you keep in mind that it is a 40 amp max service. Your line 5 would have a breaker where it comes off the Main and should be drawn in the Main Panel. That way there is no question of back feed. You might also want to label AC In (5) and AC Out (2) so there is no question of current flow.

* panel ratings are based on max service and they can always be used for less. Just like you can have branch circuit breakers in the panel that add up to more than what ever the panel is fed with. Breakers are sized to protect load and wires feeding loads.

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SOLVED!! Thanks for your help, Matt!

Here's the Signature Solar response to my last layout:

Good afternoon,

This looks like a solid system as long as the "Sub panel" is intended to be the critical loads panels, and the "Main AC" is the panel that is supplying AC to the AC INPUT of the inverter.

Keep in mind the only panel that should have a ground neutral bond in this situation is the "Main AC" since it is the first point of disconnect after the source. To be clear, the main panel would not be used for solar loads, the subpanel would be. The main panel would be what is supplying AC power into the inverter if Grid bypass or battery charging from the grid was needed.

Thank you

Technical Support
Signature Solar LLC
1130 Como St South
Sulphur Springs, TX 75482

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a generator manual transfer switch is what you need. you feed the transfer switch generator input from the EG4 then feed the critical loads from there.

a transfer switch will allow you to change the input from generator(PV) or the grid. you need this type of interconnect to prevent any possibility of backfeeding PV power to the main panel.


some people go with a critical loads subpanel, but IMO... this is a simpler route as it allows you to select specific circuits to put on PV or the grid as needed. some people go with automatic transfer switches. it all comes down to how much $ you want to spend.
I have had one of these on my house since 1999 (we were worried about Y2K lol) and it has worked flawlessly since. We use it for hurricanes or ice storms when we lose power.
 
Thanks for being so patient, Matt.

I should have labeled the Main AC—it's what #5 is attached to above the Breaker Panel. Everything else is labeled on what I've got, I just didn't want to clutter up the drawing with all the labels for you. The 100A breaker on the left is from the solar panels (I know, they look like batteries, but are panels). The ground on the solar panels is a lightning rod. Signature Solar suggested that addition as a cutoff if needed. The 100A breaker on the right is the cutoff going to the critical load panel that I expect the panels to supply. The product info says that a 40A breaker is all you need for one EG4 3000 but if you want to put more than one in series, you need a 100A breaker. I eventually want to add, so I thought I'd start with a 100A breaker. Should I not?

With the EG4-3000 Signature Solar has assured me I don't need a transfer switch. It is an all-in-one that is programmed to control the flow from the solar panels to the battery or appliances, and if the the battery gets low and there's not enough solar power to run appliances it will feed the solar power to the battery and run the appliances with the Main AC, much like an automatic transfer switch. That's why the Main AC has to run directly to the EG4 unit.

The grounds go to the subpanel and the Main AC via the EG4 3000 according to the manufacturers literature and there are places to attach the ground wire in the unit.

Does that make things more clear?
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Still on? Result? Found this thread and interested in final wiring diagram and outcome. -m
 
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