diy solar

diy solar

If you had a chance to build from Scratch on a new RV, what would you do?

BobaVette

New Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2023
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1
Location
Hoover, AL
My Wife and I are buying a new Vibe 34XL (Extra Long) It comes with either 190 or 200 Watts to power the 12v system. I was thinking of going over the top with the rest of the real estate on that roof. If you were to design a 2023 system today, what would you do?
 
Since you have slide outs on that RV you'll need 12 volt power and probably a fair amount of amps. If you stick to a 12 volt system (12 volt batteries, inverter, etc) then you can avoid having to purchase a hefty 24-12 step down converter to support a large amp load.

How much solar you put up depends on how much space you have and the battery size and load. You should start with a power audit to know what you really need for the system. Putting in a system that will run the air conditioner for long periods will be very expensive. A system that will run everything but the air conditioner is likely less than half of that cost.

Making a CAD drawing of the roof and all the obstructions will give you a good reality check for what size and quantity of solar panels you can put on the roof.
 
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I have a 2007 Topaz 35 foot fifth wheel. I kept my 12v system intact for the 12v needs. I am presently instslling a Samlex evo 4248sp inverter with a 300ah 48v battery for my ac needs when unplugged. Eventually I plan to cover the roif real estate with solar. The plan is to be able to boobdock for several days to not having to hook into shore power at all. I don't know if this is what you are looking for. Just food for thought.
 
I was already at 13'5", so going over the crap on the roof was a non starter. If you can, cover as much as you can with solar. I went with 24v panels, as they have a slight advantage in less than favorable conditions. Push the volts up to 80% of controller max volt. You can go over that, but get out the calculator and work with temp coefficient to determine the exact voltage for being in cold temps. I used two controllers, one on pass side, other on drivers side. Watch out for shadows from aircon and vents on the roof.
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I was fighting roof realestate as well as battery space. I started off with two 100ah batteries and have regretted it ever since. My decision at the time was sound, but I would have been better served with something different.

If I were to start over again, I'd seriously consider 24v battery bank over 12v. That's kind of minor. I'd look at physically bigger batteries too. I might look real hard at rails to mount the panels to.

I over sized the large wires, and had them professional constructed. That was a really good decision. Bought a ratcheting crimper for the smaller wires.

System is exceeding all of my expectations, but I spent a lot of time in this very deep rabbit hole.
 
Remove the factory A/C units and replace with mini splits. Use the new roof space to fill it with solar panels... 2400 watts... put in a 12kw 48v lithium battery with appropriate solar charge controller, 48-120 inverter and a 48-12v converter. It is a huge conversion, especially if you have to pay someone else to rig it up for you....
 
So much depends on how you use it!
Are you parking in RV Parks with Hydro most of the time, Are you boondocking for short periods or long periods?

Personally we are boondocking in very remote area's but we typically move every 2 or 3 days. I have a DC2DC inverter installed which charges at 50A's while the truck is running. So with the 300AH or 12V batteries I have enough for about 3 days stay. Then we drive 3-4 hours up the road and are mostly charged up again.

I was convinced when I started I would put 1-2KW of solar on the roof. After a season with it I now think I might put a single 3-400W panel on the roof just to top up.

I am not suggesting you don't need solar. Just think about how you use it before you try and design your system.

Have you camped much before? If so describe your trips a little!
 
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