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If restarting from scratch knowing what you know now, how would you build your system differently?

OM617YOTA

Solar Enthusiast
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May 27, 2021
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Very new at this, but already several things on my side.

1. 48v, not 24v. Lower cost, higher capability, better expandability, more future-proof. Unless you're a vanlifer and need easy 12v interface, pretty much everyone should go to 48v.
2. Skip the all-in-ones, do individual components. Not convinced the MPPT's are as effective as they could be, and idle current of two AIOs is dumb for my small system.
3. Probably not DIY my batteries from cells and a BMS, pre-built batteries are only slightly more $$/kwh and FAR less hassle.
4. Go bigger. My system will do everything it was spec'd to do and then some, but very little more $$$ would build a system capable of more, and more expandable.

What about you?
 
Had this for a while now and still working just to power the pool pump.
Now working on this to hopefully power the HVAC and most house loads. I hope to finish before my bonus years are depleted, lol.
 
"If restarting from scratch knowing what you know now, how would you build your system differently?"

I wouldn't do anything different.
But, I put in a lot of research, before buying anything.

Maybe that should have been #1 on my list, do more research before building. The idle consumption of the AIOs is the only thing I'm really kicking myself over. Burn a kwh overnight, just running the AIOs.
 
I am mostly pleased with my setup and that is 24vDC and AIO's . I tried the route of separate components when i first investigated PV years back and frankly find them limiting in comparison. My AIO's could be better if they were stackable for 240vAC but they suffice for my needs.

What I would do differently would skip all the experimentation and learning and know exactly what would work best. How would I know what I needed if I skipped all that effort and money? Magic.
 
Starting today and seeing the imminent death of Net Metering, I'd look for equipment capable of peak shaving, managing PV/battery vs. grid for power needs and rate arbitrage. (My system is grid backup with Sunny Island.)

I would consider LiFePO4, to support daily cycling. (My system has AGM, at the time 1/5th the cost of lithium and 1/5th the cycle life.)

I would use larger conduit and plan more carefully where to "T" off it, so I don't end up with wires carrying power back and forth through the same section, exacerbating conduit fill limits.

I am fairly happy with the capability and robustness of Sunny Island/Sunny Boy.
But it has stumbled when switching on/off grid with current higher than a single SI's relays can pass through. And it doesn't like poor PF of cheap VFD (so will look for PFC in future appliances purchased.)
 
I would have a dedicated power room and metal conduit on the roof. I look forward to eventually getting rid of most if not all of the microinverters, even if I have the losses of an AIO to add back in. Oh... and 50% more annual production than consumption on the PV side.
 
I would have a dedicated power room and metal conduit on the roof. I look forward to eventually getting rid of most if not all of the microinverters, even if I have the losses of an AIO to add back in. Oh... and 50% more annual production than consumption on the PV side.
The room, big time. I wouldn't change what I've done solar wise, but I would have built my house differently had I known solar was in my future.
 
Very new at this, but already several things on my side.

1. 48v, not 24v. Lower cost, higher capability, better expandability, more future-proof. Unless you're a vanlifer and need easy 12v interface, pretty much everyone should go to 48v.
2. Skip the all-in-ones, do individual components. Not convinced the MPPT's are as effective as they could be, and idle current of two AIOs is dumb for my small system.
3. Probably not DIY my batteries from cells and a BMS, pre-built batteries are only slightly more $$/kwh and FAR less hassle.
4. Go bigger. My system will do everything it was spec'd to do and then some, but very little more $$$ would build a system capable of more, and more expandable.

What about you?
Had purchased a pair of LV6548's and decided to move array farther away from the house. Ended up going with a pair of EG4 6500EX's and that wasted about 100 hours of my time. I ended up installing the LV6548's and as I only ran enough wire for the higher voltage series strings, I had to install a pair of EG4 MPPT100-48HV charge controllers because my wife said she wasn't pulling wire.

It worked out in the end. I actually like the standalone SCC's, it means less heat from the inverters which may help extend lifespan.

Only other thing was at the PV array, I should have cemented in another conduit at the base to allow wires from another array to be ran to the box. MT Solar mount.jpg
 
Very new at this, but already several things on my side.

1. 48v, not 24v. Lower cost, higher capability, better expandability, more future-proof. Unless you're a vanlifer and need easy 12v interface, pretty much everyone should go to 48v.
i would argue that even vanlife should be 48v. unless you don't have AC and are doing all of your cooking/heating with gas you will need a robust power system. plus gas is messy and dangerous. a bare minimum all electric system can be done with with 12v but just barely. if you want a robust all electric system then you will need 48v. that being said it is unlikely you can completely escape the need for some 12v power but you can keep that demand small enough to utilize the vehicles 12v batteries, especially if you "max" out the vehicles 12v system, which is usually just 2 AGM batteries. you an even toss on a little 12v SCC with a 50 or 100 watt panel mounted somewhere. this is my plan and i'm thinking about incorporating a 100 watt flexible into either the wind fairing for the roof's main solar array or even on the hood of the van.
 
3. Probably not DIY my batteries from cells and a BMS, pre-built batteries are only slightly more $$/kwh and FAR less hassle.
I am so torn on this. I have been thinking about and procrastinating on my system for years and have thus far avoided 1 and 2 only by being so slow to take any steps at all.

A battery is my next step, and on one hand I am not sure that I really want to get deeper into batteries themselves as a hobby, but on the other hand I think it might be nicer to have huge 15kwh batteries, rather than a rack full of 3x more 5kwh's to pay attention to. And I don't know if SOC comm to the inverter/sc will be important to me or not.
 
I am so torn on this. I have been thinking about and procrastinating on my system for years and have thus far avoided 1 and 2 only by being so slow to take any steps at all.

A battery is my next step, and on one hand I am not sure that I really want to get deeper into batteries themselves as a hobby, but on the other hand I think it might be nicer to have huge 15kwh batteries, rather than a rack full of 3x more 5kwh's to pay attention to. And I don't know if SOC comm to the inverter/sc will be important to me or not.
Once you scale up in size, DIY makes a huge difference. Both in pocketbook but also serviceability and options for a BMS and possible BMS control of outputs.
 
Once you scale up in size, DIY makes a huge difference. Both in pocketbook but also serviceability and options for a BMS and possible BMS control of outputs.
That's how I just changed my mind again recently. I had been thinking for a while well I'll just get one 100ah to start but then as much as that would be fun to play with I was looking at the end goal and realizing I really need to get to 30-50kwh in the end.
 
Once you scale up in size, DIY makes a huge difference. Both in pocketbook but also serviceability and options for a BMS and possible BMS control of outputs.
for a ground based system DIY batteries can be a valid choice, however, for an RV not so much. i've not done a deep dive into DIY batteries recently but a quick cursorily scan showed me that the batteries i would want to use for a DIY are the same price or more than a pre-built system. in this case i would want compact light weight batteries which usually cost more.
 
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