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Inverter question - and my system plan

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LaneW

New Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2023
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Idaho
I am considering buying a 2000 watt inverter. Looking at Renogy, but I don't find that Will has reviewed this one - Hoping for feedback on my plan, which is to install 2, 100 ah SOK batteries in my truck camper with the Renogy combined DC-DC/MPPT charger - and this inverter. My max inverter load will be my Microwave which is 900 Watts withe 1350 rated input power. Any advice?
 
LaneW said:
I am considering buying a 2000 watt inverter. Looking at Renogy, but I don't find that Will has reviewed this one - Hoping for feedback on my plan, which is to install 2, 100 ah SOK batteries in my truck camper with the Renogy combined DC-DC/MPPT charger - and this inverter. My max inverter load will be my Microwave which is 900 Watts withe 1350 rated input power. Any advice?
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That should be fine. Is this a 24V system? The microwave by itself would pull 38A at 24V, so check the spec to ensure it can sustain this. You will need a fuse to protect the MPPT input and output to the battery. Your cables would be sized to the total inverter output unless you will upgrade in the future and ensure fuses are below the cable current rating.
 
JCSchwarb said:
That should be fine. Is this a 24V system? The microwave by itself would pull 38A at 24V, so check the spec to ensure it can sustain this. You will need a fuse to protect the MPPT input and output to the battery. Your cables would be sized to the total inverter output unless you will upgrade in the future and ensure fuses are below the cable current rating.
Click to expand...
The nameplate draw is 1350 watts.
Renogy doesn't make a 24 volt inverter.
1350 watts / .85 conversion factor / 10 volts low cutoff = 158.823529412 dc amps.
The nameplate rating probably doesn't cover the starting current which could be 1.5x the number above.
 
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Its my policy to design for the full continuous output of the inverter.
2000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 10 volts low cutoff = 235.294117647 dc amps
235.294117647 dc amps / .8 fuse headroom = 294.117647059 fuse amps
That means 2/0 awg pure copper wire in free air with insulation rated for 90C or higher and a 300 amp fuse.
The fuse should be MRBF or ANL.
A Class t fuse is not required for a 12 volt LFP system.
You will need another battery to cover the full draw of the inverter.
 
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Why another battery, the OP has two SOK 100Ah rated at 100 A output each in his 12v system and his maximum inverter load is 1350 watts.
The guy most likely has a limited budget, hence the Renogy equipment. How about 1 awg cable and a 200 amp fuse?

Mike
 
mikefitz said:
Why another battery, the OP has two SOK 100Ah rated at 100 A output each in his 12v system and his maximum inverter load is 1350 watts.
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Because as I said its my policy to design for the full continuous output of the inverter.
I assume everyone has a teenage son, daughter, niece or nephew.
mikefitz said:
The guy most likely has a limited budget, hence the Renogy equipment. How about 1 awg cable and a 200 amp fuse?
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1 awg is kind of an oddball size because it is so close to 1/0 awg.
Since its a 12 volt system OP may well have some additional DC loads.
1/0 awg with a 250 amp fuse would be better.
 
OK, you guys are a bit over my head, so bear with me. I am not looking for an inverter/charger, just inverter. This is in a 2022 Lance 825 truck camper which has an on board charger so I didn't think I needed an inverter/charger. No teenagers :) and I really don't need to run much of anything except the microwave - maybe small appliance, coffee pot, hair dryer, etc. Regarding your questions/comments:

This is a 12 volt system, not 24.

Budget: No I am not on a limited budget really, but being practical on the cost of something that I will really only use on occasion to run the microwave. That said, if I do this, I want to do it right - hence my questions.

Batteries: I'm concerned about the comment about adding another battery. I don't want to put in the two 100 ah SOKs and find out later that its not enough or the inverter wont run the MW. I was of the impression that 200 ah total was fully adequate - if not I need to know for sure.

Cabling: The ones I am looking at all come with cables. I know I need to make sure that they are pure copper, but other than that, are the ones that come with the inverter adequate? I assume so or they wouldn't sell them that way.

Brand: I am also looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-220...la-869259553347&ref=&adgrpid=93124985039&th=1

Considering it because its a little smaller and has 200 more watts - and Will Prowse recommends the brand. Should I be looking at something different?

Thanks all
 
LaneW said:
Cabling: The ones I am looking at all come with cables. I know I need to make sure that they are pure copper, but other than that, are the ones that come with the inverter adequate? I assume so or they wouldn't sell them that way.
Click to expand...
Throw them out with the packing peanuts.
They will be undersized and have lugs that are crap.
2000 watts at 12 volts nominal is not to be taken lightly.
 
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LaneW said:
Considering it because its a little smaller and has 200 more watts - and Will Prowse recommends the brand. Should I be looking at something different?
Click to expand...
Not really a fan of the brand.
Don't forget to include the proper ventilation clearance.
 
The wires as shown in the amazon link are crap.
Please don't use those.
 
LaneW said:
Yes, you did and I appreciate it. But I am not as knowledgeable as you are, so I don't understand your math and explanation. Maybe you can dumb it down for me?
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Instead of dumbing it down how bout we teach you so that you understand?
If you are amenable I would be glad to explain each part.
Do you understand what volts, amps and watts are?
How about their relationship to one another?
 
Those "small" appliances are quite a large load for a 12v system. The wiring gauge sizes will be very large. Those items would be more efficiently run on a 24 volt system. It could be done, but as John says, you will need to deal with large amp loads.
 
I don't know that I can/want to run 24 volts in what is currently set up as a 12 volt camper?

John, yes, I understand the very basics of volts (power, force), amps (amount of power) and watts (load) and that amps x volts = watts. But thats about it. Feel free to inform me, if you wish. Fundementally, I am just trying to figure out if I can safely power my MW with the inverter to warm up a meal. I do get it that a hair dryer may draw too much, and that factory cables may be undersized and may not be pure copper, same with connector hardware.
 
LaneW said:
Yes, you did and I appreciate it. But I am not as knowledgeable as you are, so I don't understand your math and explanation. Maybe you can dumb it down for me?
Click to expand...
I spent days researching, reading and learning before I designed my own PV system. Granted, I have a background in electronics and electrical wiring so it may have come easier to me. My point is that you seem to want others to do the hard work for you. We are all here to help, but you have to to some of the heavy lifting. If you don't want to, then simply pay someone in the business. There are plenty of people willing to take your hard earned money.
 
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