Is my set up safe?

[Dzl]

Class T and MRBF are two that are often used for main battery protection and/or inverter circuits. These also tend to be the two types I've seen recommended by inverter manufacturers.

Edit: Personally I wouldn't bother with any shenanigans with the cheap breakers, I understand your desire here, but its the wrong place to pinch pennies I think. Particularly because even with the cheap/knockoff 250A breaker, you are still 50A shy of the inverter manufacturer recommendation of 300A.

If you properly size your main battery fuse, there is little chance of it ever blowing unless there is a big problem, in which case reset vs replace is the least of your worries.

 

[Solarfun4jim]

Class T and MRBF are two that are often used for main battery protection and/or inverter circuits. These also tend to be the two types I've seen recommended by inverter manufacturers.

Cheers DZL. I'm not sure these are as readily available in UK, but i will cost out online.

 

[Dzl]

Cheers DZL. I'm not sure these are as readily available in UK, but i will cost out online.

I believe blue sea is internationally available and they supply MRBF not sure about class T (or equivalent). To be clear these are fuse types not brands.

Also, edited my previous comment to add more, if you didnt catch taht reread the last paragraph.

 

[Solarfun4jim]

I believe blue sea is internationally available and they supply MRBF not sure about class T (or equivalent). To be clear these are fuse types not brands.

Also, edited my previous comment to add more, if you didnt catch taht reread the last paragraph.

Found a supplier of MRBF fuses in UK...so have ordered those. Cheers for your input DZL.

 

[John Frum]

Would it be worthwhile adding a cheap 300A megafuse inline, so that if the breaker didnt trip, the fuse would blow (as a belt and braces senario....cheaper than $120 for a 'quality breaker') ???

If you are considering that I would suggest a fuse and a disconnect switch.
I'm partial to marine rated battery fuses because they go right on the battery positive terminal which pretty much excludes the possibility of an upstream short.
Class t are expensive but have the best interrupt rating that I know of.
The other safety equipment that I've started recommending is a fire extinguisher.
I also suggest you get an IR thermometer to check each connection point while stress testing the unit.

 

[John Frum]

What size terminals does your battery have?

 

[Solarfun4jim]

What size terminals does your battery have?

I believe it is an M6 screw (xuba 280Ah cells)

 

[John Frum]

I believe it is an M6 screw (xuba 280Ah cells)

Mrbf works best with m10-3/8"
How bout an anl or class t?

 

[Solarfun4jim]

Mrbf works best with m10-3/8"
How bout an anl or class t?

MRBF already ordered. Will simply run a 300mm length cable with the m6 connector at one end and a m10 connector at the other. Battery screw one end, m10 bolt&nut through the fuse holder.

 

[John Frum]

MRBF already ordered. Will simply run a 300mm length cable with the m6 connector at one end and a m10 connector at the other. Battery screw one end, m10 bolt&nut through the fuse holder.

That's too long.
The fuse should be as close to the terminal as possible to minimize the chance of a short upstream.

 

[Ryang]

The recirculating shower is simply to use as little water as possible, but still have more the a two minute shower. The run off from the shower is passed through a basic canister sponge filter(each user has there own sponge & disinfected in milton between uses). A small pump simply pushes the water flow back through the shower head. If you start off with 0.6 litre of water boiled from microwave and you add it to 1 litre of cold water, you can then prime the whole system with approx 1.5 litre of 40 deg c (approx) shower spray. After a days hiking in the hills, a spray down and a rub with a sponge using nice warm water...is a luxury....lol. You can stay under the shower till the water turns too cold, or you can have a jug of warmer water in the shower to 'top up' the heat. Not perfect....but beats carrying gallons of water for showering.

Thats a fantastic idea. we waste so much van water on showers!

 

[Solarfun4jim]

That's too long.
The fuse should be as close to the terminal as possible to minimize the chance of a short upstream.

What length would you think ok? I have these already on their way, so not keen to order others. Any other 'safe' fixes you can think of?
Thanks for your input.

 

[Ryang]

That's too long.
The fuse should be as close to the terminal as possible to minimize the chance of a short upstream.

are you suggesting something like

TYPE 3 Stud, oil strainer cover/size, Stainless Steel, M6/M8 x 21 - N0144781SS | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for TYPE 3 Stud, oil strainer cover/size, Stainless Steel, M6/M8 x 21 - N0144781SS at the best online prices at eBay!

www.ebay.com.au

directly onto the battery, and having the fuse holder hanging off it?

 

[John Frum]

are you suggesting something like

TYPE 3 Stud, oil strainer cover/size, Stainless Steel, M6/M8 x 21 - N0144781SS | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for TYPE 3 Stud, oil strainer cover/size, Stainless Steel, M6/M8 x 21 - N0144781SS at the best online prices at eBay!

www.ebay.com.au

directly onto the battery, and having the fuse holder hanging off it?

I wasn't suggesting anything but what you are suggesting looks pretty nice.
Ideally it should be m6->m10 though and bottoming out in the hole could be an issue.
I would expect lots of folks here are using this https://www.waytekwire.com/item/45575/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-MRBF-Mounting-Bar-/ on an m6 post.
If the application is stationary its probably ok.