diy solar

diy solar

Learn from A to Z diy battery construction

Remember it’s a journey not a race keep researching stuff on the forum and asking questions you will get there it just takes time
I get to feeling like I am asking too many dumb questions. Hope I don't wear you guys patience out.
 
Would this be the sort of suitable converter?
Yes
BUT, if I was to build either 4 12v units or 2 24v units then join them in series, apart from the extra cost of having multiple bms, would that be a feasible solution to getting 48V?
you can but not going with native voltage you can run into battery balance issues and you have to be sure they can be put is series but a additional balance unit can be used to solve that problem
 
Yes

you can but not going with native voltage you can run into battery balance issues and you have to be sure they can be put is series but a additional balance unit can be used to solve that problem
Hmmmm, might have to look at a way to lift a 16s setup into the locker. Might be time to start welding up a new design
 
I have lost track of the number of times I have rearranged things. Agree with build in place. Did that with my 24v batteries and definitely would do if I switched to 16s
 
Would this be the sort of suitable converter?

Due to the weight of 16s cells as one battery, it would be just about impossible for me (I am 70) to be able to get it into or out of the bus solar locker.

BUT, if I was to build either 4 12v units or 2 24v units then join them in series, apart from the extra cost of having multiple bms, would that be a feasible solution to getting 48V?
I’m close to your age and I’m lift limited myself. The general consensus around here is if you need 48 or 24 volt lithium batteries, buy 48 or 24 volt batteries. Eventually one battery will be out of balance to the others when they are put in series. You can buy a battery balancer (not to be confused with a bms) they are not perfect but they work, it just adds something that can go wrong. I’d probably recommend several EG4 48 100 ah sealed types in parallel. The are for marine and RV, have an app, 200 amp bms, about 85 pounds. Yes those little converters do work well, but get the largest version in that style(fined). For some reason they are more efficient than the mid sized. Test it with load, the last unit I got couldn’t do half of the load. You could possibly put several in parallel. Do fuse it!
IMG_1176.jpeg
 
Lower Ah packs are smaller & lighter, put multiple into parallel to get the total capacity you need, while each individual battery is not too heavy.
 
8s pack would come in at about 50kg. That's probably my top lift limit but would be manageable. Geez I have so much rolling around my head right now.

Thanks for the help
 
Been digesting all these great answers and looking through the forum to get more info.

So I reckon that all the equipment I already have is compatible with building a 48v system with a 48/12 converter.

The only things requiring change are the inverters because they are both 12v only.

Looking at a Victron Quatro 5000w the cost is prohibitive, $3800 AUD + but a Growatt SPF 5000 ES comes in at $1280 AUD.

I am sure there are many others out there, but I distrust glossy advertising.

So 2 questions.

1 do the experts here think my revamped plan is feasible and doable.

2 any experiences, technical advice or recommendations on what inverters I could look at for value, longevity, and suitability?

Thanks everyone.
 
Keep in mind the a converter by itself may not have current available to drive the macerating toilet. To charge a lead acid battery will need something smarter than just a step down converter.
 
8s pack would come in at about 50kg. That's probably my top lift limit but would be manageable. Geez I have so much rolling around my head right now.

Thanks for the help
An 8s pack of 25Ah cells will be much lighter than an 8s pack of 50Ah cells. There are options to keep the weight you have to lift lower.
 
Keep in mind the a converter by itself may not have current available to drive the macerating toilet. To charge a lead acid battery will need something smarter than just a step down converter.
Would a 12v deep cycle do the job, or maybe a smaller capacity lifepo4 say 50ah maybe?
 
A 50ah AGM will be maintenance free, high current and inexpensive. AGM does not need a desulfurization cycle and once charged it’ll be happy at float indefinitely. As for charging I wouldn’t consider anything less than this 48 to 12 volt Victron Orion because of its adaptability/configurability for any kind of battery. As for AGM batteries, I would stay away from all batteries with the shiny black case with white writing or grey with black writing(China). Most of those have given AGM a bad reputation. I don’t know if it’s an available down under but I’ve had excellent experiences with VMAX batteries. If kept at near full charge(float) expect 8 years or more. This is all you need to take the punch of the macerator, anything less the Orion takes up the light continuous load and charge duty, all powered from the main lifepo4 battery(s).
IMG_1177.jpegIMG_1178.jpeg
 
Thanks skypower,
I think I am starting to build a better picture. That Orion converter is a bit more expensive but would integrate nicely with the other Victron components I have.

Once again thanks for taking the time to educate me. ?
 
I like Victron stuff. I’ve worked with it but don’t presently own any. The apps for an old fart like me are logically designed. For RV and marine it seems to be the best stuff and most commonly found. You get what you pay for. Other stuff could under charge or slow cook your battery.
 
Yup, cept I am looking at 280ah cells. I need the watt hour capacity.
If the pack will be 'too heavy' then use parallel sets of smaller cells, ie instead of 280Ah cells in a single pack of 8s, build/buy two packs using 140Ah cells for example, and the weight per pack will be about half as much. Easier to lift and move around, if that is still a concern. My own ESS is now 68kWh made up from 6 separate 16s packs. But I seldom need to move any of them.
 
Keep in mind the a converter by itself may not have current available to drive the macerating toilet. To charge a lead acid battery will need something smarter than just a step down converter.
If I have a 48v bank, and a step down to 12v converter, to a 12v battery, with the 48v being constantly charged wouldn't that also then be charging the 12v battery?

I just tried a small 70ah 12v gel battery I had hanging around and handles the maceration toilet fine.
 
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