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LifePo4 Auto starter battery

Don’t use Lifepo the bms is not rated for that type of loads also temperatures below freezing is a issue they say good to -22f this is only possible on a self heated batteries which is not mentioned in the specs and if it is if you let the car set for any period of time you will end up with a dead battery
go with a good agm battery you’ll be happier
 
Don’t use Lifepo the bms is not rated for that type of loads also temperatures below freezing is a issue they say good to -22f this is only possible on a self heated batteries which is not mentioned in the specs and if it is if you let the car set for any period of time you will end up with a dead battery
go with a good agm battery you’ll be happier
I installed an Earthx on an aircraft. Fist size lithium ion battery inside an Odyssey PC680 size plastic shell. It was lightweight! Started a 540cuin engine well. Burnt up the 60A alternator from over current during recharging and finally replaced with pc680 again. Cut the earthx apart. The dinky BMS had been overheated a lot. Yeah, manufacturers will sell you a $4-500 battery that they know won’t hold up and will destroy alternators. Stick with lead for starters. Note: Add a dc charger. Then you add more weight which cancels out the 12 lb one saved by going Lithium. More complexity, greater chance of a fire. Not good all the way around.
 
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Well more digging and it seems that the battery is for cars that have auto stop/start as they don't need a bunch of power to restart after a stop.
I guess I'll stick with my $80 WalMart special.
 
This has been discussed quite a few times here...
In short, a Lithium battery (whether it be LI-ION or Lifepo4) is not a good "drop-in" solution.

Yes, some high end car manufacturers (Porsche, BMW, Tesla, just to name a few) are starting to migrate to Lithium in newer models.
But, this is because they can design the car around it (alternator, charging scheme and voltages, etc...).

Most Lithium batteries will either kill the alternator (or at least shorten its life) or be killed themselves (high heat in the engine bay, charging scheme not meant for Lithium, charging while freezing).

The BMS is always a "last resort" protection and shouldn't be used (or abused) to control improper charging.
 
I installed an Earthx on an aircraft. Fist size lithium ion battery inside an Odyssey PC680 size plastic shell. It was lightweight! Started a 540cuin engine well. Burnt up the alternator from over current during recharging and finally replaced with pc680 again. Cut the earthx apart. The dinky BMS had been overheated a lot. Yeah, manufacturers will sell you a $4-500 battery that they know won’t hold up and will destroy alternators. Stick with lead for starters.
Yeah, and another "surprise" with LiFePO batteries sold for airplanes is their deceptive advertising of "lead acid amp hour equivalent" figures. They are BS. If the alternator in your plane crumps and you need juice to run the EFI, fuel pump, ignition, radio, etc, then you want the real amp hours to get you to a safe landing, not some marketing BS "equivalent" (and you won't much care if you run the AGM battery down to 10V while getting to a runway--buying a new battery is a pittance in the grand scheme of things).
 
The only starter batteries that I have seen that I would halfway trust were ones for motorcycles & ATV's. They had a real high starting amperage and a few other features, but were pretty darned expensive.
 
Yeah, and another "surprise" with LiFePO batteries sold for airplanes is their deceptive advertising of "lead acid amp hour equivalent" figures. They are BS. If the alternator in your plane crumps and you need juice to run the EFI, fuel pump, ignition, radio, etc, then you want the real amp hours to get you to a safe landing, not some marketing BS "equivalent" (and you won't much care if you run the AGM battery down to 10V while getting to a runway--buying a new battery is a pittance in the grand scheme of things).
Fortunately, most aircraft have a lot redundancy built in if the builder/manufacturer wants to prolong their life/end users life. This particular one has an AGM to run avionics. The engine has a mechanical fuel pump and two magnetos. About 400 Inrush Amps to crank.
 
The only starter batteries that I have seen that I would halfway trust were ones for motorcycles & ATV's. They had a real high starting amperage and a few other features, but were pretty darned expensive.
i have a first gen yamaha fz1 and the charging on it is very poor. the motor was designed for racing in the r1 bike, now it is in a street bike. and the generator can not cope with having lights on it. (stop bike, turn lights off). the bike's motor was never meant to power lighting.
so i say i will stick to the cheap lead acid units. as i can buy many to the cost of one lifepo4, and it will not last very long any how. but with the bike tipping the scales at almost 500 pounds, what's a pound or two. easer for me to go on a diet, and drop 20 pounds... and far cheaper.
 
Looking at these:
Group 27 size: 54ah capacity, claims 1200CCA's! $400
Claims 600Amps of starting power. 7AH battery! $160
Claims 1000CCA's... $600

RV Application:
The rated power draw of the engine's starter is 300amps (big ol chevy-GMC). The (old, unused) onboard generator - 350amps. Wondering if that NOCO would be a drop-in replacement? I don't need a lot of reserve power, since the main system is on 10kw of 48v LFPO.

The KEPWORTH would have more reserve.. The DAKOTA would be premium, but spendy. Want to get rid of the FLA's entirely. Right now there is an FLA up front on one charger, and an FLA in the cabin for the 12v side of things, with a NOCO 5amp charger on a simple timer that turns off for 15 minutes throughout the day to reset it's charging system. It's inefficient, and FLA's are garbage at efficiency, maintenance and lifespan.
Review of KEPWORTH with teardown:
 
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Just thought i'd put it out there, BYD 125ah Cells are rated to charge at -20C and can deal with up to 3.8V per cell.

Has anyone used them yet?
 
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