Living with the DuroMAX XP9000iH

[Encrypted]

I bought this generator (the Duromax xp9000ih) in May 2023. I test ran it on propane for about 20 min then, ran fine. Just had our first 30 min power outage and it again worked great. I slowly unloaded the circuits down to zero, disconnected the cable, then shut it down using the rocker switch. After it fully stopped running (engine was still), I heard a VERY loud bang - much louder than the sound the generator makes while running. Now, the start light will no longer come on, and pressing the button does nothing.

My question to those of you that have had blown solenoids - is that what I heard? I haven't had time to open it up yet and look for what it may have been, but will after work. Just wondering how loud a solenoid is when it goes, or maybe if I have a different issue.

[Edited year 2024->2023, lol thanks @Symbioquine ]

 

[Symbioquine]

I bought this generator (theDuromax xp9000ih) in May 2024.

Welcome time traveler!

After it fully stopped running (engine was still), I heard a VERY loud bang - much louder than the sound the generator makes while running. Now, the start light will no longer come on, and pressing the button does nothing.

My question to those of you that have had blown solenoids - is that what I heard? I haven't had time to open it up yet and look for what it may have been, but will after work. Just wondering how loud a solenoid is when it goes, or maybe if I have a different issue.

I'd be surprised if the solenoid makes a loud bang noise when it fails.

However it is pretty easy to get these generators to backfire when running on propane if you shut off the generator via the start/stop button (or fob). I believe this happens because the start/stop logic controls the choke, starter, and spark separately from the fuel solenoid (which appears to get activated when in propane mode and the engine is spinning). Thus, some unburned fuel can still flow past cylinders and into exhaust system after the stop logic has shut off the spark. If the muffler is still hot enough, it ignites the bit of propane and causes a loud bang noise which might have been what you heard.

Tip: That backfire is pretty easy to avoid if you manually turn off the propane and let the generator run out of fuel and turn off that way.

That said, I've never had any apparent damage from my generator backfiring and I can't explain why - if it was a backfire you heard - the generator would stop functioning after that.

I'd still check the fuse for the fuel solenoid though since that's a pretty easy thing to diagnose and would produce the behavior you're seeing now. (dead panel, not starting, etc).

 

[Encrypted]

Welcome time traveler!



I'd be surprised if the solenoid makes a loud bang noise when it fails.

However it is pretty easy to get these generators to backfire when running on propane if you shut off the generator via the start/stop button (or fob). I believe this happens because the start/stop logic controls the choke, starter, and spark separately from the fuel solenoid (which appears to get activated when in propane mode and the engine is spinning). Thus, some unburned fuel can still flow past cylinders and into exhaust system after the stop logic has shut off the spark. If the muffler is still hot enough, it ignites the bit of propane and causes a loud bang noise which might have been what you heard.

Tip: That backfire is pretty easy to avoid if you manually turn off the propane and let the generator run out of fuel and turn off that way.

That said, I've never had any apparent damage from my generator backfiring and I can't explain why - if it was a backfire you heard - the generator would stop functioning after that.

I'd still check the fuse for the fuel solenoid though since that's a pretty easy thing to diagnose and would produce the behavior you're seeing now. (dead panel, not starting, etc).

Thanks!
I just went out and tried it on my lunch break, and it actually started up again. So it had to be as you described, a backfire. I hadn't shut the gas off first, so this tracks with gas hitting the hot muffler. I couldn't fathom how a spark could have ignited gas in an unmoving engine. The CO2 light was not lit, so it wasn't that.

All that said, this thread now has me quite worried that I shouldn't run this unit on propane as it is a ticking time bomb. I'm going to reread everything again and perhaps post some follow up questions.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Encrypted]

Since my solenoid is clearly still ok, I suppose the lingering questions I have are:
1) How well is the motorized ball valve working out for folks that primarily use propane fuel? Any problems other than backfiring on shutdown?
2) Is it possible to identify if any particular unit has been 'updated' to not have this solenoid issue, or do we just wait for failure?
3) I am guessing that getting Duromax to proactively fix a unit that hasn't failed yet is probably a lost cause. Anyone try?

I think my best course of action is to have the motorized ball valve and fuses on hand, and wait for the failure. Would be ideal not to have to do emergency repairs in a blizzard though.

 

[Symbioquine]

1) How well is the motorized ball valve working out for folks that primarily use propane fuel? Any problems other than backfiring on shutdown?

I don't know if anybody else here has done the same, but the motorized ball valve is working fine for me. (I only use propane.)

The main downside I've noticed is that it is a bit slower than the solenoid so it more frequently takes the generator a little longer to start. i.e. it cranks for a few seconds then waits and cranks again - at which point it starts. Occasionally it takes in the first cranking attempt, but rarely. Similarly, it takes a few more pulls to start if you use the pull cord.

I don't think I've ever had a backfire when I shut down the generator by turning off the propane so the backfiring issue may or may not be a problem depending how you use the generator.

2) Is it possible to identify if any particular unit has been 'updated' to not have this solenoid issue, or do we just wait for failure?

Wish I knew. I have two units one that already has a failed solenoid and one that does not yet. Will update here if the second one also fails the same way. (Though so far this season I've put most of the hours on the first one - the one with the motorized ball valve. 102 hours on the first unit as of yesterday vs 21 hours last season on the second unit - basically just broken in and started occasionally to test since.)

3) I am guessing that getting Duromax to proactively fix a unit that hasn't failed yet is probably a lost cause. Anyone try?

I'd guess probably a lost cause. Though if your solenoid fails they might just send you a whole new generator like they did for me. (Might be an ethical issue to go down this path once you already know it is easily fixable by reading this thread. Your call. FWIW I didn't know then and DuroMAX didn't walk me through troubleshooting the fuses even though I indicated I has happy to do that sort of thing.)

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, the unit they sent me under warranty was actually manufactured 10 month earlier than my first unit that had the failed solenoid. However since that unit's solenoid hasn't failed yet, it is possible they modified that generator while it was in their inventory to fix the issue. Maybe there's some revision number on one of the boards that I haven't noticed yet that might lend a clue. I'll try to look next time I have them torn apart - though I can't say when that might be.

 

[Encrypted]

Thanks again @Symbioquine
I have the parts ordered to be ready for the failure if it happens. I plan to replace it myself if it dies for the faster turnaround time. I am skeptical if they would even honor the warranty since I cannot register with a Canadian address.

Folks are saying there are 3 fuses that might need to be changed - you mentioned the specs on the first one (F15AL250V), which I already have lying around. Do you know what the other two fuse specs are? I'd rather not remove the panel just yet until I have to.

I assume when you replaced the solenoid, there was enough slack in the gas lines for you to simply cut near the solenoid, and install the new barb/NPT fittings. I took a look last night, my solenoid matches your picture identically, so I think I'll have enough slack to do this as well (if I need to).

 

[Symbioquine]

Folks are saying there are 3 fuses that might need to be changed - you mentioned the specs on the first one (F15AL250V), which I already have lying around. Do you know what the other two fuse specs are? I'd rather not remove the panel just yet until I have to.

One of the other fuses is for the 12v (cigarette style) socket on the front panel so you can put any reasonable size fuse on that e.g. 5A/7.5A/10A. I think it might be a 10A, but I'm not sure. In a pinch you can also "borrow" that fuse as part of the solenoid replacement fix (make sure to actually replace/disconnect the solenoid first) as long as you don't intend on using the front panel 12v output socket.

I can't remember what the third one is for or what its size is though.

Maybe worth noting, I swapped my solenoid fuse/holder out for a standard automotive ATS fuse/holder which I already keep on hand for other reasons. I used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DHT8Y7/ Just double-check the actual operating voltage on that third fuse (the first two are 12v nominal) if you end up going that route, the ATS fuses are only rated for 32v I think.

I assume when you replaced the solenoid, there was enough slack in the gas lines for you to simply cut near the solenoid, and install the new barb/NPT fittings. I took a look last night, my solenoid matches your picture identically, so I think I'll have enough slack to do this as well (if I need to).

I didn't cut it IIRC. I just slid it off the old barbs and onto the new ones. Not sure if there is enough slack to cut the hoses.

 

[rdekema]

I'm having a similar problem to the one described here - there's voltage on the battery terminals of my XP9000iH, and the connectors are clean and solidly connected, but nothing will light up on the front panel.

I took the front panel off and tested the three glass-tube fuses that I found behind it, but they are all intact.

Anyone have any other ideas of things to check? I would think to start probing with a multimeter, but I can't find a pinout for any of the connectors back there so I'm not sure what I should even be looking for and where.

 

[Symbioquine]

I'm having a similar problem to the one described here - there's voltage on the battery terminals of my XP9000iH, and the connectors are clean and solidly connected, but nothing will light up on the front panel.

I took the front panel off and tested the three glass-tube fuses that I found behind it, but they are all intact.

Anyone have any other ideas of things to check? I would think to start probing with a multimeter, but I can't find a pinout for any of the connectors back there so I'm not sure what I should even be looking for and where.

There's a rudimentary wiring diagram earlier in this thread that might help with figuring out what to probe.

The simplest thing to check first would be that all the connectors are fully seated and that kind of thing. Next, I'd look visually for signs of a failure like burn marks around any of the components on the circuit boards (though they might be potted so that wouldn't be apparent).

Another thing to check is whether the 12v positive is coming through on the ATS plug. (The partial pinout for the plug on my unit is also earlier in this thread.)

 

[Biggermanj]

Either of these;

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0Q4QYI/ (If you want to stick with a solenoid valve - which is not rated for continuous duty and will probably fail again as I described in the OP.)
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9LWXMW/ (If you want to convert to a motorized ball valve - which is rated for continuous duty.)

Also get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082YSCGC2 so you don't have to try and get the old fittings off. (It's really hard.)



If it failed the way I think it did, then the fuel solenoid was already fried. When that happens the fuel solenoid acts like a short circuit and pulls too much current. Normally, the generator is "protected" from that by the fuse behind the panel blowing. If you bypass that fuse without fixing the root cause (the solenoid) and without at least switching to gasoline (which doesn't use the propane fuel solenoid), then something else in the system is likely to fail due to the unexpected amount of current flowing through that path.

The best case scenario is that the pin that melted off in your pictures acted like a secondary fuse. In that case you might be able to simply re-attach the pin and fix the other problems (solenoid and fuse) to have a working generator again.

Re-attaching the pin would involve somehow getting the circuit board out of that shell (without damaging it further) and re-soldering the pin back into the board. Depending on how stuck on the potting material (that black stuff is) it might or might not be feasible.

What I'd recommend doing is; fix the other one and keep the one that you tried to hot-wire for parts.

Is the motorized ball valve difficult to install? Thank you!

 

[Biggermanj]

Either of these;

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0Q4QYI/ (If you want to stick with a solenoid valve - which is not rated for continuous duty and will probably fail again as I described in the OP.)
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9LWXMW/ (If you want to convert to a motorized ball valve - which is rated for continuous duty.)

Also get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082YSCGC2 so you don't have to try and get the old fittings off. (It's really hard.)



If it failed the way I think it did, then the fuel solenoid was already fried. When that happens the fuel solenoid acts like a short circuit and pulls too much current. Normally, the generator is "protected" from that by the fuse behind the panel blowing. If you bypass that fuse without fixing the root cause (the solenoid) and without at least switching to gasoline (which doesn't use the propane fuel solenoid), then something else in the system is likely to fail due to the unexpected amount of current flowing through that path.

The best case scenario is that the pin that melted off in your pictures acted like a secondary fuse. In that case you might be able to simply re-attach the pin and fix the other problems (solenoid and fuse) to have a working generator again.

Re-attaching the pin would involve somehow getting the circuit board out of that shell (without damaging it further) and re-soldering the pin back into the board. Depending on how stuck on the potting material (that black stuff is) it might or might not be feasible.

What I'd recommend doing is; fix the other one and keep the one that you tried to hot-wire for parts.

Is the motorized ball valve difficult to install? Thank you!

 

[Symbioquine]

Is the motorized ball valve difficult to install? Thank you!

It's not hard. IIRC, you just have to take off the panel on the right (exhaust) side, remove the hoses by loosening two hose clamps and pulling them off the barbs, swap the wiring and hoses over to your new valve, and put the cover back on.

Obviously, you can make it a bigger or smaller project depending how nicely you want to do it. There's an argument for finding/making some sort of bracket to hold the new valve securely, rather than just having it floating around in there. You could also take the easy route for the wiring with some Wago lever nuts or do a nicer crimped/heatshrunk splice to the existing wires.

 

[Biggermanj]

It's not hard. IIRC, you just have to take off the panel on the right (exhaust) side, remove the hoses by loosening two hose clamps and pulling them off the barbs, swap the wiring and hoses over to your new valve, and put the cover back on.

Obviously, you can make it a bigger or smaller project depending how nicely you want to do it. There's an argument for finding/making some sort of bracket to hold the new valve securely, rather than just having it floating around in there. You could also take the easy route for the wiring with some Wago lever nuts or do a nicer crimped/heatshrunk splice to the existing wires.

Thank you! Last question... I saw a lot of discussion about the current from the switch, do you think the ball valve solenoid will be effected by this or will it blow a fuse in the panel? Also, should I buy new barbs or will the old ones come out of the old switch okay. I'm no expert, but I'm willing to give this a shot because I want to use the propane. I so appreciate your advice!! Thank you!

 

[Symbioquine]

I saw a lot of discussion about the current from the switch, do you think the ball valve solenoid will be effected by this or will it blow a fuse in the panel?

If you mean a motorized ball valve, then no, it should not blow the fuse. Motorized ball valves like the one I linked to earlier in the thread tend to use less power when actuating than the OEM solenoid and almost zero power the rest of the time.

should I buy new barbs or will the old ones come out of the old switch okay

As I indicated earlier in the thread, I recommend buying new barbs (also linked) since I found the original ones did not want to come off the OEM solenoid. As a bonus, that makes it trivial to switch back to the OEM solenoid later if you run into trouble with the install.

I'm no expert, but I'm willing to give this a shot because I want to use the propane. I so appreciate your advice!! Thank you!

I'm not an expert either. I think it's a pretty easy job if you're handy with tools and such, but obviously don't blame me if you break your generator or hurt yourself.

If you do proceed, let us know how it went and maybe take some pictures to help the next person who is considering the modification...

Good luck!

 

[Biggermanj]

If you mean a motorized ball valve, then no, it should not blow the fuse. Motorized ball valves like the one I linked to earlier in the thread tend to use less power when actuating than the OEM solenoid and almost zero power the rest of the time.



As I indicated earlier in the thread, I recommend buying new barbs (also linked) since I found the original ones did not want to come off the OEM solenoid. As a bonus, that makes it trivial to switch back to the OEM solenoid later if you run into trouble with the install.



I'm not an expert either. I think it's a pretty easy job if you're handy with tools and such, but obviously don't blame me if you break your generator or hurt yourself.

If you do proceed, let us know how it went and maybe take some pictures to help the next person who is considering the modification...

Good luck!

No blame here... I really appreciate your help! Thanks!!

 

[Biggermanj]

So I have everything apart, but I noticed that I have a 3/8" valve not a 1/2" so would it hurt if I were to use that by installing a coupler to reduce the fitting on the front down to a 3/8? I was also wondering if I could simply use a manual 3/8" valve, if I did that I could run a brass pipe to the regulator and put the manual ball valve on the outside of the generator.

I have the XP4500ih generator btw....

 

[marionw]

The "Fuel Solenoid" is used to open the fuel line to the carburetor when the generator is starting/running and closes the fuel line when the generator is stopped. Can the "Fuel Solenoid" simply be disconnected (or add a small inline switch) when running on propane? Propane has an entirely different flow path through the carburetor.

 

[Symbioquine]

So I have everything apart, but I noticed that I have a 3/8" valve not a 1/2" so would it hurt if I were to use that by installing a coupler to reduce the fitting on the front down to a 3/8?

I don't know if that would restrict flow enough to be a problem. Otherwise, I'd imagine the main concerns would be how well it physically fits in the engine space and whether you can get the whole thing together so it doesn't leak (since you're adding more overall connections and failure points).

I was also wondering if I could simply use a manual 3/8" valve, if I did that I could run a brass pipe to the regulator and put the manual ball valve on the outside of the generator.

Yes and no. Doing what you describe will probably work, but I suspect it will make the generator a bit more dangerous since you're now relying on the operator to do an extra step as part of shutting down the generator. I don't know how much more dangerous though. I assume there's some risk of propane leaking through the engine and collecting somewhere then exploding, but in practice that might be a 1 in a million scenario... your call.