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EM5000SX, modify for auto start and run off aux tank.

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Solar Wizard
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Nov 14, 2021
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So some of these open frame Hondas have auto choke. Thus makes them super easy to turn into auto start. This one also has a 6 pin connector designed to hook into a WIRED remote control panel which also makes it easier.

Modifications:

1) Interrupt starter cranking once voltage is present on 12V charging outlet. This is done with a relay with n/c contacts that open once 12V is applied.

2) Install relay that applies battery power to 12V outlet while cranking to power/prime auxiliary fuel pump. Once 12V is output by charging outlet coil, the relay receives power and switches over normal 12V charging coil. This powers the aux fuel pump. The fuel pump stops running if engine stops running.

3) Only 4 pins on 6 pin connector are used. Added 2 more pins to monitor battery voltage and starter on signal. This allows for overcrank to be detected.

The controller resides in the plastic box and harness connects to 6 pin connector on generator. Might be hard to see the thermistor at the generator air inlet but it monitors temperature of the air getting pulled into the Gen head.

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Just using 30 amps for now. You can see fuel pump power harness hooked to battery charging outlet posts. So as said above, those posts recieve battery power while cranking then normal battery charging coil power once running. Power then runs into box where there is a voltage stabilizer since the 12 charging port receives unregulated power.
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Auxiliary pump. Just pumps right into carb. Took fuel line off tank valve and just connect with 1/4 to 1/8 barbed adapter. Easy peasy. Pulls through a fuel water separator from a 120 gallon tank.
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All lives in this hut. A recycled modified 66KVA generator enclosure.
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This is the controller a Tycon TPDin

The multiplus applies voltage to one of the voltage monitoring ports to control start and stop. Voltage stabilizer for fuel pump in upper left corner and hour meter installed in door.
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Here is the monitoring page. You can name stuff whatever.

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Here is one of the relay control pages. You can see you can adjust action based on voltage, amperage time etc.
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Lastly, you can do email alerts. The box emails me if gen bat voltage gets low, if overcrank is detected, when start is commanded and when gen stops. All configurable to your liking. Also emails me and stops generator if thermistor temp at gen inlet gets too high.

Can also start generator manually by toggling relays.

This setup only uses two of the relays where my Yamaha used all four with the other two relays controlling choke and economy mode.
 
Neato. That's a great write-up. Regarding the fuel pump, do you have a link to it? I assume it's always running but not overpowering the valve regulating fuel to the carb bowl? It seems that would need to be a fairly gentle pump if the counterforce is a float raising a needle to seal off gas flow to the bowl.

Thanks.
 
Neato. That's a great write-up. Regarding the fuel pump, do you have a link to it? I assume it's always running but not overpowering the valve regulating fuel to the carb bowl? It seems that would need to be a fairly gentle pump if the counterforce is a float raising a needle to seal off gas flow to the bowl.

Thanks.

It's just an Edelbrock automotive pump. Waaaaaaayyyyyy too much gpm for this but pressure is fine at about 2.5-3.0 PSI.


No issue using it on the Yamaha either.


Originally, I used an RV generator fuel pump but it went bad after about 350 hours so I replaced it in an emergency with this Edelbrock. It worked fine on the Yamaha for about 400 hours, and now about 10 on this.

I did not run the voltage stabilizer on it and even at like 18 volts, it didn't overcome the Yamaha float. The voltage stabilizer I'm now running gets voltage down to about 12.6 volts and drops the pump RPM a bunch.

To summarize, yeah no issues with it overcoming needle seat pressure.
 
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With this generator vs the Yamaha inverter gen, venting is an issue because the cooling air comes out of all the different areas at different angles.

The Yamaha or almost all closed-frame inverter gens vent all the hot air and exhaust on one end. The prior setup just drafted right up the old radiator outlet on the rh side.

With this setup the exhaust goes up there but some of the cooling air from the engine and gen head gets blown against the lower part of the plate and recycles into the Gen shed.

Going to make a couple modifications to solve that problem next time I'm out.

Gen is only needed from December until about a week ago and when the place is occupied, depending on time of year and who's staying there. 😊
 
That reminds me of another question: what are the conditions and actions for Gen Inlet Temp? Is it intended to shut down or not start in cold conditions? Very hot conditions?
 
That reminds me of another question: what are the conditions and actions for Gen Inlet Temp? Is it intended to shut down or not start in cold conditions? Very hot conditions?

Shut down or not start (same thing) in hot. So if temp is between 100F and Say 200F, engine kill relay is closed (on=closed=grounded) and starter relay is open.

These values are adjustable to whatever arbitrary number you want them to be but you're still limited by if this then that logic.

These tycon boxes can be used for lots of stuff. This newest can be linked to an MPPT. I don't know if it will communicate on anything other than their stuff but I'm almost sure it will since their MPPT are just relabled PowMr etc.


Its a little bit of work but your generator has indicator lights for overload and low oil you can tap into those, measure their voltage or amperage and have an e-mail sent to you should either of those events occur.

Also note that any of these can be adjusted in about 3 seconds. This box just monitors voltages, currents a couple temperatures and uses the readings to control relays based on parameters you have set. Also have time of day etc you can use. This also allows you to control the relays based on info from the MPPT so tons of options.
 
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