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Looking for a propane inverter generator with Auto Gen Start Interface

Anybody know why propane generators are harder to start in the cold?

Aftermarket kit = How is it achieving cold-start enrichment? That hasn't been designed into those units.

They are barely able to compensate for load changes during normal operation.
 
I've been very happy with my small open frame Wen inverter.
Looks like they have larger options that may work for you.
 
Aftermarket kit = How is it achieving cold-start enrichment? That hasn't been designed into those units.

They are barely able to compensate for load changes during normal operation.
I don’t know what’s available for small engines but I remember that there was an enrichment solenoid option that you could use on the propane converter in forklifts and vehicles. You could hook it up to a button on the dash. If it was cold or you ran it out of fuel you could manually push the button to prime the converter. I believe this would move the diaphragm and allow more vapor into the engine. Also of note that the larger converters have an engine coolant warmed water jacket to warm them so they don’t freeze up especially when it’s cold.
 

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I don’t know what’s available for small engines but I remember that there was an enrichment solenoid option that you could use on the propane converter in forklifts and vehicles. You could hook it up to a button on the dash. If it was cold or you ran it out of fuel you could manually push the button to prime the converter. I believe this would move the diaphragm and allow more vapor into the engine. Also of note that the larger converters have an engine coolant warmed water jacket to warm them so they don’t freeze up especially when it’s cold.

The key here is remote start.
 
Aftermarket kit = How is it achieving cold-start enrichment? That hasn't been designed into those units.

They are barely able to compensate for load changes during normal operation.
US Carburation sells a variety of solenoid priming and regulator bypass start enrichment devices. Typically wired in parallel with the electric starter circuit so they inject a richer propane/air mixture during cranking, sort of like a choke solenoid on a gas engine.

The hard starting Honda conversion in question has a little solenoid valve tapped off upstream of the regulator diagram with a needle valve adjustment to allow setting the amount of enrichment. Some other setups sold by US Carburation have a solenoid attached to the regulator diaphragm push button that allows priming during the cranking time to achieve the same thing.

Just found out that this hard to start generator has been run low on oil in the past (very low in fact) so I suspect it has valve train wear and the valves may not be opening fully. Next step is to test compression and valve lash.
 
US Carburation sells a variety of solenoid priming and regulator bypass start enrichment devices. Typically wired in parallel with the electric starter circuit so they inject a richer propane/air mixture during cranking, sort of like a choke solenoid on a gas engine.

The hard starting Honda conversion in question has a little solenoid valve tapped off upstream of the regulator diagram with a needle valve adjustment to allow setting the amount of enrichment. Some other setups sold by US Carburation have a solenoid attached to the regulator diaphragm push button that allows priming during the cranking time to achieve the same thing.

Just found out that this hard to start generator has been run low on oil in the past (very low in fact) so I suspect it has valve train wear and the valves may not be opening fully. Next step is to test compression and valve lash.

Hard start when cold is valves that are too tight. (This assumes proper enrichment is being achieved)

Yanking the rope out of your hand on a Honda means the valves are too loose.

To decarbonize, take the plastic air filter housing off and then put some spacers behind the carburetor nuts and tighten it back down. Run it at full throttle and then hit it with carb cleaner directly into the carbon until almost stalls and then let it rev back up again and repeat until no more soot comes out of the exhaust.

Then let it cool off and check valve lash.

The little 2k/2.2k does not ever seem to need valves adjusted but it's still worth checking.
 
US Carburation sells a variety of solenoid priming and regulator bypass start enrichment devices. Typically wired in parallel with the electric starter circuit so they inject a richer propane/air mixture during cranking, sort of like a choke solenoid on a gas engine.

The hard starting Honda conversion in question has a little solenoid valve tapped off upstream of the regulator diagram with a needle valve adjustment to allow setting the amount of enrichment. Some other setups sold by US Carburation have a solenoid attached to the regulator diaphragm push button that allows priming during the cranking time to achieve the same thing.

Just found out that this hard to start generator has been run low on oil in the past (very low in fact) so I suspect it has valve train wear and the valves may not be opening fully. Next step is to test compression and valve lash.

These sound like good solutions but are they enough when it's say 10 degrees and lower out?
 
Guys/Gals

I am a Brit living in Northern Ireland and need all the help I can get please. I have a renogy 60a rover mppt along and a Renogy 3000w invertor charger connected to solar panels with 2 x 300 ah lithium batteries. The cabin I have is totally off grid. The weather here for the last few years has been trash.

I need to get a remote start generator that has 230v and a max 30amp output. Because that is what the renogy invertor charger states what the specification is.

The invertors instructions states that it can connect to a remote start generator via dry contacts. When the battery voltage drops to a level the renogy manual states that it will signal the generator to start. And then when the generator has charged the batteries to a specific level. It turns the generator off.

That is what I need. I can manually turn a generator on for it to charge the batteries and power the load via the invertor. But If I have to go away anywhere for a period and the weather is trash then the batteries eventually run down and the invertor switches off, because the panels are never able to keep the batteries topped up because of the weather. I need power to keep the cctv, alarm system and broadband going at a min when I am away. But here in Northern Ireland we have gone about 2 months now, with hardly a day where the sun has got through overcast cloud or rain for the panels to doe their job.

The trouble is getting a supplier of a two wire remote start generator who is in anyway helpful. I look at the states and there appear to be plenty of suppliers of different two wire start systems, but they are 120v and the renogy invertor charger will not activate the bypass if the voltage from the generator is not 230v

I have found a supplier of a generator which is way more expensive than I wanted to buy, but by god is this guy unhelpful. The information on the generator is pretty scant on how to connect the generator to the invertor with the dry contacts and vise versa. Here is a link to it.

Now this appears to use a buccaneer connector but there is no info on pin out information https://www.geargb.co.uk/product/50...G_GCE8000B_6.5kW_(8kVA)_AVR_Standby_Generator

If any of you guys could make any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated
 
Guys/Gals

I am a Brit living in Northern Ireland and need all the help I can get please. I have a renogy 60a rover mppt along and a Renogy 3000w invertor charger connected to solar panels with 2 x 300 ah lithium batteries. The cabin I have is totally off grid. The weather here for the last few years has been trash.

I need to get a remote start generator that has 230v and a max 30amp output. Because that is what the renogy invertor charger states what the specification is.

The invertors instructions states that it can connect to a remote start generator via dry contacts. When the battery voltage drops to a level the renogy manual states that it will signal the generator to start. And then when the generator has charged the batteries to a specific level. It turns the generator off.

That is what I need. I can manually turn a generator on for it to charge the batteries and power the load via the invertor. But If I have to go away anywhere for a period and the weather is trash then the batteries eventually run down and the invertor switches off, because the panels are never able to keep the batteries topped up because of the weather. I need power to keep the cctv, alarm system and broadband going at a min when I am away. But here in Northern Ireland we have gone about 2 months now, with hardly a day where the sun has got through overcast cloud or rain for the panels to doe their job.

The trouble is getting a supplier of a two wire remote start generator who is in anyway helpful. I look at the states and there appear to be plenty of suppliers of different two wire start systems, but they are 120v and the renogy invertor charger will not activate the bypass if the voltage from the generator is not 230v

I have found a supplier of a generator which is way more expensive than I wanted to buy, but by god is this guy unhelpful. The information on the generator is pretty scant on how to connect the generator to the invertor with the dry contacts and vise versa. Here is a link to it.

Now this appears to use a buccaneer connector but there is no info on pin out information https://www.geargb.co.uk/product/50...G_GCE8000B_6.5kW_(8kVA)_AVR_Standby_Generator

If any of you guys could make any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated

So you need to find out what the controller on that generator is looking for.

In other words would the renogy contacts need to close a circuit or send a voltage to the DSU on the generator you're looking at.

Either way, if that unit would satisfy your needs, you should be able to make it work with the renogy without too trouble.
 
As stated above I own a Champion 8.5 and it’s quite. To my ear it’s no louder than my champion 3100 inverter or my champion 2500 duel fuel. Or even my old Honda eu2000. Also it is the easiest generator in the world to convert to 2 wire start and incorporate the on board 24v battery charger.
Hi @Jack Rabbit Off Grid Can you share more details about the Champion 8.5?

I have a sol-ark 15k off-grid. Thinking about connecting one of these to the grid ports, and using the two-wire start so the solark can control the on/off of the generator.

Can you please share some details of how you did the two-wire connection? Greatly appreciated!
 
Hi @Jack Rabbit Off Grid Can you share more details about the Champion 8.5?

I have a sol-ark 15k off-grid. Thinking about connecting one of these to the grid ports, and using the two-wire start so the solark can control the on/off of the generator.

Can you please share some details of how you did the two-wire connection? Greatly appreciated!
 

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Hi @Jack Rabbit Off Grid Can you share more details about the Champion 8.5?

I have a sol-ark 15k off-grid. Thinking about connecting one of these to the grid ports, and using the two-wire start so the solark can control the on/off of the generator.

Can you please share some details of how you did the two-wire connection? Greatly appreciated!
I like the generator a lot but it does have a flaw from the factory. They ship set at 115v per leg 230v. Mine makes 113.9 and another member using a Sol-Ark has the same prob with his Making 113. Makes the TV’s look whacky and led bulbs flicker. He called and found out that they can be turned up to 120-240v which I’m going to do after I fix my wiring mistakes.
 
I like the generator a lot but it does have a flaw from the factory. They ship set at 115v per leg 230v. Mine makes 113.9 and another member using a Sol-Ark has the same prob with his Making 113. Makes the TV’s look whacky and led bulbs flicker. He called and found out that they can be turned up to 120-240v which I’m going to do after I fix my wiring mistakes.
How simple was the two-wire start installation? This is what i'm most curious about. Does the SolArk turn on, and also shut off the Champion generator?

Where does the two-wire plug into on the generator?

Thank you @Jack Rabbit Off Grid
 
How simple was the two-wire start installation? This is what i'm most curious about. Does the SolArk turn on, and also shut off the Champion generator?

Where does the two-wire plug into on the generator?

Thank you @Jack Rabbit Off Grid
I have not wired up the automatic start stop yet But have posted the information as per Champion. To me it seams pretty simple with my Magnum AGS.

I unfortunately don’t have a Sol-Ark but was referring to another member.
 
Check out Onan / Cummins RV generators. They are pricey, but ours has been very reliable. Check with an RV dealer if he has any used ones. I purchased a 2 year old 5kw for $1,200 from a 2 year old totaled out RV as a spare.
 
Honda is quality and quiet however expensive. They don’t come from factory with propane or NG and you will void warranty if you convert, probably needing telltale alterations during the conversion. DuroMax Xp900iH is a reasonably quiet inverter generators dual fuel with some state side support. AIVOLT (10k)makes a nice generator Available on Amazon with dubious support. Predator 9500 (Harbor Freight) makes a nice inverter generator but it’s gasoline only but it would be the top choice for Natural Gas conversion (conversion warranty issues too) Predator makes a 5000 watt dual fuel but it may not be ready for prime time. The 10k and 9k watt units mentioned use the same power head, engine and probably came from the same factory just different electrical, plumbing, plastic and paint. All three shouldn’t be used over 7000 watts continuous load on propane and 6500 watts if converted to natural gas. All three are splash lubrication, no oil filter. I highly recommend break in on gasoline not propane or natural gas. I would use a quality non synthetic oil of recommended viscosity for the first 30 minutes with no to a very light load, change oil, then a few hours of moderate load, change oil to “pennzoil ultra high mileage”. It’s about as good as Amsoil, a lot cheaper and the “high mileage” designation is an additive to protect the rubber crankshaft seals from synthetic issues. Once you are broke in and on synthetic and don’t plan on using gasoline anytime soon, I’d drain the tank and float bowl (bowl drain bolt if equipped) to avoid bad gasoline problems later. An aftermarket dipstick with a magnet is a good idea but forget the aftermarket magnetic drain plug, the splash flow makes the dipstick more effective. The Predator has no provision for remote start. The DuroMax and the AIVOLT have remote fobs and a panel interface for wired remote control but terrible documentation. Perhaps easier to rig relay to the fob.
Food for thought if you are going void warranty, you can buy two of the “other than Honda” for the same money
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Honda EU7000is works easily with a harness. Only on the non bluetooth versions though.
 
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