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Mini Air Conditioner?

Lt.Dan

Solar Wizard
Joined
Dec 25, 2020
Messages
3,571
Location
Tulare, Ca
Anyone know of any? I need to cool the compartment of my LV6548s, but don't have an effective way of doing so. I have 2 of them in the front/lower compartment (formerly the generator compartment). Right now i have ducting from the interior of the RV, and fans sucking air through the ducting into the compartment, as well as exhaust fans blowing out to atmosphere.

I just hooked up my SolarAssistant monitor with a Raspberry Pi4 and saw the internal temps at 71*C!!! Nominal operation range is only 40*C, so idk how that translates to internal inverter temp, but I know its very very hot.

The compartment is barley 14 sq/ft, and needs maybe 2000BTUs to keep it a cool temp, but I can find anything feasible. I thought about mounting a window unit in the side wall. That would take the place of one of the propane tanks, but they are all just a few inches too wide (max is around 18").

Any ideas?
 
That does look perfect spec wise, but it looks like it's made to mount into a server rack? I wonder how i could incorporate it.
 
It is intended for a server rack. I have no idea what your compartment looks like or what it has for access. The front two openings on the unit are for the evaporator and the rear is the condenser intake and top is the exhaust.
 
APC makes something similar, or did, can't find a link.

That TrippLite one works as follows:

  1. Lower rectangular duct is the cold out -- this you want ducted to the LV6548 air intakes.
  2. Square duct above it is the hot inlet -- this you want ducted to the LV6548 hot air outlets.
  3. Round vented duct on top is the exhaust out -- this goes outside the RV, or perhaps use it as low grade heat
 
APC makes something similar, or did, can't find a link.

That TrippLite one works as follows:

  1. Lower rectangular duct is the cold out -- this you want ducted to the LV6548 air intakes.
  2. Square duct above it is the hot inlet -- this you want ducted to the LV6548 hot air outlets.
  3. Round vented duct on top is the exhaust out -- this goes outside the RV, or perhaps use it as low grade heat
4. Rectangular duct on the rear is intake for condenser. This would draw from outside rv and is the air that travels through #3 above.
 
Dan, I put all my electrics and batteries under the bed in the bedroom. I bought a temp-based electronic controller and fans from The Cooler Guys. I've used some of their stuff in various applications over the years. I have two intake vents on one side and two fans on the other side. One fan kicks on when it hits 85 degrees in the compartment and the other kicks on if it hits 90 degrees. Both turn off when the compartment hits 80 degrees. That works fine when the AC is running. If it's hot outside and the AC isn't running, then at least one of the fans runs during the day if the batteries aren't already fully charged because one of the SCCs is working and generating heat. I might have to change my temp settings on the fan controller a little bit.

Anyway, you could do the same using your inside AC. Keep your forward compartment closed and use fans to circulate the air inside through the compartment. Of course, you will be dumping this heat inside, which will increase the cooling load inside. This seems preferable to installing a fourth AC unit for just that compartment. If you dump the heated air to the atmosphere then you'll need some intake somewhere or rely on leaks :) I opted to recirculate.

I could have used relays with logic in my Victron system to control the fans, but honestly, the temp controller is inexpensive and doesn't rely on the Victron gear in case something goes haywire.
 
A couple of heater cores or 2004,5,6 Toyota Corolla radiators, bldc fans selected from digi-key, aquarium pump, temperature controller. All Amazon. No moving cool air from inside RV to outside, to be replaced by ambient air.
 
I caved and bought the smallest window AC I could find. Im terrified that running the inverters at 70*C will damage another one! Online it says this AC fits a minimum 21" wide window, but its actually only 16" wide, so it fit just fine between the frame supports in the side wall of the compartment. Its just a little 5000BTU GE window air conditioner i got at lowes for $170 after tax. Couldn't beat it i guess.

With a kill a watt meter on it, it shows 500 watts running on high, and 55 watts for just the fan, so its not very efficient at all, but worth not burning up the inverters themselves!
20210702_200343.jpg

I also will not show the mounting system yet, as it is absolutely horrible lol. Its just a temporary to get it running and not burn up the inverters, ill make a much better permanent mount that won't let it move around too much while driving. It also blows HOT hot air out the condensor directly at the door of the propane compartment. I was hoping that the bottom of the compartment being open, it would have enough air flow, but with the condenser only a few inches from the door, im afraid it will damage it, so I am leaving the door open for now until I figure out something better.
 
https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-room-air-conditioners/ CEER >= 15 are inverter type. Midea 8K BTU fan max watts are whatever I posted before. 8(?) watts and that includes 2 watts for the electronics. Others here, including Will P., own one. I'm cooling a 1450 sq. ft. FL house with one. It hasn't gotten hot yet so averages 2-3 KW per day. Last seven days: 2.40, 2.52, 2.73, 2.43, 2.92, 2.50, 1.89 KW. Weather that produced those numbers: https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KFLSTJOH22/graph/2021-06-3/2021-06-3/monthly
 
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