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Minisplits have a mind of their own?

Most mini-splits have their thermometer near the top of the indoor "head" unit, which allows them to read the temp of the return air. But that return air is often not the temperature of the room air in, say, the middle of the room, 3-5' off the ground. Only a few higher-end brands and models make use of a thermostat in the remote or other (remote) sensor. So, basically, you figure out what temp setting feels good during a given season, and leave it at that, even when that temp seems like it would be way off if it was the setting for a typical wall thermostat.

We have three buildings with mini-splits (two Daikin and one Mitsubishi) and they all exhibit this behavior. Example: We set the BR unit to about 66 to keep the temp at 70, and at 68 to achieve the same temp in the Living Room. In the guest house, 70 keeps things at 72 in the living room, but the bedrooms tend to stay very close to their set temp, probably because those indoor units are wall-mounted at floor level. Bottom line: Figure out what temp setting feels right to you for each indoor unit, and use that, largely ignoring the number itself.
 
I’ve got a 6k btu 33 seer Mitsubishi in my electronics room that I use for cooling. I set the temp at 74 and it stays at 74.

Also a 15k btu 22 seer Mitsubishi in main house. Temps are also constant.

Both units are mitsu’s H2i.

I use Schneider gear and Discover lithium batteries. Quality works for me.
 
Can everyone share the brand/model?
I wonder if RV10flyer is into something...


Are the temp sensors part of the mini-spit? Or your monitoring?

Good to hear about the Fujitsu, that is on my list of possibilities.
I bought it separately.
 
Ive got a ton of mini splits in multiple houses and every one of them is effect by the wall they are mounted on temperature wise.

If its dark outside and 75 degrees then I pretty much can set the temperate to whatever I want the room to be at and it will hold it pretty much dead on. So if I set the heat pump to 77 it will stay 77. If I set it to 73 it will stay 73 roughly.

When the sun comes up the next day I have to turn the temperature up on it to keep the room from getting to cold. If its 80 outside and I keep it at 75 on the thermostat it will get down to 70 degrees in the room. So I have to ramp up to 78 or so to keep it around 75. At 99 or higher outside I set it to 80 to 82 to keep it 75 in the room. The walls in this particular room have no real insulation and the wall unit gets heated from the outside wall temperature aka the sun.

Now the ones on the brick walls that are insulated behave differently. They still have to be adjusted a tad during the day upward if you really want to hold say 75 you may need 77 to keep it there during the day. But at night things get crazy. All of that heat pumped into bricks on the wall during the day become heaters at night so the wall temps climb thus heating up the wall unit. So I have to tinker with the thermostat at night on those walls to keep it from running to much.

Cold seems to not be an issue so heat just does whatever you set it to in the winter for the most part but I have had days where it was below freezing outside and on the non insulated walls it ran a bit to much.
 
I love my minisplits. I can't go back to regular units.

But, they just arbitrarily decide what temperature they want to be at, and practically ignore the thermostat.

Why?


I like to set the temp to 74 degrees at night, in the summer. At least 8 times out of 10 they will be at a temperature higher than 74. I've tried even setting temp to 68. I still wake up to a temp of about 66 or 67.

Are they undersized??? A resounding no! I watch these things with iotawatt and they ramp down from 1800w to about 500-600w after around 30 mins, even if they are nowhere close to temp. Tf?

today I set them to heat mode. Set temp to 74. 45 minutes later house is 76 and they are still pumping heat.


anyone know what's going on and is there a fix?
I have a Mr Cool 18k mini split.


I honestly don’t follow it that much as it’s cooling/heating the building that the batteries and inverters are in.

I do know when I’m out there it never really shuts off.
Always running at least a little.

Maybe a Humidity or offset setting?

Never really explored the remote.

I’ll look at it Monday when I’m home.
 
Based on the outstanding COP of FUJITSU H-Series mini splits, either SEER or COP numbers are near meaningless. Even FUJITSU H-Series with 20+ SEER 2, the Cooling COP(and possibly Heating) crushes almost every other make and model.
Settings 7-15 Btu/Hr @ 47 degrees-FUJITSU-Single Zone-Energy Star 6.1-list view
 
Yeah I think about this a lot, they need a remote thermostat sensor.

In Vegas mine are either on or off. Maximum output. But it's still noticeable to me as well. When I walk into a room and it's freezing, it is frustrating. I have been running my fans to mix the air faster so there are less chance of cold spots developing

A remote thermostat will fix the room temp issue but if you have output to input direct air bleed of conditioned air, whether cooling or heating, you reduce the operating efficiency of unit.

Placement of unit to avoid direct input-output air feedback, directing of output air flow away from unit, and placement of thermostat are important.
 
I have a Mr Cool 18k mini split.


I honestly don’t follow it that much as it’s cooling/heating the building that the batteries and inverters are in.

I do know when I’m out there it never really shuts off.
Always running at least a little.

Maybe a Humidity or offset setting?

Never really explored the remote.

I’ll look at it Monday when I’m home.
My experience has been they need to run the fan enough to pull air over the temp sensor so they get a true room temp.
If you are using more than one head off of the same outdoor unit, then they often need to keep running to reach the minimum compressor load for any unit calling for heat/cooling. That's one of the things that makes multi-splits (two or more indoor heads on one outdoor unit) less efficient than a 1:1 ratio system.
 
My experience has been they need to run the fan enough to pull air over the temp sensor so they get a true room temp.
If you are using more than one head off of the same outdoor unit, then they often need to keep running to reach the minimum compressor load for any unit calling for heat/cooling. That's one of the things that makes multi-splits (two or more indoor heads on one outdoor unit) less efficient than a 1:1 ratio system.
It’s a single head.
 
Looks like one of my DUCTED mini splits is going to leave me stranded as we are about to go into the coldest three days of the year ???

Set it to 70 degrees. Woke up this morning and the bedrooms were a cold 60 degrees. It seems the unit just at some point during the night( around 3:15am) decided to stop heating or something. It was only pulling 500w.

This is a unit that can pull 2500w at full tilt

I turned it off, and turned it back on and now it's pulling 2kw

Anyone have any ideas?

Screenshot_20240113-080737.png
 
Generally through the stat/handheld or on the indoor control board. That's where I have seen most. Sometimes on the outdoor unit.
Get the manual and check to see what it says.
 
Looks to me like the coils went into freeze protection, just based on the power curve. Do you know outside dry- and wet-bulb temperatures around the time?
 
Yeah I think about this a lot, they need a remote thermostat sensor.

In Vegas mine are either on or off. Maximum output. But it's still noticeable to me as well. When I walk into a room and it's freezing, it is frustrating. I have been running my fans to mix the air faster so there are less chance of cold spots developing
Mine have the "follow me" choice on the remote. Transfers the thermostat to the remote and makes a huge difference.
 
I love my minisplits. I can't go back to regular units.

But, they just arbitrarily decide what temperature they want to be at, and practically ignore the thermostat.

Why?


I like to set the temp to 74 degrees at night, in the summer. At least 8 times out of 10 they will be at a temperature higher than 74. I've tried even setting temp to 68. I still wake up to a temp of about 66 or 67.

Are they undersized??? A resounding no! I watch these things with iotawatt and they ramp down from 1800w to about 500-600w after around 30 mins, even if they are nowhere close to temp. Tf?

today I set them to heat mode. Set temp to 74. 45 minutes later house is 76 and they are still pumping heat.


anyone know what's going on and is there a fix?
It sounds like you’re describing my Dometic A/C & Furnace in the RV. It is ducted high and low with wall mount thermostat too.. It seems to just not care what I set it at as it randomly drifts here and there..
I have found over the years if it does start misbehaving ,I can simply reboot it and all is fine for a while … But then it starts again doing goofy things…I don’t know…maybe it just don’t like me…
J.
 
Looks to me like the coils went into freeze protection, just based on the power curve. Do you know outside dry- and wet-bulb temperatures around the time?
How can I check this tonight?

This was temp and humidity around that time

Screenshot_20240113-114404.png
 
Just try logging the temperature right at where the room temperature sensor is located.
If that stays pretty constant, you cannot expect the system itself to do any better than that.

Maybe a ceiling fan to get some better air mixing and movement might fix the problem ?

Another solution I have had success with in the past, is to extend the wires on the room temperature sensor, and relocate the sensor away from whatever might be effecting it.
 
It sounds like you’re describing my Dometic A/C & Furnace in the RV. It is ducted high and low with wall mount thermostat too.. It seems to just not care what I set it at as it randomly drifts here and there..
I have found over the years if it does start misbehaving ,I can simply reboot it and all is fine for a while … But then it starts again doing goofy things…I don’t know…maybe it just don’t like me…
J.
Hmm I've been noticing that too. If I shut it off and turn it back on it starts acting right but only for a while
 
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Just try logging the temperature right at where the room temperature sensor is located.
If that stays pretty constant, you cannot expect the system itself to do any better than that.

Maybe a ceiling fan to get some better air mixing and movement might fix the problem ?

Another solution I have had success with in the past, is to extend the wires on the room temperature sensor, and relocate the sensor away from whatever might be effecting it.
The temp sensor is highly accurate. The system knows it's not at the set temp just doesn't seem to care.

It showed 60 or 61f this morning when I woke up
 
Clean the filter :)

Basically the inside temp sensor see's the unit as hotter than room temperature when the filter clogs up. Amazing deference after cleaning them at least for me.
 
Clean the filter :)

Basically the inside temp sensor see's the unit as hotter than room temperature when the filter clogs up. Amazing deference after cleaning them at least for me.
I actually just put in a brand new filter yesterday to eliminate that as a source of the problem. Thanks!
 
The other option then is to add an electric heating kit to the outside unit if its going into de-ice mode. Mine puts DF on the display when it does that.

Mine has the built in electric backup heat and outside de-icer for the one in the computer room. Uses a bunch more power to heat than the others when it kicks in the fancy stuff but it heats no matter what the temp is outside at least.

The others I just turn up the thermostat when its real cold to compensate if it doesn't want to run when its real cold. The filter is normally the culprit though but you covered that.
 

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