diy solar

diy solar

My 40ft 5th wheel 1020 Watt PV Build

I drilled the aluminum on the panels (rich solar poly 100w) frames and used unistrut L brackets.
I bought spring nuts and pulled the springs off for the unitstrut. That's all 3/8, with 3/8 to 1/2 bushings I found at ace hardware. The upper/inside mounts are 1/2 bolts mostly because the 1/2 spring nuts are cheaper.
I already have Z-brackets so I'll use those.

I'm not picturing spring nuts without springs or the use of 3/8 to 1/2 bushings.
 
I drilled the aluminum on the panels (rich solar poly 100w) frames and used unistrut L brackets.
I bought spring nuts and pulled the springs off for the unitstrut. That's all 3/8, with 3/8 to 1/2 bushings I found at ace hardware. The upper/inside mounts are 1/2 bolts mostly because the 1/2 spring nuts are cheaper.
 
Spring nuts have small crimp points for the spring, a pair of pliers pulls them off easily.

The rest, yeah I should document it. It's great for under panel wiring access
 
Wow! I guess I'll be buying the more traditional finish at a local Big Box. There is actually not much variety in terms of finish and gauge. Commercial building supply stores sell it but in minimum orders and higher prices.
Mylocal Home Depot has galvanized but it's as much as the aluminum and at least 2-3 times heavier.

Greg
 
Spring nuts have small crimp points for the spring, a pair of pliers pulls them off easily.

I hate those spring nuts. The crimp process usually damages the thread, and I have to chase them with a tap. Otherwise they seize before bolt is all the way in.
The nuts with plastic cones as retainer (or plain nuts) are better to work with.
 
I didn't have that issue, but I can see how that would happen. I bought all of mine at lowes if that helps
 
Well other than labeling everything I'm done with the install and tested the system over 6 days of camping in Smokey Mountain National Park. Thought it was time to give my first impression.

As a refresher without going back to the beginning. This is what the setup is.

Victron Multi Plus 12/3000/120-50 inverter with SPS controller.
Victron Smart Solar MPPT 150/70 SCC
Victron Smart Battery Protect 12/24-65
Victron BMV 712
Victron Celbro GX for system monitoring
Victron Touch 50 display screen
4 Canadian Solar 255 watt panels from SanTan Solar
16 Eve 280aH in 4s4p for 1120 aH of storage

Might install the Victron Orion 12/12-30 DC to DC battery charger but not sure if it will be need since the system charges while traveling.

Out of 6 days we only had 2 days of sun, one at the beginning and one at the end. A/C was not needed otherwise we ran as if we were plugged into ac. We did turn the inverter off when ac was no longer needed. Ended up the we were down to 85% by the time we headed home. Batteries were full by the time we got home after a 7hr drive in full sun.

Even on the 4 days of clouds we did see 100-200 watts of charging. I believe if the microwave and toaster were not used that even 100-200 watts would have been close to filling our needs.

When sun was out even under the trees we did see as high as 650 watts from the pv array but 350-400 watts was more the norm. When in full sun as high as 905 watts.

Over all extremely happy. What this means for the wife and I is we can dry camp for 7-10 days without starting the generator when in cloudy conditions.

We carry 80 gallon of fresh water and 40 gal black and 40 gray water capacity. I would have to make two trips to dump with the 40 gal tote and would haul 60 gal fresh water in a portable bladder. I will use a macerator pump to fill the tote I strapped down in the back of my truck so I don't have to man handle it when full.

All this with 1120 amp hrs of power I think I'm set. If I think I need more Solar capacity I can change out the 255 watt panels for 400 watt without doing any modifications. And I have 560 amp hrs of batteries in reserve.
 

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Well other than labeling everything I'm done with the install and tested the system over 6 days of camping in Smokey Mountain National Park. Thought it was time to give my first impression.

As a refresher without going back to the beginning. This is what the setup is.

Victron Multi Plus 12/3000/120-50 inverter with SPS controller.
Victron Smart Solar MPPT 150/70 SCC
Victron Smart Battery Protect 12/24-65
Victron BMV 712
Victron Celbro GX for system monitoring
Victron Touch 50 display screen
4 Canadian Solar 255 watt panels from SanTan Solar
16 Eve 280aH in 4s4p for 1120 aH of storage

Might install the Victron Orion 12/12-30 DC to DC battery charger but not sure if it will be need since the system charges while traveling.

Out of 6 days we only had 2 days of sun, one at the beginning and one at the end. A/C was not needed otherwise we ran as if we were plugged into ac. We did turn the inverter off when ac was no longer needed. Ended up the we were down to 85% by the time we headed home. Batteries were full by the time we got home after a 7hr drive in full sun.

Even on the 4 days of clouds we did see 100-200 watts of charging. I believe if the microwave and toaster were not used that even 100-200 watts would have been close to filling our needs.

When sun was out even under the trees we did see as high as 650 watts from the pv array but 350-400 watts was more the norm. When in full sun as high as 905 watts.

Over all extremely happy. What this means for the wife and I is we can dry camp for 7-10 days without starting the generator when in cloudy conditions.

We carry 80 gallon of fresh water and 40 gal black and 40 gray water capacity. I would have to make two trips to dump with the 40 gal tote and would haul 60 gal fresh water in a portable bladder. I will use a macerator pump to fill the tote I strapped down in the back of my truck so I don't have to man handle it when full.

All this with 1120 amp hrs of power I think I'm set. If I think I need more Solar capacity I can change out the 255 watt panels for 400 watt without doing any modifications. And I have 560 amp hrs of batteries in reserve.

A couple questions:

1) No main battery fuse? It seems your class-t is just protecting the inverter?
2) You have a VE.can MPPT but not using that to connect to the Cerbo GX?
3) What do all the smaller breakers in the middle protect?

Looks good!
 
A couple questions:

1) No main battery fuse? It seems your class-t is just protecting the inverter?
2) You have a VE.can MPPT but not using that to connect to the Cerbo GX?
3) What do all the smaller breakers in the middle protect?

Looks good!
All circuits are protected, so why a battery fuse? The mppt is connected to the Cerbo.

Greg
 
All circuits are protected, so why a battery fuse? The mppt is connected to the Cerbo.

Greg

You have a critical area from batteries to the positive bus bar that is not fused - and would be a direct battery short. That Class-T should really be between the batteries and the bus.

You have a MPPT that supports ve.can which is a special model. Just interesting you have one and not using the ve.can as the interface to the Cerbo.
 
You have a critical area from batteries to the positive bus bar that is not fused - and would be a direct battery short. That Class-T should really be between the batteries and the bus.

You have a MPPT that supports ve.can which is a special model. Just interesting you have one and not using the ve.can as the interface to the Cerbo.
The mppt is hooked to the cebro. As for the battery fuse to the bus well maybe you need it and may be not. Something would have too fall across the bus. Could it happen? Sure it could. But in the auto industry they are not used. But it's your opinion and your entiled to it.
 
The battery terminals something could easily fall across. I would put a cover over that, as is normal for newer cars and their starting battery.

Cars normally have fuses for branch circuits and fusible link between battery and fuse holder, but no fuse on the very high current starter circuit.
The house battery in the picture appears to be at least 24V if not 48V, and if lithium can dump many times the wattage of a car battery. Current might approach 20,000A if a 48V string of batteries, or 40,000A if 2s2p. Considerably more than what a starter battery would deliver. A class T fuse before the first point where a short is likely to occur could be good insurance. An end user might pay 0.1% or less than the value of the motorhome for such protection, even though manufacturer would avoid it.

Industry is also using "explody" lithium chemistry for Power Wall type products, and some brands have had recalls due to fires. Many DIY consumers here are using the safer LiFePO4. We can pay more to do it right, rather than trying to shave "mils" (1/10ths of a cent) like the auto industry does.
 
I have a very similar set up. Almost exact. But with 2,020 Watts on the roof going to two different charge controllers, networked together. I ran the same batteries thru a Victron 5 Fuse mega holder and that is connected to my positive buss. Each battery is fused 300A for catastrophic failure, but I max draw out of each LIFEPO4 pack perhaps 35Amps simultaneously with all largest loads on. One other thing that I use in all my builds are BEP Pro Installer Bus system and link bars. This cuts way down on jumpers and potential voltage loss and failure points with fittings. I also cover my positive terminals with a couple layers of Kapton tape because I have dropped wrenches on terminals before with spectacular results.
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Where did you get your battery boxes from? Very neatly done!
 
One other thing that I use in all my builds are BEP Pro Installer Bus system and link bars. This cuts way down on jumpers and potential voltage loss and failure points with fittings. I also cover my positive terminals with a couple layers of Kapton tape because I have dropped wrenches on terminals before with spectacular results.
That is truly professional looking And space saving. I will consider BEP for my next build.

I may even tape over some of the exposed terminals I have on my Blue Sea busbar with KAPLAN tape.
 
I have a very similar set up. Almost exact. But with 2,020 Watts on the roof going to two different charge controllers, networked together. I ran the same batteries thru a Victron 5 Fuse mega holder and that is connected to my positive buss. Each battery is fused 300A for catastrophic failure, but I max draw out of each LIFEPO4 pack perhaps 35Amps simultaneously with all largest loads on. One other thing that I use in all my builds are BEP Pro Installer Bus system and link bars. This cuts way down on jumpers and potential voltage loss and failure points with fittings. I also cover my positive terminals with a couple layers of Kapton tape because I have dropped wrenches on terminals before with spectacular results.
View attachment 50407View attachment 50409

Nice install! My only concern is having to stuff a hand deep into the install to get to that emergency shut off.

Whats the black box on the top level to the left of the multiplus?
 
Well other than labeling everything I'm done with the install and tested the system over 6 days of camping in Smokey Mountain National Park. Thought it was time to give my first impression.

As a refresher without going back to the beginning. This is what the setup is.

Victron Multi Plus 12/3000/120-50 inverter with SPS controller.
Victron Smart Solar MPPT 150/70 SCC
Victron Smart Battery Protect 12/24-65
Victron BMV 712
Victron Celbro GX for system monitoring
Victron Touch 50 display screen
4 Canadian Solar 255 watt panels from SanTan Solar
16 Eve 280aH in 4s4p for 1120 aH of storage

Might install the Victron Orion 12/12-30 DC to DC battery charger but not sure if it will be need since the system charges while traveling.

Out of 6 days we only had 2 days of sun, one at the beginning and one at the end. A/C was not needed otherwise we ran as if we were plugged into ac. We did turn the inverter off when ac was no longer needed. Ended up the we were down to 85% by the time we headed home. Batteries were full by the time we got home after a 7hr drive in full sun.

Even on the 4 days of clouds we did see 100-200 watts of charging. I believe if the microwave and toaster were not used that even 100-200 watts would have been close to filling our needs.

When sun was out even under the trees we did see as high as 650 watts from the pv array but 350-400 watts was more the norm. When in full sun as high as 905 watts.

Over all extremely happy. What this means for the wife and I is we can dry camp for 7-10 days without starting the generator when in cloudy conditions.

We carry 80 gallon of fresh water and 40 gal black and 40 gray water capacity. I would have to make two trips to dump with the 40 gal tote and would haul 60 gal fresh water in a portable bladder. I will use a macerator pump to fill the tote I strapped down in the back of my truck so I don't have to man handle it when full.

All this with 1120 amp hrs of power I think I'm set. If I think I need more Solar capacity I can change out the 255 watt panels for 400 watt without doing any modifications. And I have 560 amp hrs of batteries in reserve.
What kind of A/C wire did you use? That looks easier to work with than the 6/3 i used to wire my EMS.
 
I may even tape over some of the exposed terminals I have on my Blue Sea busbar with KAPLAN tape.

Kapton is good insulation, but being thin tape it could get punctured by a corner of the bolt if something hard hits it.
I used a split piece of hose (which can be cable-tied to keep it in place.)

 
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