diy solar

diy solar

Micro-PV Build

highwaypirate

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Jul 31, 2023
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Canada
If you had seen some of my other threads on problems I've been having with a Victron 100/20, you will know how much I HATE the connectors they come with. Well... I came up with a solution:

CC Loose Terminal Fix.jpg

...and it HOLDS the cables in place! (kiitos to my boss's wife who previously came up with this design for their 100/50s) While it does in fact holds wires where they should be, the terminal screws themselves still break loose after 10 minutes of driving. Therefore, it's still not safe enough for my Honda's install and the PWM's will remain in charge of all my solar needs. But this gave my friend and I an idea; since the 100/20 still works, why not use it as a 'tester station' for smaller systems?

CC Board and Wiring.jpg

And this is what we came up with. -I know, I know... it's not what you'd call a 'proper install', but it does work. I have repurposed my 50w array to use a DC female cig-port, where it then connects to a male cig-plug with a 5A tube fuse (I'm scared to push more than 5A through this Victron) where it then connects to 10AWG MC4 connectors to the Victron's PV ports. From there, another 10AWG MC4 leaves it's battery port and goes down to an SAE connector (this WILL be upgraded once I get new cables ordered), which heads to my battery's fuse panel and bus bar.

At first we didn't think a cigarette plug as the PV connector would work, but we did notice on the Victron's application it was reading voltage (this test was done at a north-facing window; it would never make enough voltage to initiate charging).Array Voltage Test (inside building).png

While the system does in fact work, I do NOT recommend doing it this way unless you know what you're doing and the possible risks involved (this is simply for disvocering what would work). Cigarette plugs aren't designed to handle more than 10A for a long period of time (8A would be the MAXIMUM I would put through, although this is usually when the connectors begin to heat up). 100w would be the most I'd use with this connection method, although by adding cig-plugs this enables me to make a very-fast PV disconnect if something should go wrong. Also, while cig-plugs aren't a very good connection this one holds inside very well!

Loose CC to BATT Connection.png

This is a screen capture of a phenomenon we had discovered; once the panel reached over 180w, the charger drops battery voltage. I did e-mail Victron about this, but naturally I've yet to get a response. We figure since this one was a return product at some point (before I purchased it), there must be some sort of damages within the charger. It keeps on doing this if more than 175w is being pulled in; any less and it behaves as normal. Once I acquire more 10AWG wire, I'll replace the 14AWG connections I have and will try to seek another 50w panel (providing I can find one that isn't $130 cdn...) and wire both arrays in series.

I'll be doing a series of tests this year with micro-systems (AGM/LiFePO4 batteries under 50AH) as well as looking into more unusual builds and system tweaks. If this thread doesn't recieve much criticism, I'll be more than happy to continue posting future experiments as well as their test results. If you have any ideas on what we should try out with the 100/20, please feel free to send me a pm! I'm always up for experimenting with smaller systems and projects.
 
Would be nice to see if you overpanel this SCC, will it trip any protection?

In theory, the system will only pull the power it needs up to the max production, so it should be able to be overpaneled by quite a bit.

I frequently set my 75/15 24 volt Victron MPPT up with 900 watts of panels, 9 X 100 watt 20 volt panels set up 3S3P, and I have only once received a Victron over-amperage error. I think this load did not cause this, but more the MPPT algorithm.
 
I've used about 6 different of the victron smartsolar mppt's now, including the smaller 100/20 and 75/15. I've never had a problem with any of their terminals, or charging the battery exactly how their supposed to. Same with the renogy controllers I've used as well.

I would get yours replaced.
 
Would be nice to see if you overpanel this SCC, will it trip any protection?
I've thought of this myself, but with my controller's fault of mis-reading my battery voltage to 1volt, I'm not sure how far over 175w I should be pushing it. Although I do know these Victron's will get very warm the longer they're pushed past their limits. Our motorhome office at work utilizes two 100/50s and on occasion they do top-out at 50A each, I have noticed they sit around 78c where they'd normally be at 68-70c. Perhaps in the end when I can obtain a better MPPT (with different terminal connectors), I'll do a test with the Victron to see just how much stress it could actually handle.
 
I've used about 6 different of the victron smartsolar mppt's now, including the smaller 100/20 and 75/15. I've never had a problem with any of their terminals, or charging the battery exactly how their supposed to. Same with the renogy controllers I've used as well.

I would get yours replaced.
I know, these Victrons are pretty neat devices (my boss only uses Victron for our jobsites). Since China-zon already reimbursed the cost and Victron not replying to my e-mail inquiry, this one will only be used for experiment testing. I don't need all the bells and whistles in a controller; if it puts energy into my battery, it's doing its job for me.
 
Our motorhome office at work utilizes two 100/50s and on occasion they do top-out at 50A each, I have noticed they sit around 78c where they'd normally be at 68-70c. Perhaps in the end when I can obtain a better MPPT (with different terminal connectors), I'll do a test with the Victron to see just how much stress it could
On a different Victron, a 100/30, I constantly max that out and also the 75/15, and they are not that hot. Perhaps 100f, 37c.

I measured it with an IR humans it was about that definitely not what you said.

The ambient temp was up to 80.

I have a 100/50, but that only sees 36 amps tops and usually 20-25.
 
I wish his controllers could run that cool, but the motorhome is like a baked potato wrapped in tin-foil during the summer months (I've been in here when it's close to 38-40c). I bet the ambient temperatures and where the controllers are mounted would make a huge difference in temps while running. I'd like to run a couple of fans in their room to help cool them off this summer. If it weren't for all of the electronics installed in here (our vehicle arrays also plug into it for extra jobsite power) I bet it would be quite cooler.
 
Bonus points for creativity with the 12v outlet 😅

I have found Anderson connectors work great, and the 50A versions are not super expensive. Available up to 175a i believe.
 
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