New guy here from Ohio ...Help

[garyr]

New guy here from Ohio,
Will, Thanks so much for your expertise and ability to relay all of this to common folk! Whatever knowledge I
have or do not have likely came from your Video's.
I am a long time equipment maintenance mechanic/Welder/Sheet matal man with a limited/ slim-to-none electrical knowledge.
OK I am attempting to go off grid capable with a 2006 Mercedes Sprinter van Gulf Stream class b.
The more I do the more confused I get.

So far:
Mostly completely insulated the van almost a complete R&R
4 bank 16 3.3v Lifepo4 batteries = 12v 200ah
4s bms (I have read I should get a bms that allows charge and discharge simultaneously
EPEver Tracer 4125BN 40 amp charge controller w/ MT50 remote meter
WindyNation VertaMax 3000w inverter with remote on/off switch (just fine for our needs thus far)
No solar panels yet (still working on mounting bracketry)
Most all house lights converted to 12v LED
12v tv
12v fridge
12v propane furnace
12v / propane on demand water heater
12v pump
120v 1500w microwave and maybe a 120 volt appliance from time to time

Fully charged the system runs the house for about 2-3 days.

Multi Vehicle electric charging systems:
vehicle battery charged on the vehicle alternator. When that battery is fully charged A solenoid
automatically switches the 12v charging to the house batteries.

There is also a 120-12volt converter for when the vehicle is plugged in to 30 amp service (with 20amp adapter)
Then there is the propane powered generator.

Then I have a NOCO Genius smart charger supposedly for lithium batteries. It takes like 3 or
4 days to charge the house batteries from 10.9v to 13.3v so it has to charge hour for hour of
use. Either with the refrigerator left on or off Not good

There are circuit breakers between all I have installed and 2 system shut off's
All of the jumper wires are mostly 4 ga welding wire with a couple 2 guage with soldered connectors.
Copper buss bars and 4ga battery jumpers.
The house battery, inverter and charge controller are within no more than 2 foot long jumpers.
The inverter 120v lead is 10ga 3 wire

Observation: When we are driving the only 12v used is the fridge but it seems the alternator charging
of the house batteries is either not happening or of no effect. The automatic switching from vehicle to house
charging is functional. I just ordered a wall mounted volt /amp meter


Questions:
I am thinking electricity should flow like water through a hose.
1) Should I be channeling all of the different charge functions through the charge controller?

2)Should I run the entire 12v house from the load lugs of the charge controller? I am not currently...

Charge controller lugs PV+ PV- BATT+ BATT- Load+ Load-

3) Since I turn off the entire 12volt system from time to time and now with freezing temps will the
epever charge controller retain my user settings or will it revert to factory settings? IE Will I have to reprogram it
every time i shut it off?

Thanks in advance, Gary

 

[snoobler]

Comments.

The system that joins the chassis/coach batteries will likely kill your alternator. LFP batteries can take the max output of an alternator much longer than FLA/AGM. Best to use a DC-DC charger (Victron Orion) or a BIM. Those systems can also fail as the solenoids that join them don't last forever.

Questions:

1) The EPEver is doing nothing at this time since you have no solar panels?
2) Can the 12V batteries be charged via shore or genny?

Answers:

1) No. It's a solar charge controller.
2) Possibly. Those load lugs are likely limited to something close to the unit's 40A charge rating limiting the total draw to 40A * 12V = 480W. If the unit can manage a low-voltage disconnect function of the 12V appliances, that's a good feature.
3) It should retain settings.