can you explain the gG vs the gL more for the tripping curve???
They do fit, physically, but NH3 fuse holders (like the 3NH3430) have 2 brackets on either connector to carry the higher currents.
I've read a bit more, so gL is an old curve (for cables) replaced by gG (for general purpose).
I bought 3 of the italweber fuse holders and they have two of the retaining clips on each side but are so tight I am not sure how to put a fuse into them...but perhaps they are designed for a slightly different fuse....????
It is on purpose that the clamps have such a tight grip, those 4 "tiny" clamps need to be low resistance enough to handle currents of up to I think it 3000A (3000A on a tenth Ohm of resistance would be 300W of heat on the terminals)
You just need A LOT of force
Well, it is technically an NH1 fuse, but you actually an NH1 XL (for the extra length)
I would like to read that discussion of paralleling fuses if you can provide the source...
Just as a sidenote, before buying anything else, please show me what you want to buy and what you want to do with it so that I can tell you if its the right thing or not
Remote DC disconnect? Or just a manual disconnect?I plan to utilize the NH fuse-links between the high amp lifepo4 battery and the inverters...
I thought the PV fuses would be a step up in protection in case of catastrophe....
the price of class T fuses and fuse holders has increased significantly in the past year....
I was reading that the NH fuses are better (ie they do not explode ) at least the idea is to improve the system's safety...
I have 3200-watt inverters, 5000-watt inverters, and up to 15000-watt inverters hooked to 4 separate lifepo4 battery builds....
I also have some prebuilt lifepo4 batteries ...
at any rate, the primary purpose is to utilize the NH fuse between the inverters and the lifepo4 batteries...
The DC disconnect is another part I still need to improve in the system...
all is done off-grid with no connection to the grid....
more later,
Paralleling fuses is not the best idea as no 2 fuses have exactly the same resistance, so you always have a fuse carrying a higher current than the other one, meaning one will fail more likely. Then there will be an additional amount of time it takes for the second fuse to blow, which leads to a higher total energy in a possible short circuit and therefore probably more destruction/damages
Yes, the red tab on top is the indicator that the fuse has blown. On that ETI fuse you also have the red dot on the front, if its blown the rered dot will disappear
You dont calculate with the acutal voltages (25.6V) but instead with 24V or 48V to have some securitythe 3200-watt 24-volt inverter: calculates out to needing 156.25 Amp fuse so a 160 Amp fuse should be about right.
3200 watts divided by 25.6 volts equals 125 amps
125 amps times 1.25 fuse size increase factor equals 156.25 Amps
the 15000-watt inverter is 48-volt.
so 15000 watts divided by 53.2 volts equals 281.95 Amps
281.95 Amps times 1.25 fuse size factor increase equals 352.44 Amps
I have 355 amp and 400 amp NH fuses... so either of those should work for the 15000-watt 48-volt inverter...
still trying to understand the fuse jargon better to get the right fuse for the different parts of the system...
DC-rated disconnects are still to be determined for better quality/ reliability.... still working on that part...separate from the fuse part.
the sun was out in good force yesterday (January 27th,2024)and production was good for PV with a little snow melting at 36 degrees Fahrenheit...
with improving outside temperatures >>> I was working on the support shelf for the larger LiFePO4 in the off-grid solar power shed....a heat wave compared to 20-30 degrees below zero Fahrenheit with wind chill a week before!!!
If there is no need for remote switching then I would recommend using NH-Switches, here is one for a single NH2 fuse i.e.DC-rated disconnects are still to be determined for better quality/ reliability.... still working on that part...separate from the fuse part.
