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NH fuse in parallel?? aka NH knife blade fuse aka DIN NH blade fuse

I have Siemens 80 amp NH and 160 amp NH fuses as well..
I have triple fuse holders if I want to try paralleling any fuse for the smaller fuses. but have not tried that yet...

the smallest inverter is a 1500-watt 24-volt inverter.
so 1500 watts divided by 25.6 volts equals 58.59 Amps
53.59 amps time 1.25 fuse size increase factor equals 73.24 Amps >>>
so the 80 Amp NH Fuse would be right for the 1500-watt 24-volt inverter.
🤔
Don't parallel them, it just makes things messy and problematic.
1500W / 24V = 62.5A (without your factor the best fuse would be 63A)
Times 1.25 would be 78.125A so the 80A fuse is your friend.
 
more than one inverter can be connected to each LiFePO4 DIY battery....
each inverter will be fused separately....
usually no more than two inverters on any battery at the moment....
smaller inverter for smaller loads
bigger inverters for bigger loads on a bigger battery
NH fuse is the upgrade partially....
Each battery should have one fuse to the main busbar, every inverter should have one fuse to the busbar.
 
If there is no need for remote switching then I would recommend using NH-Switches, here is one for a single NH2 fuse i.e.
It takes one NH fuse (either NH1 or NH2) up to 400A. You can use it as fuse base and DC disconnect switch
that is interesting the fuse base disconnect combo; it is somewhat expensive at 126 dollars plus tax on Amazon in the USA....
essentially a convenient fuse puller built in to the fuse holder...
 
that is interesting the fuse base disconnect combo; it is somewhat expensive at 126 dollars plus tax on Amazon in the USA....
essentially a convenient fuse puller built in to the fuse holder...
So you are based in the US? There are single pole NH disconnect switches from a lot of brands, not only ABB, maybe you can find a used, cheaper one.
I dont know your exact setup, but if you have multiple 24 or 48V batteries with inverters you could look for 3 pole NH2 disconnect switches, put a massive copper busbar on 3 of the poles of the NH disconnector and then have 3 connections, i.e. 2 fuses for 2 batteries and one for an inverter
 
From what I've found on ebay, you are probably better off by using just NH bases and a seperate DC rated switch. NH fuses seem very rare overseas
 
From what I've found on ebay, you are probably better off by using just NH bases and a seperate DC rated switch. NH fuses seem very rare overseas
yes, i have a hard search trying to find some things in the USA compatible with NH fuses....

I do have blue sea 350 amp DC switches I could put inline as manual DC disconnects....
 
I think the NHA is referring to the fuse holder dimensions and not the fuse....not sure though,,,, but I believe all the bottom dimensions are fuse holder size dimensions????
Old thread but I'll throw in my 0.05$.

The FIRST thing you need to determine is which fuse tripping characteristic you are going to use:
- aR: semiconductor fuse, ultra fast, short-circuit protection ONLY (NO overload protection !), HIGH power dissipation
- gS: semiconductor fuse, very fast, short-circuit protection and overload protection, medium power dissipation
- gBat: semiconductor fuse, quite-very fast, short-circuit protection and overload protection, medium power dissipation
- gR: semiconductor fuse, relatively fast, short-circuit protection and overload protection, medium power dissipation
- gG: general purpose fuse, slow, short-circuit protection and overload protection, low power dissipation

Check:
- Prospective Short-Circuit current vs Clearing Time Curve
- Peak Limiting / Let-through Current Curve
- Pre-Arcing I2t value (take it with a pinch of salt - the value is typically given for AC circuits under some controlled conditions)
- Arcing I2t value (take it with a pinch of salt - the value is typically given for AC circuits under some controlled conditions)

THEN:
- Check the power dissipation of your fuse at the operating current (including unbalance: 20-30% unbalance is typical) and check that the fuse holder can withstand it
- For aR fuses you need to MASSIVELY oversize the fuse with respect to your operating current, simply because the power dissipation is HUGE
- For aR fuse a Breaker (or other fuse) OVERLOAD protection is required.

What I did for operating current of 100 ADC:
- Fuse aR 315A NH1 (1 for DC+, 1 for DC-)
- Breaker type Schneider Electric C120H-B100 (2P)

You won't protect much if you are planning on installing a gG fuse ...

At the very least go for gR.

I would NOT go below gS / gBat. aR is preferred but make sure you have overload protection though some other means !

In the future I might change for operating current of 100 ADC:
- Fuse aR 200A-250A NH00 (1 for DC+, 1 for DC-) and/or Fuse gBat 125A NH00 (1 for DC+, 1 for DC-)
- Breaker type Schneider Electric C120H-B100 (2P)

For the same Fuse Tripping Characteristic and Nominal Current, a NH00 fuse will have a lot LESS power dissipation than a NH1. Similarly NH1 will have LESS power dissipation than NH2. And so on.

EDIT 1: When paralleling fuses, besides the current unbalance issue, you also need to be aware that the I2t value of the "equivalent fuse" (the I2t delivered to the load/inverter/charger/etc in case of a fault) is the SUM of the I2t of each fuses.

So for instance 3 x 100A fuse will give you 300A operating current (ideally, WITHOUT considering unbalance / current sharing), but 3 x (I(t)
)^2 where I(t) is extracted from the fuse Prospective Current vs Clearing Time Characteristic.
 
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Are these NH fuses and holders same, or similar to RT16 fuses? And has anyone tested these cheap AliExpress versions and know whether they are worth using?

I don't know ... But if you plan on using a non-brand Fuse from China, you better do some tests to make sure they work correctly, BEFORE you deploy them ...

I already saw many videos of cheapo Chinese Fuses, these small automotive 1-16A Blade Type Fuses, where the non-Brand version would NEVER melt. And here we are talking a much dangerous situation ...

EDIT: from the Picture it's a gG Fuse. No matter how "fast" or "quick" they claim to be, it's like the SLOWEST fuse you could possible deploy on a Battery. aM is not a thing ...
 
Fuses in parallel don't behave the way you think. The current does split through them but only close verse dead even. It totally messes up the time verse current curves so it is unpredictable. And if one blows it will blow the other.

If you parallel fuses you have to test them and identify the curve to use.

The only exception to this is when the mfg matches fuses together and makes them together then they provide a time/current curve set for the grouping.
 
I have two 12V 200AH Lipo batteries, 100amp BMS each, that I’m going to put in parallel. Based on what I’ve read, I’m going to fuse each battery separately at the terminals, with 125amp fuses, each cable will go to the distribution bus bar. What NH fuse and holder would work for my 12V system? Other comments on how I’m setting up my system are welcome. I can’t switch to 24V system, I’m already deep in 12V equipment. Thanks :)
 
As an electrician, It looks like you know these fuses very wellI. Could you help me out? I have two 12V 200AH Lipo batteries, 100amp BMS each, that I’m going to put in parallel. Based on what I’ve read, I’m going to fuse each battery separately at the terminals, with 125amp fuses, each cable will go to the distribution bus bar. What NH fuse and holder would work for my 12V system? Model number or links to the items would be super helpful.

Other comments on how I’m setting up my system are welcome. I can’t switch to 24V system, I’m already deep in 12V equipment. Thanks :)
 
depends on your battery BMS -

Put a MRBF fuse rated at 25% over maximum current on the post - MRBF has 10k AIC at 12v. So, 125a on a 100amp BMS or 250a on a 200amp BMS.

You show california as a location - you can use the knife fuses of course but they are wicked expensive here in the US. Here we generally recommend the JJN class T fuses in an ignition safe enclosure - The fuses are reasonably priced on current connected and they are real. The ignition safe holder is by Blue Sea Systems - they will contain any sparks that make it outside the fuse (unlikely) and the cover latches on.

For the fuse holder - they come in 2 sizes depending on the fuse amp rating selected. Make sure to get the right one for your fuse size.

The class T has 50ka AIC at 12v.
 
depends on your battery BMS -

Put a MRBF fuse rated at 25% over maximum current on the post - MRBF has 10k AIC at 12v. So, 125a on a 100amp BMS or 250a on a 200amp BMS.

You show california as a location - you can use the knife fuses of course but they are wicked expensive here in the US. Here we generally recommend the JJN class T fuses in an ignition safe enclosure - The fuses are reasonably priced on current connected and they are real. The ignition safe holder is by Blue Sea Systems - they will contain any sparks that make it outside the fuse (unlikely) and the cover latches on.

For the fuse holder - they come in 2 sizes depending on the fuse amp rating selected. Make sure to get the right one for your fuse size.

The class T has 50ka AIC at 12v.
Thanks, I’ll go with the MRBF. 125amp on each terminal. Equal length cables routed to bus bar.

I found a reputable company who sells Eaton Bussman components for less than Blue Sea. https://www.delcity.net/store/Marine-Rated-Battery-Fuse-Block/p_808937.h_808939
 
Thanks, I’ll go with the MRBF. 125amp on each terminal. Equal length cables routed to bus bar.

I found a reputable company who sells Eaton Bussman components for less than Blue Sea. https://www.delcity.net/store/Marine-Rated-Battery-Fuse-Block/p_808937.h_808939


Yup, del city is a reputable place - good prices as well and you know you get the real deal. Just make sure to get a couple of spare fuses for when you blow one :)

And do all the wire hookup and make the battery post the last thing - save the blow one sacrifice from a flopping wire :)

Oh yeah, get a tub of No-Ox-ID special grease -

A thin coating of this goes on the mating surface of every contact, the battery, etc... it prevents corrosion, water intrusion, and makes for better contact.
 
Yup, del city is a reputable place - good prices as well and you know you get the real deal. Just make sure to get a couple of spare fuses for when you blow one :)

And do all the wire hookup and make the battery post the last thing - save the blow one sacrifice from a flopping wire :)

Oh yeah, get a tub of No-Ox-ID special grease -

A thin coating of this goes on the mating surface of every contact, the battery, etc... it prevents corrosion, water intrusion, and makes for better contact.
Nice, will do. Thanks 🤙
 

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