Non combustible backing board

[AC/DC]

Yes in some cases I primed but for interior surfaces it is not as important. HD and Lowes can mix a gray color of your choice. They typically stock few actual colors.

I have zero experience with paints, mind sending me a link? Would it be something they would mix? I looked on the shelves and couldn't find a single gray latex paint.

 

[G8trwood]

I put aluminum diamond plate over ply. Diamonds against plywood. The giant heatsink really helped lower temps around my chargers.

 

[Bluedog225]

Plain ply with a couple of coats of intumescent paint might be good.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Just use concrete hardi backer, with plywood behind it. You'll spend 10x more time looking for another product that costs more and doesn't work as well, than you would just buckling down and using that stuff, and cleaning up the mess afterwards.

Someone posted this flame retardant spray in another thread. Most of my wood enclosure is already covered with components, but if I was doing it over, I'd spray all the wood down with this stuff before installing anything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M8G39E

 

[AC/DC]

Just use concrete hardi backer, with plywood behind it. You'll spend 10x more time looking for another product that costs more and doesn't work as well, than you would just buckling down and using that stuff, and cleaning up the mess afterwards.

My only issue with concrete board is drilling into it, as I'm semi-asthmatic. I guess wearing a respirator would work, but there's post-drilling cleanup to deal with too that I'm not too excited about.

Someone posted this flame retardant spray in another thread. Most of my wood enclosure is already covered with components, but if I was doing it over, I'd spray all the wood down with this stuff before installing anything.

Wonder how well that works. After @Bluedog225's suggestion, I also found this intumescent paint, wonder which one is better (there is a substantial 4x price difference, but it's not the end of the world).

I put aluminum diamond plate over ply. Diamonds against plywood. The giant heatsink really helped lower temps around my chargers.

Interesting option, is it easy to drill into/thru?

 

[OM617YOTA]

My only issue with concrete board is drilling into it, as I'm semi-asthmatic. I guess wearing a respirator would work, but there's post-drilling cleanup to deal with too that I'm not too excited about.

I've not personally drilled into hardi backer, just use construction screws that poke through it and screw into the plywood behind it. Tiny bit of powder falls to the floor beneath the hole, more like sand, and easily wiped up with a wet cloth in 3 seconds. You're not filling the entire room with billowing suspended particles, don't snort it off the floor and you'll be fine.

Installing drywall anchors makes more mess and has much more material suspended in the air, so if you can hang a picture without issue, this will bother you even less.

 

[G8trwood]

My only issue with concrete board is drilling into it, as I'm semi-asthmatic. I guess wearing a respirator would work, but there's post-drilling cleanup to deal with too that I'm not too excited about.


Wonder how well that works. After @Bluedog225's suggestion, I also found this intumescent paint, wonder which one is better (there is a substantial 4x price difference, but it's not the end of the world).


Interesting option, is it easy to drill into/thru?

Not much different than plywood. Small pilot holes and #10 or #12 screws. If drilling larger hole, hole saws don’t really care about 1/16or 1/8 aluminum. It really made a difference on the heat around the phoenix 120-12-50 charger

 

[AC/DC]

I've not personally drilled into hardi backer, just use construction screws that poke through it and screw into the plywood behind it. Tiny bit of powder falls to the floor beneath the hole, more like sand, and easily wiped up with a wet cloth in 3 seconds. You're not filling the entire room with billowing suspended particles, don't snort it off the floor and you'll be fine.

Got it, I saw the Hardie Backer-specific screws, so just screw those directly in then? Sounds good!

I also ordered that NO BURN spray, will see how it works, if it does it would save a step.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Definitely put the hardi backer over plywood, the hardi backer itself has no holding power on it's own.

 

[rustythorn]

i was considering plywood with a fire resistant paint, but now i'm looking at pegboard. something around the 300 lbs load capacity. either power-coated steel or ABS. the steel would be fire proof and the coating would offer some electrical insulation [ie arc protection]. ABS would not be fire proof but it would be easier to work with and cheaper. i think the weight of suitable pegboard is close to the weight of suitable plywood, but the pegboard would be thinner. if you allow for space behind the pegboard for increased air flow then about same thickness as the wood or thicker for more air flow.

another poster suggested perforated steel. that might also work if thick enough and given a good electrically insulating coating.

while concrete board might be the best solution for a stationary situation i would not like to deal with its weight, thickness or fragile nature in a mobile setup

 

[HRTKD]

while concrete board might be the best solution for a stationary situation i would not like to deal with its weight, thickness or fragile nature in a mobile setup

I'm using the Hardie Backer Board for the underside of the lid on my component/battery compartment. The top of the lid is Luan, a bit thicker than 1/4". To prevent concrete dust, I painted the backer board. So far, it's done OK after about 3,000 miles.

I'm looking at replacing the siding on one side of my house. I learned that the James Hardie company requires their lap siding to be secured every 8". Since the wall studs are every 16" the installer has to first put on OBX so the siding has something to attach to.

 

[corn18]

I used this stuff behind my DC stuff. No idea if it works and hope I never find out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HQ2B2N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[G8trwood]

So was my aluminum diamond plate a bad idea
?

 

[HRTKD]

So was my aluminum diamond plate a bad idea
?

Only in that it's conductive. If it's thin, then it may not have much holding ability.

 

[Nobodybusiness]

I have seen plenty of builds where the entire charger, shunt, breakers, inverters, etc are laid out on a piece of plywood. Probably ok but I really would rather attach everything to a non combustible non conducting backer board. Any suggestions on what to use? I’ve seen some of the pros using a black plastic looking board but can’t find anything describing.

thanks

Hardiboard or you can go with regular Plywood and some type of intumescent paint.

 

[OM617YOTA]

I like the idea of steel, pop in a nutsert where ever I want to mount something.

I'd probably do cement board backed with plywood again, though. Rather have the mounting surface be non conductive.

 

[HRTKD]

Just a thought, but wouldn't a steel "board" make the wire runs easier for equipment that needs a ground? 2" of wire to ground it.